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True Story
Joined: 03 Nov 2003 Posts: 194 City/Region: Snoqualmie
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: True Story
Photos: True Story
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Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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Does anyone know if the footprint of the new V700 is the same or similar as the Sprint 600? I'm thinking about switching windlasses as my 600 has quit operating and I'm hoping I could remove and replace without a bunch of work retrofitting the deck cut outs. Thanks, Tim |
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Sea Wolf
Joined: 01 Nov 2003 Posts: 8650 City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
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Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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True Story wrote: | Does anyone know if the footprint of the new V700 is the same or similar as the Sprint 600? I'm thinking about switching windlasses as my 600 has quit operating and I'm hoping I could remove and replace without a bunch of work retrofitting the deck cut outs. Thanks, Tim |
Tim-
I'd suggest you call the technical representative at Lewmar to answer this question, unless someone here can answer it.
We really don't hear a lot of negative feedback on these Lewmar windlass products.
If the new V700 footprint is different, there are still a lot of new Sprint 600's available, especially on ebay.
Hopefully, you can fix the one you've got up OK.
Joe. _________________ Sea Wolf, C-Brat #31
Lake Shasta, California
"Most of my money I spent on boats and women. The rest I squandered'. " -Annonymous |
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True Story
Joined: 03 Nov 2003 Posts: 194 City/Region: Snoqualmie
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: True Story
Photos: True Story
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Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 1:50 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for your response Joe. Les and I finally hooked up and he's trying to contact the Lewmar rep. He indicated the Sprint 600 has been a reliable unit. Tim |
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C-Change
Joined: 19 Nov 2006 Posts: 106 City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Change
Photos: C-Change
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Posted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 10:29 pm Post subject: |
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Sprint 600 disaster.....
The last time we anchored out, I had a lot of trouble bringing in the anchor rode. The windlass seemed bogged down when retrieving even though the batteries were fully charged and there was no stress on the line. A couple of days ago while in our slip, I decided to give it another try. The rode went out with no problem at full speed. One I had a pile of chain and line on the dock, I tried to retrieve and same problem - the motor sounded like it was laboring and this time the battery charger was plugged in and the batteries were fully charged.
I finally decided to remove the windlass to see if I could figure out the problem... Well... once I got it home and took the gearcase off ,the problem became obvious.... It looked like a mess in there! Obviously water had entered the gearcase and corroded the geartrain and the bearings. The bearing for the main shaft was completely rusted and frozen. Actually, most everything was rusted and frozen. Well to make a long story shorter. It looks like the seal on the main shaft was never installed... water came in under the gypsy and rolled right into the bearing and into the gearcase.
Monday, I'll call the Lewmar rep in Seattle and see if he is willing to help. I purchased the boat used so I am not sure if they will repair it. Hopefully I can at least get some new parts. If not, has anyone tried the V700? I have seen a couple on ebay new for under $600.
Jan
C-Change |
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mikeporterinmd
Joined: 15 Sep 2006 Posts: 645
State or Province: MD
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Shelly IV
Photos: Shelly-IV
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Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:03 am Post subject: |
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Well, I finally got the Maxwell Freedom 500. Looks like a very substantial
unit, but I have not handled that many windlasses...
So, what I didn't realize fully is that the motor for this unit is horizontal,
even though it is a "vertical" windlass. Has anyone installed one of these
on a CD-22? Have any problems getting it to fit? Did you just let the
motor extend a bit into the V-berth? I haven't been down to the boat
since I picked up the windlass, so perhaps there won't be a problem.
Installation of the windlass itself looks fairly straightforward. However,
there is a decent sized relay box, an 80 amp breaker plus the
control itself to find room for. If you have installed one of these, I'd
appreciate hearing your experiences. Perhaps I'll install the control
on a bracket under the walkaround, forward of the throttle... something
like that. Or perhaps such that I can manipulate the throttle and
the switch at the same time... that might be nice.
Maxwell calls for '3' gauge wire - I think 4 should be fine. Thoughts?
I know many windlasses in this size range are wired with 8 gauge,
but I've always thought that was a bit light.
Thanks,
Mike |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 20814 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 6:12 pm Post subject: |
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The Maxwell is a vertical axis windlass. I have owned several maxwells and they have given excellent service. I think you have to live with the motor in the V berth area--probably will do will, since you will get little moisture in there. You might want to use some of the foam which covers water pipes in the winter over the chain to keep out water (actually works well on all windlasses)>
Regards,
Bob _________________ Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL |
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Sea Wolf
Joined: 01 Nov 2003 Posts: 8650 City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
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Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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mikeporterinmd wrote: | Well, I finally got the Maxwell Freedom 500. Looks like a very substantial
unit, but I have not handled that many windlasses...
So, what I didn't realize fully is that the motor for this unit is horizontal,
even though it is a "vertical" windlass. Has anyone installed one of these
on a CD-22? Have any problems getting it to fit? Did you just let the
motor extend a bit into the V-berth? I haven't been down to the boat
since I picked up the windlass, so perhaps there won't be a problem.
The windlasses of this type susually have a flange on the drive unit and motor which allow the motor to be installed in any of four ways under the gypsy and drive housing. I was able to install my Quick Aires with the motor juting forward into the bow, and not back into the V-berth.
Installation of the windlass itself looks fairly straightforward. However,
there is a decent sized relay box, an 80 amp breaker plus the
control itself to find room for. If you have installed one of these, I'd
appreciate hearing your experiences. Perhaps I'll install the control
on a bracket under the walkaround, forward of the throttle... something
like that. Or perhaps such that I can manipulate the throttle and
the switch at the same time... that might be nice.
I placed all these components on the port side of the helm station along side the steering wheel. The components are actually mounted on the back side of the dashboard, and the up/down switch and (in some models) circuit breaker protrude into the helfm station from behind.
Maxwell calls for '3' gauge wire - I think 4 should be fine. Thoughts?
I know many windlasses in this size range are wired with 8 gauge,
but I've always thought that was a bit light.
I used 6 gauge, and it is fine, although I have two additional batteries under the forward port dinette seat that ease the distance/load somewhat. 4 Ga. should be fine.
Thanks,
Mike |
Motor can be mounted facing any of four ways on most windlasses like this.
Joe. |
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Forty Two
Joined: 16 Nov 2004 Posts: 114 City/Region: Prince William Sound
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2017
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Black Cat
Photos: Barrel O Monkeys
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Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 3:13 am Post subject: |
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mikeporterinmd wrote: | Well, we should end up with a Maxwell Freedom 500. It was 'buy it now
for $800 or make an offer' on Ebay. I made an offer and they accepted it. It
was installed on a boat, but either never used or lightly used. I'll know
in a day or two or four!
(item 170094637271)
I saw one of these work on a friend's boat - very fast. Have to see
if it will work with the anchor road we have or if I need to switch
to 8-plait. He had 8-plait (braid) on his boat, and Maxwell generally
recommends this line.
How does one connect chain to 8-plait? Learn or find someone to
do it?
Mike |
Mike: I recently installed the Maxwell 500 with 3 strand nylon rope.
It works fine. _________________ John & Susan |
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mikeporterinmd
Joined: 15 Sep 2006 Posts: 645
State or Province: MD
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Shelly IV
Photos: Shelly-IV
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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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4 gauge Ancor brand on E-Bay @ $1.68/ft, with at cost UPS ground shipping...!
That is going to save me some money. Ordered yellow...in the past,
I've always forgotten to buy that and end up with black.
Mike |
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Sea Wolf
Joined: 01 Nov 2003 Posts: 8650 City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 12:43 am Post subject: |
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Mike-
Most windlasses with combination rope/chain gypsies are designed to use 3-strand nylon rope, usually 1/2" for the windlasses used in boats the size of C-Dorys.
There are some variations in three strand nylon rope, two of them being the tightness or firmness of the braid, and the second being the stiffness of the rope, which is the resistance to bending.
Most windlasses seem to work better with a firm, moderately stiff rope. A rope that is too soft and easy to bend can jam in the windlass, particularly where it exits the gypsy and drops down into the rode locker. A stiffer and firmer rope tends to mind it's own business and pass through the system will less tendency to bunch up and jam the mechanism.
The stiffer rope also has less of a tendency to loop around itself and invent funny knots as it lands down in the rode locker.
One such stiff and firm rope that I can recommend is the New England Ropes Premium Anchor Rope offered by West Marine. I'm sure there are others, you might check them out and see how they compare.
How do I know this? Three rodes later I can say I speak from experience and say "I've been down that rode."
Just MHO and $0.02.
Joe.
Last edited by Sea Wolf on Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:40 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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mikeporterinmd
Joined: 15 Sep 2006 Posts: 645
State or Province: MD
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Shelly IV
Photos: Shelly-IV
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:47 am Post subject: |
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Sea Wolf wrote: | Mike-
One such stiff and firm rope that I can recommend is the New England Ropes Premium Anchor Rope offered by West Marine. I'm sure there are others, you might check them out and see how they compare.
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I'm almost certain this is what I have on the boat now. I know I didn't
buy a particularly cheap one. It came in a nylon carry bag (I have
no idea why), so I just have to find that bag and then I'll know
who made the line! I think I used the bag to hold the stern anchor line.
Mike |
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The Fran Sea
Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 105 City/Region: St Petersburg FL
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: The Fran Sea
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Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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Lewmar Pro700 vs Lewmar Pro-Fish 700FF
I plan on putting an automatic windless on my 22' C-Dory and can't decide between the manuel and auto Free Fall unit. Has anyone had any experience with the Free Fall?? Is it possible to lower the line on the FF manually or is it alway FF? Here in Tampa Bay where the waters not deep, manual would work OK, but when we fish offshore in 100' plus, seems a free fall would be nice.
Let me have some input on your experience with both units... and any other useful suggestions..... Thanks
PS... I think I accidently started a new thread on this also
_________________ _________________ Roger on the
"The Fran Sea" |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 20814 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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Roger I have both--the 700 on the TC and the 700Pro on the CD 25--got it by mistake--not sure if mine or the internet seller. The pro can be used manual power down, as well as free fall. You have to do the change over at the windlass. Works fine. You are more likely to use the free fall in fishing situations where you want the anchor down fast....For most of my cruising in shallow water, power down is fine. |
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mikeporterinmd
Joined: 15 Sep 2006 Posts: 645
State or Province: MD
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Shelly IV
Photos: Shelly-IV
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Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:03 pm Post subject: |
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I'm pretty sure the Freedom 500 can have its clutch released at the windlass
for freefall. If you are interested, I'll find the manual. I haven't pulled the
boat out since I got the windlass, so aside from making sure it basically
works, I haven't started on this project.
Mike |
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The Fran Sea
Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 105 City/Region: St Petersburg FL
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: The Fran Sea
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Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 11:03 am Post subject: |
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Thanks all for the input
I've decided on the Pro-Fish 700FF.
Confirmed that it can be switched between FF and manual, and that's the issue. Also note on their literature that the say that the Pro 700 has 100% stainless steel CASE and the Pro-Fish 700FF IS ALL 100% stainless steel. Don't know if that's advertising gobbly gook or if there's a message there. |
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