Anchor rode length?

[jlastofka]

I've looked through the posts and didn't find a discussion of what lengths of lines people are really deploying. The books say with a 7:1 scope you get almost 100% of the anchor's holding power. Obviously this assumes something about the bottom. If you hook onto something substantial (well-shaped rock, cable, sunken ship) you could use a lot less scope.... In sand or mud, the scope would be more important.

In crowded anchorages and protected water, we normally use something like 3:1 here in Southern California. Even less sometimes.

What do people find they can normally use? I'm thinking a Fortress FX-16 (big aluminum danforth) and 20' 1/4" chain and 300' 1/2" line with a windlass on the 22 cruiser I'm getting in a week or so. I have some other anchors lying around, up to a 35lb CQR, but I think I'll try the FX-16 first, because I have it handy and it only weighs 10 lbs.

If I anchor off Catalina Island, it's going to be in about 100' of water, so anything over 3:1 is going to be a LOT of line.

(Maybe I'll decide to actually try the 35lb CQR. That ought to hold.)

Anyway, what do you find is a reasonable length to actually deploy if you're not in a hurricane?......

Jeff

[C-Hawk]

Jeff,

I use a 16# bruce with 40' chain and 200' rode. I rode out a nasty night at Little Scorpian on Santa Cruz Island a couple years ago- the anchor held great.

[Dora~Jean]

I have a 25 so slightly different than your requirements. I have a 22lb Delta anchor with 30 ft of 5/16+ chain and 280 ft of rode. Works well for me in all conditons and bottoms I've encountered so far, more chain is always better but have to consider the extra weight on board. The general rule of thumb is chain = length of boat or more.

To reduce scope in good (calm) conditions, first set the anchor at 5 to 1 or greater, then reduce scope to 3 or 4 to 1. But under reduced scope I wouldn't leave the boat or sleep overnight in that configuration.

And remember your anchoring depth must include the height above water where your rode attaches.

[Sea Wolf]

[drjohn71a]

Jeff,

While the TomCat has more wind and sea working against the anchor than your CD22, here are some more thoughts:

As Joe said, it's always good to have a monster anchor stowed away for heavy seas, winds, etc.. Sometimes I put both out to reduce the swing. Sometimes, when I'm nervous about sleeping, I'll just haul out the monster anchor so I can relax.

My TomCat came with a fairly small, to my eye, Delta Fastset on the windlass. It can drag fairly easily if not set hard at the start, and can be pulled out by a sharp wind change, esp. on a 1 to 3 ratio in soft bottom.

My killer, monster anchor is a 22 pound Danforth that I used to use on my previous houseboat. I have 10 foot of chain and 200 foot of rope on that one. (most of our anchorages are about 20-25 foot).

I'd advise having a rope and chain mounted on the heavier 2nd anchor. Sometimes you need it quick.

John

[Doryman]

[Larry H]

It's not a good idea to 'throw' a danforth over the side. The anchor will 'fly' or 'plane' thru the water and can wind up somewhere you don't want or can foul the chain as the chain can sink faster than the anchor.

It's best to lower the anchor till it touches the bottom. Then start backing the boat and pay out the rode. When the pre-chosen length of rode is reached, cleat it off and idle or coast backwards till the anchor sets and the rode comes up tight.

I always apply a little throttle in reverse to ensure that the anchor is set.

[drjohn71a]

Well, let me see... If the weather/water is rough,then the primary anchor line from the windlass ought to be tied off to that bow cleat.

For two anchors, first you set the windlass anchor so that, when you're all done, you'll have 45-60 angles of pull on each anchor. The higher the degree of pull up to 90, the stronger the combined setup.

Then you slowly putt around, using the first anchor line like a 'radius' drawing tool until your spot to drop the second anchor comes up. A line between the two anchors will end up perpendicular to where your boat will finally be.

Drop the second anchor carefully by hand and back off on it pulling close to the final angle of pull. I usuallly aim for 60 degrees from each anchor. When you are done, your boat should be offset about half way between the two anchors, perpendicular to a line drawn between the two anchors.

Many times, I 'd just pull up the smaller anchor and drop and set the heavy anchor. That works fine except on poor bottoms and massive wind/wave action.


Also, as a note for general TomCat anchoring, to minimize the hull slapping at anchor, you can drop and set the windlassed anchor, then loop a line around that anchor line and tie it back to the port or starboard forward cleat and pull it until main anchor line leads out at about 45 degrees. The boat will still sail and slap a bit, but it can only sail short runs in one direction and won't keep sailing up one way, turning the other way and sailin that way. Two anchors is the best setup to stop sailing at anchor.

I almost never tie an anchor up to any where but the bow cleat.
John

[El and Bill]

We use a slightly oversized Bruce, 20' chain, and 200 feet of line -- haven't pulled out yet. In Alaska and British Columbia, we use 300' of line. We have the fortress as our backup -- a great light-weight anchor. Swinging on the Bruce as we answer your inquiry.

[drjohn71a]

Warren...

I now see that I didn't fully address your question as to how to handle the auxillary anchor rode as it goes from the bow cleat to the water.

I run it between the railing posts. You could make a harness to hold it in between to vertical railing posts. On my other boats, I had bow chocks to run the rope thru to prevent chafing against the fiberglass. I've not had two anchors out for long lately. One could wrap some chafing gear, leathers, carpet, but probably a good set of chocks installed would be a good idea.


You may have already noticed in stormy weather anchorages that, with the currently supplied bow roller and winch setup, the anchor rode easily jumps out of the roller and ends up rubbing on the fiberglass. So, we probably ought to do something to better contain the anchor rode as it leaves the bow.

John

[drjohn71a]

Oh.... and to answer jlovstacka... s question...

I don't like to sleep on less than a 6 to 1 rode to depth ratio. 10 to 1 is the most relaxing. I do know you can get by on less... OK if you're awake fishing and/or watching, but oh boy can you wake up to some surprises if anchored on short ratios!

John

[drjohn71a]

Best answer is for you to get either the Chapman's Seamanship book and/or the U.S. Coast Guard's Seamanship manual. They are filled with highly detailed info just like this and you can browse all winter long... and learn.

John

[Dreamer]

If you just can't get enough information on anchoring, Earl R. Hinz has written "The Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring". At 300 pages, it provides more information than most people want!

Dreamer-22 lb. Delta Fastset, 50' 1/4" Chain, 250' 1/2" Nylon Rode. Works for us.

[drjohn71a]

Of course, the local power squadron courses are the best way to learn your own area.

John

[colobear]

I agree with Dreamer about the "Complete Book of Anchoring", I've read it twice (skipping a few parts) and have gained a lot.