trailer bunks`

[therrick]

I recently acquired a 22' Classic on an EZ Loader trailer. I removed an after-market roller under the transom because the boat didn't sit flush on the bunks. It was supported by the roller, the front edge of the bunks, and a keel roller up front. I thought it would be better to support the boat evenly on the bunks. And now I find that the bunks are crowned and the boat doesn't sit flat on them and the transom is not directly supported.

It seems to me that the bunks should be dead flat. Is that right? I can take them off and re-mill the lumber to dead flat, but before I do I'd like to hear from folks who know how this trailer is supposed to work.

[Sneaks]

Dunno about EZLoader but my Pacific (and every previous bunk type trailer I've owned) had dead flat bunkers.

Don

[ffheap]

Hi folks,

I have a 22' Classic with an EasyLoader Trailer. Here is what happened, and what I have done, and what I have left to do.

The roller on the back fell off some way between Hingham and Hull (about 5 miles ) because it was rusted through. It never worked. I never saw the roller again.

Last summer I had the bunks replaced and lengthened so there is about a foot of bunk showing at the stern. I replaced the "rug" with plastic bunk tops so the boat would slide off easier. Good move.

I noticed that the old bunks were shaven off a bit on the back top. So when I checked under the boat I found that the boat bottom has a slight camber to it. Whether this was put there by the builder or because the stern end of the boat was hanging over the end of the old bunks unsupported, I do not know. ( I use to block the stern up during winter storage. ) I know that dory hulls, especially the newer C-Dory's have a camber to them.

What I plan on doing some time in the future is to , first, make sure that the weight is distributed properly. I do not think there is a problem, but the 4 stroke Yamaha is a lot heavier than the 2 stroke Johnson. I also have to take into consideration that the roller weighed a lot.

After that is done, I am going to cut the bunks at the stern, and shave the end top so the whole boat sits on the full length of the bunk.

Don't try to call C-dory or EasyLoader about the problems. There wasn't a person who works for either who remembers the rollers.

Good luck,

Fred

[ffheap]

I forgot to say, welcome to the 22' classic C-Dory group. Would love to see what you have done to your boat to make it better?

Fred

[therrick]

Yeah, I talked to the EZ Loader folks and they were certain that the roller was an aftermarket item. They way it was installed looked more like it was designed and installed by the manufacturer; it didn't have that tacked-on, make-it-work look to it. Sounds like I need to do some de-rustification and greasing. Maybe I can find some new rubber to re-face the roller.

After spending quite a bit of time under the trailer yesterday - replacing the completely rusted-out surge brake system - it occurred to me that the bunks were bowed because the boat was resting on their front edges for years. So before I re-mill them I'll wait for them to stabilize in their new and improved position under the boat's weight. I still can't figure out though why the roller was 2.5-inches higher than the rear end of the bunks. When all is reset it seems that the roller and bunks should be on the same plane for optimum support. Sound right?

Thanks,

Tom

[ffheap]

Hi,

That was the same story I got, that the rollers were added. But with my boat also having rollers, I think that could not be true. My roller, before it fell off was also slightly higher than the bunks.

Another thought. With the bunks, one can jack up one side to paint the bottom. If you have the carpets, make sure that you tape wax paper to the top of the bunks before dropping the boat back after painting.. If you do not, the boat STICKS to the bunks and won't slide off. Remember, bunks were for lighter boats than ours. Even with the plastic bunk covers, you have to push hard to get the boat off. It is much easier than the carpet bunks.

Fred

[SENSEI]

I had the same trailer that you have. it had 4x4's for bunks
and the full width roller on the ass end. I had a lot of trouble with the roller and also the trailer didn't have brakes. I bought a King bunk trailer with tandem axel and I think it was the wisest choice for me.
Wa State requires that you have brakes on any axel when the weight exceeds 3000 #

[therrick]

Fred,

I've got the roller spindles polished up, greased, and spinning well in the brackets. The roller is de-rusted and repainted, but the rubber will have to suffice for a while with a re-conditioner. Spins well and freely. Now, the bunks. You said that your bunks were a bit lower than your long-lost roller. Do you remember how much lower and why?

Common sense tells me that the roller and bunks should be on the same plane; the roller just easing the way as the bow and running strakes come up onto the trailer. But, I'm new to this and sometimes what seems obvious, isn't.

Roger,

Brakes are underway. The old ones were a rusty mess. New master cylinder, brake line, and brake assemblies with a fresh-water wash ought to make a bit of difference. I've cleaned and greased the actuator housing which hadn't moved in probably ten years. When we land in Port Angeles this summer, we'll have some good brakes that should stand up pretty well in their new environment.

[C-Otter]

I have the roller on my 1985 Classic Easy Loader, came with the boat and still works good today. Fresh water of course. I think it was standred equip. on the early trailers. C-Otter.

[ffheap]

Don't remember what the difference was. It all happened just after I purchased the boat, and before I started measuring things.

Fred

[therrick]

I put the new and improved roller back on and while doing a brake job kept looking up at the bunks and the roller trying to figure out why the discrepancy between them. Seems like they all ought to be supporting the boat all the time. Working on spec-ing out some adjustable supports for the existing bunks to bring them into plane with the roller.

Thanks, Fred, for the input. Lots to understand here...

Tom

[Jack in Alaska]

I purchased my boat new at the factory in 1983. It came with the rear roller, which had a piece of hydraulic hose slipped over it, adjusted to the same hight as the bunk tops. There was a slight taper on the last foot of the bunk tops though. Don't know why as the roller would not let the boat set onthat part. My boat sat on that trailer for 23 yrs. as I day launch only. I guess it was launched approx. 1000 times in salt water and the roller spinned just fine. The rubber covering was all chewed up but was still servicable. I took the carpeting off of the bunks the 1st year and put teflon on top of the bunks. That boat would slip off the trailer if not tied down.
I recently replaced the old trailer with a single axle(6k axle) RoadRunner Trailer made in Canada. A good piece of equip. and the price was right. It has no roller and I extended the bunks so they extend about 8" past the transom so it gives total support.

[ffheap]

Thanks Jack for reviving this track.

Additional problem. Adding the four stroke engine added a lot of weight to the back of the trailer. Result is that she sways all over the place when towed over 50 MPH and a big truck passes. While returning the trailers to the Hudson River during the Erie Canal trip, I parked beside trailers that carry the newer 22' C-Dory's Their wheels were up to three feet farther aft then my wheels. I am going to find a trailer store that knows what to do, and have the wheels moved further aft. I am also going to have surge brakes added if the cost is not to much. The trailer is basically in good shape.

Fred

[Sea Wolf]

Fred-

Wow! Three feet of difference between trailer axle position! It's a wonder you don't have negative (upward) tongue weight! Let us know how much they adjust your rig. Joe.

[flapbreaker]