Factory Installed Battery Charger

Big dave · Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 9:22 pm Post subject: Factory Installed Battery Charger

My boat has a factory installed battery charger Guest 2610.
It is a long story but I had my batteries removed about a month ago, today while looking for a fuse I discovered that there were three wires in a sheath just hanging under the battery's. I traced them back to the factory installed charger, two red ones and one black one.
My guess is that each red one goes to the "+" side of each battery and the black one goes to the jumped "-" that connects the two neg. post together.
As of yet I haven't done anything, but it sure looks like that is where they want to go after I freed them from under the battery's.
Any feed back out there ?
Thank you.
Big Dave.
Raven Dancer.

Bill.Secure · Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 9:59 pm Post subject: You are probably correct but ...

You are probably correct but you should look at the specific manual for your charger. Here's a link

http://www.marinco.com/scpt/ProdPage.php?loadItem=2610A_Guest%20Recreational

The web site was initially rather hard to find. This is for the 2610A. I didn't see a 2610 on a quick look so you might want to dig around a bit. I also know that the manual for my 2007 CD-25 did have some useful wiring diagrams so if you have a manual for your boat, you probably should take a look.

Bill
Edgewater, MD

thataway · Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 10:06 pm Post subject:

Yes, the red (might be a red/orange) wires are to the positive post of each battery. The black wire (or yellow if the boat is using "safe" wiring on the 12 volt system--this is so that a hot 110 wire will not be confused with a negative 12 volt wire).

You need to fuse the red positive wires within 7" of the battery by ABYC standards. I also like to put the same size fuse or breakers between the charger and the battery--within a few inches of the charger. (Many battery chargers have output circuit breakers; if so this is not necessary)

Bill.Secure · Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 10:12 pm Post subject: Fuse size

Bob's post is right on. Be sure and follow the fusing specifications in your manual, they are larger than you might think. My recollection from a brief glance a few minutes ago is 15 amp (despite the fact that the circuits are five amp).

Bill
Edgewater, MD

rogerbum · Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 11:08 pm Post subject:

Just out of interest, who removed and replaced the batteries?

Big dave · Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 11:11 pm Post subject:

Thanks guys !
Bob I do have the circuit breaker set up, there are no fuses on either of the red wires so tomorrow I will put the wires back on the battery's. I'm glad I noticed the wires as the bare ends were all touching under the batterys, who knows what would of happened if I would of plugged in shore power and then flipped the breaker for the charger ! At this point I'm pretty happy I don't have power at my slip !!
Thank you one and all.
Big Dave.
Raven Dancer.

thataway · Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 12:02 am Post subject:

If you want the boat to confirm to ABYC standards, add the second set of fuses--there is nothing protecting the wiring if there is a short between the two wires between the battery charger and the battery. The breaker at the output of the battery charger (that is NOT the breaker on 110 volts which "switches" on the battery charger). You can find in line blade fuses and I agree I would put 15 amp fuses in line.

Big dave · Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 10:23 am Post subject:

Bob are you saying that I should install a 15 AMP fuse on each red wire (+) near the battery ? Right now there is a battery selector switch which I turn to "all" when charging, there is also a large breaker switch next to the selector switch. I'm not sure of the size but when I press the button to check it and the blade pops open, nothing electrical will work. I hope I am making myself clear, the 110 side is protected by a breaker at the helm station.
I guess I don't see where it would hurt to install the two in-line fuses anyway, cheap insurance in my book !
Thanks.
Dave.
Raven Dancer.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 10:57 am Post subject:

Dave-

I can see where this discussion could be confusing, so I'll see if the old teacher in me can explain it somewhat.

The 12 volt circuit breaker on the output side of the charger protects the charger and the wires from a short or overload from the output side of the circuit.

On the other end, the battery has voltage, too, and the extra fuses in the wires within 7" of the terminals are to protect against the battery sending current down the wires and starting a fire from that end.

In other words, since both the charger and the battery have the potential to energize the wires and feed a short from their respective ends, they both must have a fuse or circuit breaker.

Hope this helps!

Joe.

Big dave · Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 11:29 am Post subject:

Sea Wolf so if I'm understanding you I should put the in-line fuses on the "+" wires to protect the charger ?? I don't know but wouldn't the charger have built in protection ?
Thanks for your input.
Dave.

thataway · Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 8:01 pm Post subject:

Joe has it right--I don't know if you battery charger has a circut breaker for protection of the battery charger or not. Some do, some don't.

The large breaker is for the main circuit to the console--I use 60 amp breakers on these, and on the Windlass circuit.

I protect each end of a line which may be hot, and has the potential to short--anywhere there is power.

Bill.Secure

Electricity can come from two places to electrify the positive red wires. It can come from the battery charger, and it can come from the batteries.

The only way to have proper protection is to have fuses (or circuit breakers) at each end of each positive wire. Otherwise a fire can start using electricity from the batteries (if they are not fused) or the battery charger (if it is not fused). Protection is needed at each end.

The fuses provide the protection. The only "internal protection" within the charger is probably diodes, transistors, resistors etc. overheating and burning out. This doesn't prevent fire.

One of the more humorous episodes of my working career was when one of our user divisions bought some garage built PCs to save money. I was supposed to bless them. For some reason I had the case open when I started up the first box (in front of a large audience of high level management who were there to applaud the dollar savings).

The disk controller started smoking, then burst into flames, and it was all we could do to stop the smoke in time to keep the smoke detectors from activating and causing the entire building to be evacuated. Solid state circuit components can burn rather readily.

Bill
Edgewater, MD

Les Lampman · Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 7:36 pm Post subject: