long term outboard storage

[colvosview]

My '87 Johnson 70 hp outboard is cranking along nicely, with no indication of anything deadly about to happen. But I'm aware that things don't last forever, and have been dreading the inevitable repower time. While the idea of a new E-Tec has appeal on several levels, there's not a lot of cash in the boating budget.
So I'm considering buying a slightly newer version of the same motor available at a very good price. It's been well maintained by the mechanic owner and has low hours on a new powerhead. Everything I read about storage has to do with motors that are just sitting over the winter. I need some advice on how to store this motor for as long as several years with minimal adverse effects.
Thanks

[thataway]

We have always fogged our outboards after running the carburator or injectors out of fuel. I sprayed the fogging oil into the intake as the engine was dying--another option is to remove the plugs and rotate the engine by hand as you spray the fogging oil.

I would put in new lower unit lube, and be sure that all of the water was out of the block.

Good luck.

[Sea Wolf]

David S-

Bob has given you some very good advice! I'll see if there's anything I can add.

I'd suggest you use a spray preservatove to coat the engine block and various componentsl with. Boeshield comes to mind. It leaves a wax-like coating to protect what's underneath.

I'd be very sure to store the engine in a dry reasonably warm area with a constant temperature to avoid condensation or "sweating". Years of water condensation on your stored engine would not be good.

I don't know that it would be advisable to fully cut the air off from the motor, but covering it with a breathable cloth or perforated plastic cover would help stabilize the moisture problem and keep things clean.

I'd store the engine upright in an engine mount rather than horizontally. Just makes more sense to me.

If you take the plugs out to spray the fogging oil, also put an anti-sieze compound on the threads.

There are a number of zerk fittings on any outboard motor, and they should be lubricated before storage.

If the prop hasn't been off in awhile, I'd remove it from the shaft and great the prop shaft with good grease and reassemble, getting new grease on the threads as well. Old grease gets dry and hard, and makes prop removal difficult,

I'm assuming this older motor doesn't have fuel injection to deal with, but in either case, I'd change the fuel filters after having run the engine dry to eliminate any water stuck in the filters and to simply get it ready for life after storage.

If it's a four stroke, I'd change the oil and filter and run it for a few minutes before running the fuel out.

If the water pump hasn't been replaced in a while, I'd do it, partly to get it ready for life after storage, but also to remove and replace the lower end bolts and screws that tend to sieze up from corrosion over time. Use anti-sieze again.

Hope this helps!

Joe.

[colvosview]

Thanks for all the good advice. And I'm relieved that so far so one has said that this is a bad idea.