Lets talk hull #'s

[captd]

I have hull # 6 I understand they are up over 25 or 30 by now.

I'm curious if problems are corrected and by what hull number.
My problems........
single hose clamps on through hull fittings and other less important hoses.
1. our sewer dumped into the bilge. One clamp Jambed and left loose.
2. Water tank dumped into bilge. One clamp loose on water line.
3. Under powered battery charger. 5 amps hardly keeps reefer running. Let alone charge batteries.
3. Weep holes to high to drain to keel.
4. To much water to cool turbo taken for cabin heat. Needed a restricter.
5. Bilge hose to close to the exhaust.
6. Wiring a real mess.
7. windlass needs a drop down fairlead.

Now that I have mentioned the problems, I can tell you the dealer, Wefing Marine in East Point , Florida is a dealer you can trust. They have done everything in their power to make our trip to the keys a pleasant one. They took a lot of the stress upon them selves. Bob Guth , owner of hull# 13, Manager of the Royal Palms Yacht Club in Boca Raton. extended his hospitality and made the repairs on the Mis Dee very comfortable. We enjoyed him and the Dock Master, Zack Rice very much.

Ranger Jeff and John Livingston at the factory paved the way for all the repairs and went the extra mile for all the help we received.

Thank you all very much. Next winter, Bahamas here we come............


Darrel & Dee (Captd )

[Bill.Secure]

My 2007 CD-25 has a Guest 5-5-10 charger capable of charging three batteries (despite the fact I have only two). I've yet to figure out the wiring as all three charger outputs appear to be in use. Perhaps it has do do with the battery selection switch. The CD-25 manual is unclear and the color coding scheme on the wires makes tracing difficult.

However, relative to just the refrigerator, unless a tug has only a 12 volt DC (rather than 120 volt AC/ 12 volt DC ) refrigerator, the charger is probably never powering the refrigerator. When on shore power, the refrigerator would be on the 120 volt AC circuit. 12 volt DC power would still be required while at the dock for other circuits such as lights, etc..

This doesn't necessarily mean the charger is adequate, but it may be a wiring dependent issue since, in theory, there are 20 amps available (assuming its the 5-5-10 Guest charger). If this is the charger being used, the key is how those 20 amps are being distributed.


Bill
Edgewater, MD

[Sea Wolf]

[C-Sick]

I have hull #31 and it is due to begin on May 1 and be completed the 3rd week in May.

I talked to Jeff yesterday and we discussed some of the issues that have surfaced.

He is all about addressing them in a reasonable manner.

Quality improvement continues as new owners report in.

I don't doubt there will continue to be new issues that surface. It is just great to know we are working with a company that values customer feedback and is willing to make changes.

Let's hear from some more owners as to how these Tugs are tugging.

PS Know anybody that is looking for a 22 Cruiser send them my way.

[Island Ranger]

We're hull number 23.

The wiring at the batteries has been cleaned up. Only one primary wire goes to each battery. The smaller wires are connected via terminal strips mounted on the sides.

I didn't check if the hoses are double clamped. Will do next time I get down to the boat. They did add a support block under the fitting so it wouldn't be damaged if you jumped on it. (John says he jumped on it without the block and it was fine, but I'm glad they added the block.)

The charger (110v) charges each battery - 5/5/10 - and I believe is connected to the 3 circuits - 1 (thurster), 1 (engine starting and 2(house) batteries. Our Yanmar engine has a 80 amp charger which really recharges the batteries. We can jump the house batteries into the starting battery if needed via a switch. That's why we chose not to buy a generator. I can live without 110v while underway....

The fridge runs on 110 when we're plugged in, otherwise it runs on 12v. The water is heater from the engine unless we're plugged in - then it runs on 110v.


I haven't used the windlass yet, but did load 300 ft of 1/2 nylon and 30 ft of 1/4 chain through it when I put it on the boat. It seems to load just fine. What issue did you encounter? Our switch is labeled backwards - up means down and down means up, but Jeff already offered to fix it (if I ever take Island Ranger in)

We are dealing with issues on the autopilot, but we're working on it together.

Alaska - here we come! Leaving June 17th....

Mac
Island Ranger

[SeaSpray]

Hi Mac,

The windlass switch sounds like my Lewmar switch. I think it is a
British thing. Up on the switch is toward the bow or the direction the line runs - out. Down is toward the boat or the direction of the line when it is pulled in.

Seems backwards to me too. Best of luck with the new boat and trip. We will be waiting for pictures.

Steve

[captd]

Question............How many C-Rangers were made before it went to just plain old Ranger Tug. Maybe they will become collector items. Mine was hull #6 and is a C-Ranger. I even have the stickers to prove it. Never have stuck them to the boat. Now I am wondering if my title says C-Ranger or what? I feel like an orphan.
CaptD

[thataway]

I believe that the 21, which has been produced for quite some time--before the current owners came along--was just Ranger 21 tug.