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rogerbum
Joined: 21 Nov 2004 Posts: 2640 City/Region: Kenmore
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SeaDNA
Photos: SeaDNA
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 5:41 pm Post subject: |
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| flagold wrote: | | mikeporterinmd wrote: | | rogerbum wrote: | | flagold wrote: | | I use the aforementioned Fortress, has worked fine for everything but thick embedded grass (tends to float over it) & 7 ft. chain. On the back I carry a 16lb danforth and a 16lb mud anchor. Don't neglect your stern anchor system, it can become your primary anchor quickly in a blow. |
I've always heard that anchoring from the stern is a good way to get one into trouble in anthing but a reasonably protected anchorage. It makes sense to me that I want to be bow towards the wind so I'm having a hard time understanding the above suggesting of being able to quickly employ a stern anchor as the primary in a blow. Am I missing something? |
Depends where you anchor. If everyone else in the cove is using a stern anchor,
then you have to as well, or you will swing into them. We often use a stern
anchor to keep the stern to the beach. Waves almost never come from the
beach. Well, sometimes someone we know walks by, but usually those waves
don't bother the boat. If the wave from the beach is 'pointed', then it is possible
your anchor will soon loose it's set. I've never had that happen.
Mike |
Nailed it. Also useful when anchoring in a tidal stream next to a mangrove island where your boat must not swing and touch the mangroves or a zillion bugs descend on you.
Obviously, you don't stern-to anchor in heavy seas. |
It's the last "obviously" that I was pointing to since the original quote said
| flagold wrote: | | Don't neglect your stern anchor system, it can become your primary anchor quickly in a blow. |
The part about quickly employing an anchor in a blow, could imply to the casual boater that this is the method of choice for rapidly anchoring in developing weather and I simply thought that this should be cleared up. This concern in big waves is not losing the anchor set but rather taking water over the stern in stern anchored boat. This relatively common occurence for people who stern anchor rivers - or for people who on purpose or inadvertently stern anchor in big waves. The only CD that I know of which as swamped occurred when a bow anchor set became entangle in a prop on retrieval and turned into a stern anchor in heavy seas. _________________ Roger on the SeaDNA |
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flagold
Joined: 23 Mar 2004 Posts: 779 City/Region: Hernando Beach
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Dawg-E
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 9:05 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Roger, I sometimes forget everyone hasn't been on the water 40+ years when I toss terms out there, obviously, obvious is different to differnt people with different levels of experience.
Sinking your boat because you threw your anchor out the stern in 20 knots wind, a current swift enough to cause boils in the water, or cresting waves, is one way to gain experience you don't want to gain.
Thanks. _________________ >Film: What's it like to cruise a C-Dory?< |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 6175 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Thataway
Photos: Thataway
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 9:41 pm Post subject: |
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One of the beauties of the 22 is that you can anchor with the stern right on the beach or bank--as long as there is no tide or wave action. We usually anchored stern to the beach in lakes, with two stern anchors and one bow anchor (Danforth/Guardian type, because we were dealing with sand). The Pet step makes a great gangplank for both the dogs and us.--keeps sand out of the boat.
A 25 foot boat was swamped and people lost a couple of years ago when they anchored in the Gulf of Mexico by the stern. It doesn't take a lot of wave action to bring seas into the boat when anchored stern too. One of the risks of a transom door in a boat which has an I/O or engine hatches in the cockpit is swamping the boat from waves from the stern. _________________ Bob Austin
Thataway
TomCat 255 150 Suzukis
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL |
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Dora~Jean
Joined: 09 Mar 2004 Posts: 1227 City/Region: Simi Valley
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Dora~Jean
Photos: Dora~Jean
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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And THAT Bob, is precisely why I sealed off the 4 big access holes at the rear of my cockpit! I've even thought of putting one of those inflatable bouyancy bags in some of the unused space near the engines to add some emergency flotation back there.
Anyone have any idea how much a pair of engines weigh UNDER water? Would shoot for 1/2 in and 1/2 out as a fallback goal. Not that is would happen to ME... _________________ Steve
"Great works are performed not by strength, but perseverance" (Samuel Johnson) |
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flagold
Joined: 23 Mar 2004 Posts: 779 City/Region: Hernando Beach
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Dawg-E
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:20 am Post subject: |
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We've had this discussion before of course, but my thoughts on "the hole":
I am not sure I'd block that opening on a CD-22. It looks odd, but remember, that big hole lets water out too. If you took a wave big enough to fill the stern, with the "hole" blocked off, the cockpit will fill completely (cabin door closed) and the one pump (most cases), two pumps, or three pumps (my case) will have to quickly lighten stern (you won't be able to open the door and bail) or the next wave (from any direction) will re-fill and compound the problem (as the cabin fills). The "hole" will let water out faster than any pump would, down to a level pumps (you're just shot with one pump) would have a chance to get it out before being completely swamped. My case: with all the pumps immersed, I would have 3,000 gph pumping capacity (still not enough in my opinion -- 3600 would be optimal (to me) which means I could lighten by 50 gallons per minute, or more important: 25 gallons per 30 seconds, 12.5 per 15 seconds, or 6.25 gallons per 7 seconds which is a common wave period. Check the math, I'm not good with it -- if it's wrong I'll respond by installing a couple more pumps . . . By getting the gallonage, you can eventually come right down to how much weight you are removing per second from the boat if the worst hits and it's good to know what that number would be before the event (encourages a person to add another pump at the minimum). |
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Alasgun Guest
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 12:09 pm Post subject: Choice of Anchor |
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This plugging the hole thing needs some clarification. Dora Jean is talking about the cable openings in the rear of a 25ftr that lead from the cockpit floor to the bilge beneath. NOT the cut out in the transom. Older boats like our's could let a ton of water down below, through these substancial openings.
On the anchor thing, I would trust the advice of folks in your intended cruising area. None of the Anchors will be a best fit in all locations!
Mike on Huda Thunkit |
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spiker
Joined: 22 Feb 2007 Posts: 8 City/Region: wading river
State or Province: NY
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Celtic - C
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 12:39 pm Post subject: what type of anchor? |
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Thanks again to everyone for all your advice!!! This website is GREAT!!!!
I think I am going to go with the Delta 14, and keep my Fortress as a back up. Thanks,
Spiker |
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flagold
Joined: 23 Mar 2004 Posts: 779 City/Region: Hernando Beach
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Dawg-E
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 1:37 pm Post subject: Re: Choice of Anchor |
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| Alasgun wrote: | This plugging the hole thing needs some clarification. Dora Jean is talking about the cable openings in the rear of a 25ftr that lead from the cockpit floor to the bilge beneath. NOT the cut out in the transom. Older boats like our's could let a ton of water down below, through these substancial openings.
On the anchor thing, I would trust the advice of folks in your intended cruising area. None of the Anchors will be a best fit in all locations!
Mike on Huda Thunkit |
Got it, I thought we were back to the original discussion again (cut-out).
True with the anchors. One of the most useful things I've found is one of the small folding achors and a light line. I can throw that thing underhanded like a bullet and position the stern in whatever direction I choose (and then drop as substantial hook). |
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timflan
Joined: 16 May 2006 Posts: 397 City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Two Lucky Fish
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:41 pm Post subject: Re: what type of anchor? |
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| spiker wrote: | | I think I am going to go with the Delta 14, and keep my Fortress as a back up. | I'm a new C-Dory owner, so I don't claim any special wisdom about these boats in particular, but I did do a good deal of anchor research about ten years ago, and the conclusion I arrived at was Delta up front, Fortress aft (or down below). It sounds like you've come to the same conclusion I did.
Now (and only because it's sometimes fun to throw a wooden shoe into the machinery), have you looked at the Rocna? The inventor makes something of a nuisance of himself in various long-range cruising (sailing) forums, and he must edit the Wikipedia article on "anchor" once a week to keep his product prominent there. EVEN THOUGH he's a bit aggressive in his online promotion efforts, I have to admit that I am very interested in his anchor. The videos on his site are pretty convincing. It's made me want to check out all the new spade-derived anchors, in fact. Take a look: http://rocna.com/home.php?region=na _________________ Timothy R. R. Flanagan
Managing Editor, Navagear
Publisher, Puget Sound Maritime |
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journey on
Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 1276 City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 11:06 pm Post subject: |
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We used a CQR for years whilst cruising. Only failed us twice:
Off Rattlesnake Key, where the waves were just enough to make the anchor act like a plough (which it is,) while we slept through. Luck had us anchor about a mile out, and we were nearly on shore in the morn. Obviously the waves weren't enough to disturb our sleep.
And in the Chesapeake Bay, where a front got it to plough through the mud. Had to reset it a couple of times.
Note that the Delta and Lewmar Plow are also plow shaped. Other than pulling in soft bottom, great anchors. The Bruce on Journey On has not pulled through mud or sand, but it hasn't been really tested (thank God.)
I notice a lot of C-Brats have mentioned new anchor configurations. Has anybody ever bought and used any? I thought I'd stick with the common varieties of anchor.
The southern Boris |
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Not For Hire
Joined: 20 May 2004 Posts: 304 City/Region: Cadillac, MI
State or Province: MI
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Not For Hire
Photos: Not For Hire
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 8:28 am Post subject: |
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A few months? ago there was a poll on this topic. Bruce type was on more C-Dories than any other type, and Brats had them in the 5, 7.5 and 10 kg sizes on their 22s. Even the owners with the eleven pounders said they held great. That doesn't make it better or worse, just popular. I have a Bruce type 16 1/2 lbs, 20 feet chain, 200 feet 7/16 nylon (lots of spare line on board). The first year I had the boat a had a danforth type on the bow. This was just more awkward towing, docking, launching, etc. Also the Bruce is superb at setting the first time and resetting in a wind shift. I understand that the Delta and some other types are also good at this. I keep the danforth on board as a stern anchor, mud anchor (although the bruce has held just fine in mud), etc. Also carry a heavy mushroom anchor with six feet of really heavy chain as a lunch hook and stern fishing anchor when I need a vertical rode.
The danforth is stowed without line attached. But the chain and line rode I keep in the stern is readily available and I can attach in a hurry with a carabiner. Stowing the anchor with the rode attached took up too much room in one place. (Tip from Nick).
So I like the Bruce because it sets so nice and stays set. Relatively compact on the bow, etc. It can scoop a rock of just the right size but is better by far in rocks than the danforth. In a real heavy blow I would run a sentinel down the line and stick with the bruce.
Regards, Mark _________________ Mark S
Cadillac, Michigan |
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Sea Wolf
Joined: 01 Nov 2003 Posts: 5885 City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 11:40 am Post subject: |
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| Not For Hire wrote: | In a real heavy blow I would run a sentinel down the line and stick with the bruce.
Regards, Mark |
For those who don't know what a "sentinel" or sentinel anchor" is, here's a good explanation and a link to the original "Anchor Tips" article:
"Use of a Sentinel
Another way to get more catenary out of an existing anchor rode—either chain or rope—is the use of a “sentinel” or “kellet” weight. This involves running a heavy weight down the rode to improve or maintain catenary as wind forces increase. It is an effective means of adding weight to the rode. After the anchor is set, the sentinel is typically deployed from the bow of a boat with a light line leading back from the sentinel to the boat for recovery, control, and placement. Some voyagers simply shackle or tie the sentinel to a chain link from the bow of the boat when the anchor first hits bottom and temporarily goes slack and before greater amounts of scope are veered out. Others prefer to slide the sentinel down the anchor chain by using a big shackle placed over the top of the chain with the weight attached to the shackle.
Location of the sentinel on the rode is important. To be most effective the weight should be set somewhere in the first half of the rode (closest to the anchor). The idea is to keep the initial section of rode weighted down as close to the bottom as possible.
How much weight is involved? A rule of thumb is that the weight should be a bit less than one pound for every foot of boat length. For a 40-foot boat, that would mean a sentinel of 30 to 40 pounds.
Use of a sentinel weight should be a standard tactic for the yacht skipper faced with deteriorating weather when at anchor. Others, as already discussed, include veering out more rode, increasing the amount of nylon in a rode, stripping the bow of a boat to move the center of effort aft, use of a small riding sail aft, and reducing windage in general."
Joe. _________________ Sea Wolf, C-Brat #31
Lake Shasta, California
 
"Most of my money I spent on boats and women. The rest I squandered'. " -Annonymous |
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Valkyrie
Joined: 09 Jan 2005 Posts: 792 City/Region: Norton, OH
State or Province: OH
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Valkyrie
Photos: Valkyrie
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 11:46 am Post subject: |
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Good advice Mark and good explanation Joe.
I used a sentinel on my 23 foot sailboat a lot and it makes a big difference when it starts blowing.
I used two 6# diving weights tied together through the belt loops at both ends with paracord. They were then attached to a large, heavy duty snap hook that would slide down the anchor line and retrieved using 1/4" braided line which was kept on a diving line holder, kind of like a spool.
Nick
"Valkyrie" |
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Doryman
Joined: 03 Oct 2006 Posts: 3155 City/Region: Anacortes
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Lori Ann
Photos: Lori Ann
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 12:46 pm Post subject: |
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I have no experience with sentinels so this has been a learning experience for me. Thanks, all. I googled this Anchor Buddy sentinel and wondered if anyone in Brat-land knows anything about it?
Thanks,
Warren _________________ Doryman
M/V Lori Ann
TomCat 255, Hull #55, 150 Yamahas
Anacortes, WA
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 6175 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Thataway
Photos: Thataway
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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We carried a 30 lb lead Kellet (sentinel) with us on several hundred thousand miles of cruising and thousands of nights at anchor and never once used it. When thing are really blowing, you need an adequate sized anchor, and often a second anchor. The question is will a Kellet decrease the "jerking" when there are waves and really increase the holding of a properly set anchor which has enough scope. Our experience is that when the wind gets up to a certain point the rode will be bar tight, even with 3/8" chain. (I have had the opportunity to dive on the rode when in a storm of steady winds of 75 knots and gusts to 87 knots.) The chain was bar tight, and my pulling down would not budge it. My conclusion is that in moderate conditions the Kellet (Sentinel) might be of value to shorten the scope and increase the initial angle, but in severe conditions it probably would add little, and could cause complications if you have to let the line out, pull and reset the anchor, change chafing gear etc.
Earl Hinz in his excellent book on anchoring, only gives it a couple of paragraphs, points it out the potential use in a Bahamia moor to get the lines lower, the use to decrease the circle of swing in a crowded ancorage and also points out the danger the Kellet line fouling the prop.
We always attatch an anchor with a screw shackle and then sieze the pin with either an electrical tie or monel wire. A caribiner may be "OK" for a lunch hook, but there is too much danger of it failing or opening under load. |
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