Looking for Rabbit Ears...

[marvin4239]

I just purchased a new C-Dory 16 with a Honda 50. The dealer installed and aftermarket hose for flushing the engine. It exits the engine the same place the control cables do. He said DEFINITELY DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE WHILE FLUSHING. I know the manual says you can but according to the dealer who seems quite knowledgeable the engine doesn't get adequate water to the pump. My boat is kept in a boat lift so "rabbit ears" aren't and option. I can't remember the name of the stuff (Salt Away?) but as recommended by a friend I've been using and in-line flushing device and this chemical which supposedly dissolves salt. Time will tell as the water I'm in is as salty as it gets. My previous Mercury didn't hold up well at all in the environment.

[Grumpy]

Looks like a classic "he says - she says, and the manual says".
IF I obeyed my manual as Larry H suggests I would be using the flusher plug and running at idle which contradicts what the dealer is telling you.

I tend to agree that using this plug does not get water flow to all the vital parts. Hence I do not use it.

Good point about the back pressure on the exhaust Larry. hadn't thought of that one.
But as I said, I don't advocate doing anything other than idle with Rabbit ears anyway, just said you can, with caution.

I do use the Salt Away stuff though for washdown and occasionally for engine flush. Seems to work well on the boat and windows (wish it would work on my computer) and hopefully it does some good to the trailer. Not sure of the real benefits for the engine as it seems to me that 5 minutes at idle would be more than enough to get any salt off a piece of machinery that was designed to run in salt water. maybe if you live in a hot climate and the motor really dried out before you get to fluch it then there could be salt caked/baked on which might be harde to remove.
Anyone got any facts or figures to compare ? Wonder how long a typical OB would last if the boat is used in salt water and never flushed (except maybe at service intervals).

One thing I would add is that I bought the round ears, and you have to be really careful to fit them for minimum leakage. I think the rectangular ones would fit better to the shape of the intakes.

Perhaps the best solution for us in the PNW is to launch in Lake Washington and drive around to a convenient restaurant once a week. Gets my internal pipes taken care of as well.

Merv

[mikeporterinmd]

[Larry H]

Outboard water pumps, a lesson:

The water pump in the lower unit of an outboard is located near where the lower unit is bolted to the leg.

The water pump is a rubber impeller inside a stainless steel liner in a plastic housing(in the old days it was an aluminium housing). The impeller turns whenever the powerhead turns. In gear or out of gear.

The rubber impeller rubs the inside of the SS liner and if it is dry the impeller will heat up until it melts! The impeller is lubricated by the water inside the pump.

Starting an outboard dry will damage the impeller is as little as 10 seconds. When replacing an impeller, it should be lubricated with a water soluble grease. (Hand cleaner) or 2-cycle oil(doesn't hurt rubber). Avoid using motor oil.

I think the flush plugs located at or near the powerhead inject water above the water pump and flusher muffs (rabbit ears) puts the water into the water pickups (below the water pump) used by the motor when its in the water. The flush plugs were added to the motors so that the motors can be flushed with a hose without running the motor.(in the slip or on the trailer without running the motor and bothering the neighbors)

I am not a Honda expert, so specific Honda advise is best obtained elsewhere.

I hope this info helps owners to not contribute to the "mechanics retirement fund" excessively! LOL

Good boatin' to yah!