Water heater drain

thataway · Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 11:13 pm Post subject: Water heater drain

I notice that the water heater drain (valved--not the high pressure, which goes to the shower sump) in the TC 255 (and I believe in the CD 25) is plumbed thru tubing which passes out of the gunnel well above the top of the water heater. In the past, if in freezing weather, I have drained all water tanks--thru the bottom. It appears impossiable to drain this tank--except maybe with compressed air. Do folks put in non toxic antifreeze? Obiously there woud be a large dilution factor in the 6 gallon tank--
Second how does one get all of the antifreeze out of the tank at the end of the winter? (we will probably not go this route--but when we are gone for a month I don't want to leave the water heater on).

Thanks for any clues on winterizing this specfic water heater.

Sea Skipper · Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 12:47 am Post subject:

The drain line for Sea Skipper's heater is plumbed into the shower sump but this line does rise up a bit higher than the bottom of the heater's internal tank, which prevents complete draining. To finish draining the tank I remove the drain hose from the drain valve (standard garden hose fitting), remove the inlet hose from the tank and blow compressed air through the inlet. No freeze damage last winter.

Discovery · Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 8:53 am Post subject:

Thataway

I drain he water heater by attaching a short garden hose to the drain valve. I run it to the deck drain outlet, and it will let almost all the water drain out. This is after pumping out all the water I can, via the water pump. We have two 20 gallon water tanks. I put 2 or 3 gallons of the pink stuff in each tank, and then pump for a few seconds, from each tank. Be sure to get antifreeze to the shower taps and the toilet. Also don't forget the shower drain sump.

We have already had temps. as low as 15 degrees here in Utah, so I did this a few weeks ago. In total there are 8 pumps on the TC255 that have to be protected.

2 bilge pumps
2 fish box macerator pumps
raw water pump
head macerator pump
shower drain pump
main water pump

I try to circulate some of the pink stuff through all of the pumps

thataway · Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 8:06 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the replies. My high pressure/high temp relief valve is plumbed to the shower drain, but does go up over the bulkhead between the water heater and galley storage. The drain goes up to the gunnel directly--don't know if these were reversed?

We rarely get below 28 degrees--although 34 is predicted for Monday AM.
I will be running a heater in the boat run the water heater when I am home--but I will drain the heater and tank when we are gone--and put in some of the antifreeze.

Undoing the factory drain, and draining the water heater to the transom is certainly the way to do--and the factory installed hose is of no real value.

I wonder about fish box, macerator and bilge pumps. I have never winterized these in our area--and I don't think it is necessary with our moderate temperatures. The raw water washdown pump is out of the water--and I think that the chambers would clear of water by running dry--at least for our area. When I add the second water tank, I will have to protect the line between the port tank and the water pump.

Thanks again.

mikeporterinmd · Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 8:21 pm Post subject:

I've never worried about draining tanks 100%. An inch or so of water in
the bottom doesn't hurt. The tank acts like an ice cube tray. I've never
put anti-freeze in a tank.

To protect the lines, I usually disconnect from the tank, connect a
long hose, drop it in anti-freeze, and then pump anti-freeze through
all the lines.

Mike

thataway · Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 10:20 pm Post subject:

Mike,
Your post brings up some interesting thoughts. The pump in the TC 255 is under the galley storage floor accessed by a about 12" x 18" hatch, about 10" further down into the hull.
The water tank is way foreward--and may be impossiable to reach. But the good news, is that the Flojet pumps use a quick release O ring seal on the input and output. So I could make another hose (with the second set of quick connect fittings I have with the new pump) and use that with a tube to bring antifreeze into the tubing.

Of course in our area, especially with the pilot house, it is boating year around (I was out for a 20 mile run today)--and I only worry when I may be out of town. I like to have the water system ready to use if we decide to go out over night on a moments notice. The only hoses outside of the pilot house are the lines to the shower, and I could back blow them with compressed air.

I guess the other issue, is complete flushing out the lines after use of even "non toxic" antifreeze.

Thanks,