The Catch-22 went to Alaska

[Rooster 27509]

The Catch-22 went to Alaska part 1

Cruising the Alaska Inside Passage for 2000 miles and 42 days.
In a 22-foot C Dory boat.
.Part 1. trip in 2003 starting in July

We live in Antioch Ca. and no, we didn’t make the trip all the way in the boat. We (I) had been talking about making the Inside Passage cruse for quite a long time, and now had a boat I thought could make the trip; a 22 ft C- Dory. After checking with people and getting info about the area, I said to my wife “how are you feeling?” Truth is, none of us will get any younger and most likely will just keep looking older until the undertaker completes his work. Make your trips when you can, who knows what the next day will be.

My first project was to get the boat outfitted for the trip.
Ÿ motor tune up
Ÿ extra batteries
Ÿ extra fuel containers
Ÿ extra lines, leather gloves, fish cleaning station
Ÿ extra anchor
Ÿ install shelves above the stove and table area for storage
Ÿ get our books and other paper work together

We had made a trip to the San Juan Islands last fall, which was only fourteen days we knew this one would take more time. While in the San Juans we picked up an inflatable dinghy with a hard bottom, which we towed behind the boat. From this trip we learned that towing a dinghy was something that slows you down, takes more fuel and can make the going less safe.

The fix for not towing the dinghy was to install a radar arch so we could carry the dinghy on top of the cabin. I had seen this both on the C-Brat site and on other C Dorys in the San Juans. We checked to see about getting one and ended up calling Bolton Stainless. It was Bruce Bolton I talked to and he said on our way to Alaska if we stopped in Vernon, B.C. he would help me install the arch (this is something he can’t do often and I was very blessed to be so lucky) Bruce and part of his crew did the installing of the radar arch the radar, and reworked the bracket which is just forward of the twin 40 Yamahas. The bracket holds my 150-qt. 5-day ice chest. After all this work was done which took one afternoon and part of the next morning Bruce and his lead shop supervisor made a nice bow guard which keeps the Delta anchor from hitting the bow. All of this work was made out of stainless and sure looks and works great. *** Bruce Bolton and his guys at the shop and his wife who picked up a patch kit for our inflatable dinghy are without question some of the most wonderful people you could come across. If you need stainless products for your boat, Bolton Stainless in Vernon, B. C. is the place to have it made.

The Catch-22 went to Alaska part 2

Looks like we are into the trip already, without talking about the other prep work it took just to get on the road. We took things we didn’t use and some things we picked up on the trip. Our next main stop was Prince Rupert where we spent a few days at the city run campground. Prince Rupert is a great town full of great people, but population dwindles every year due to lack of jobs. Our tow vehicle (350 Chevy. truck with 8 ft cab-over camper) was put in storage at the Fast Gas service station storage yard after launching the boat.

Now with all that said we were on our way and everything going good, we saved some time by taking Venn Passage which is fine for a small boat but larger ones should take the long way around. We made good time and were at Dundas Island a little before noon where we were planning to stay the night. The gnats in the anchorage will take only a little bite, but you can anticipate a million little bites if you stay the night. They will eat you alive. With the weather clear, the water flat and the barometer rising we looked at each other. We can make Ketchikan this evening or stay here and feed the gnats - we made Ketchikan about 18:00 hours. We did see one Orca just about five miles out from Ketchikan.

We have been to Ketchikan and the Inside Passage twice before when we had less gray hair, so the tourist stuff wasn’t what we were after on this trip. Ketchikan is a nice place but just a few too many cruse ships coming and going. I hope Prince Rupert will be able to keep the cruse ship business they are now starting up to a smaller scale for the town peoples sake. We were in Ketchikan for the July 4th celebration, we were tied to the float nearest the river. Great showers and laundry are near the top of the ramp; you can get a good coffee at the same place.

From Ketchikan with full main fuel tanks and twenty gallons extra, water and foodstuff we were on our way heading north out of Tongass Narrows across the opening to Behm Canal and past Caamano Pt., up Clarence Strait. We drift around in Union Bay near the entrance of Ernest Sound while having lunch. Our first anchorage was in Vixen Inlet on the west side of Cleveland Peninsula. It was a good night with a touch of rain calm winds and great crabbing. What great water to go for a boat ride.

Part 2.
Now we are heading up Ernest Sound with smiles on our faces and clear skies and calm water, taking our time. TheCatch-22 is carrying quite a load with the extra supplies but when we are going with the flow we make good time ( we are getting about 3 MPG ). We are now about fifty miles out of Ketchikan and pull into Santa Anna Inlet for breakfast. We took time to check out the fur seals and bald eagles in Frosty Bay on our way to Humpback Bay.

At Humpback Bay bald eagles were everyplace. We didn’t hike into the Bear Observatory due to some physical restraints but do understand it is quite something to see. Our next stop is Thoms Place a small cove on the south end of Wrangell Island where we anchored for the night. That next morning we were having our coffee when a man and his grandson pulled up and chatted for a while and gave us a nice sockeye salmon, which we had for lunch. Not much luck with crab here but, that was ok.

The Catch-22 went to Alaska part 3

Pulled up anchor about 09:00 and headed up Zimovia Strait to Wrangell Harbor where we fuelled up the boat but decided not to stay. From Wrangell we cut between Vank and Sokolof Islands and along the lower end of Mitkof Island. Coming around Pt. Alexander we headed up Wrangell Narrows to Petersburg.

About 11:00 we pulled into Petersburg which is a fishing town and a very busy port. We stayed in North Harbor, slip 133. The cannery was running 24 hours per day The showers at the dock were out of order but the laundry just down main street has showers, (the water wasn’t very warm). The guy that takes care of the laundry mat also works at the Yamaha shop just outside of town. He gave us some names of areas we might like to stop at. We liked Petersburg and on the return trip the showers at the dock were working. A hot shower sure feels good after a few days of running about.From Petersburg we went to Le Conte Bay to see the glacier. The ice flow was too thick and we couldn’t get all the way up the bay to the base of the glacier. While in the bay with huge ice flows all around the boat, my wife thought it would make for a great photo if I were to get out onto one of the larger chunks of ice. What a stupid move that was on my part, but did make for a cool photo. We were the only people in the bay at the time and fur seals were lying on the ice, which is very deep glacial blue.
After playing around and enjoying the day we cut back across Frederick Sound to Petersburg where we stayed the night again. The next morning I made the walk to the store and backpacked our supplies down to the boat. A strong backpack is a must for a trip like this and a strong back would be good, too. Some of the stores will deliver to the dock but don’t count on it, most don’t. When you get a chance to buy good ice get it, not everyplace has quality ice.
Now it’s off to Portage Bay (a place the guy at the laundry said to visit) which is north on Frederick Sound just past Cape Strait. Keep your eyes open and you can see a few waterfalls on the way. Just outside Portage Bay we watched a pod of Orcas for quite some time, one of the cows had a calf with her and they stayed in the area of the boat. That was neat! This was a “gorgeous day“, as my wife would say. We stayed the night in Portage Bay and tried some halibut fishing with no luck. We then headed north across Fredrick Sound to Farragut Bay where we stopped to play for a while and have lunch. While here we picked up a few clamshells for the grandkids, the shells are huge.
We are now headed for Point Houghton Bay, and with the water flat and the boat running smooth the First Mate went to the V birth for her nap. While she was sleeping, I thought what the heck and stopped near The Five Fingers Islands and dropped in a small jig for a rockfish for dinner. BAM! The line started out and the bottom came alive. It was small by Alaska standards but a 25 to 30 lb. halibut was a good size fish for me. When I asked the First Mate what she would like for dinner she said “ pork chops “. Before we got to Point Houghton we saw a spout about 200 yards off the starboard side and slowed the boat. With the humpback coming closer to the boat I shut down the engines and had the the time of our live’s watching this guy splash all around the boat. He was all around the boat and at times less than 20 feet from the boat. What a day. Once inside Point Houghton Bay we pulled in what the chart called a channel, but looked like a small bay to me, to anchor for the night. On our way in we saw a small black bear. Salmon were everyplace and you could have filled the boat in no time at all. I got tired of catching fish, and just set back and enjoyed the view. Lots of bald eagles eating fish, something you don’t back home. Another great day. Our next stop will be Juneau. Can things get any better than this?

The Catch-22 went to alaska part 4

Pulling anchor and heading for Juneau, via Stephens Passage past Grand Island and into Gastineau Channel. Great weather just a little overcast but no wind. Arrived in Juneau mid afternoon and pulled into Aurora harbor north of the bridge. The harbor doesn’t have showers & facilities. You will find chemical toilets at the top of the ramp. We stayed for two nights and went into town by taxi. Nice hot showers can be had at a laundry, which is about a mile from where our boat is. The guy next to us lives in Juneau and was down checking his boat. He saw we were from California by the boat registration number and we talked a little about our trip. We gave him some halibut, which he said his wife would just love. He knew we were headed into town for supplies and gave me a ride in and back. It’s people like that, which gives an area a good name.Departed Juneau around noon heading north over the Mendenhall Bar - trust me, you can only make it at high tide. Even with that you can see areas that are dry or very shallow at best. If you don’t take this path you will need to burn up a good amount of fuel back tracking and going back around Pt. Tantallon before swinging north. We pulled into Auke Bay just inside Pt. Louisa where we stayed the night at what seemed to be mostly a transit dock. It has great facilities and you can catch the bus up near the main crossroad a short walk from the dock. We took the bus to the Fred Meyers and bought some thing's we didn’t need. I stopped to talk with a guy and his son who were rigging a davit on his 22 ft. C-Dory to help pull up his crab/shrimp pots. Come to find out he was from the Alameda Ca. area and had bought his boat at the same place we got ours. He is in the Coast Guard and was transferred to Auke. He said if we need any help just give him a call. Yep nice people up here. Quit a few C-Dorys in the area and this was the second belonging to someone in the Coast Guard and living in the area. The other was retired and living in Ketchikan. He used his boat while working as a fishing guide for folks off the cruse ships.
Now we are out of Auke Bay and heading north up the Lynn Canal with Skagway as our next destination. Skagway is about 70 miles out and the Lynn Canal is known for strong winds. There’s only a few places to dodge into should the wind kick up so best be looking ahead and have a plan B. We were lucky the winds were fair and we made Skagway that day. Lots of history in Skagway. We walked around and did the tourist things. We had been to Skagway on cruse ships and don’t recall having to stay at the dock for three days due to small craft advisories. With our 22 foot C- Dory however on day 4 when the wind let up and we were headed south about 05:30 hours.

The Catch-22 went to Alaska part 5

Haines will be our next stop and overnight stay. Again good folks here too. We did laundry, had dinner out. We walked around town, and enjoyed watching the kids playing in the dock area. Haines has a claim to fame when it comes to bald eagles. Just outside of Haines there is a bold eagle preserve where the eagles gather in the winter.
The special at the restaurant where we ate was “ all you can eat crab” we had something else. We had been eating crab on the boat for most of trip. Everything in Haines seems to be up hill, so get your walking boots on. We got a good nights sleep and set out for another day of enjoyment.
Time to head south down the Lynn Cannl and face a great day a day, a slight breeze and just a little mist in the air. Not wanting to hang out in the Lynn Cannl for a few more days, we gunned it and made Pt. Couverden by mid day. Lots of humpback whales in the area to take up our time. Dropped my line in the water just off Rocky Island near Pt. Couverden and came up with some rockfish for dinner/lunch. We checked out the nearby Ansley Island and decided to drop anchor just inside for the night. Can’t just sit and play cards all night when you know the sun isn’t going down until about 22:30 hours. Out comes the fishing pole and more fun is on the line. One fish to remember is the one on my line when a gnat wanted to eat my face, I swatted the gnat, knocked my glasses in the water and lost the fish all in one smooth movement. Things can happen like that.With the morning light we pulled up anchor and are off to Hoonah in Port Frederick. This is across Icy Strait and west from where we were. Nice crossing. We stopped to watch the sea otters for a while, big guys they were too. We made this another one of our fuel stops. If you go on up the bay you’ll find some great places to spend some time and nobody is around. We found most places were like that, nobody around. We stayed in North Bight near Neka Bay one night. We had rain but no wind. Porpoises were all over the place when I woke up the next morning which would be about three hours before the first mate gets out of bed. I put the dinghy in and played around for a while. Didn’t go on shore. We had seen more bear * black & brown * than I cared to dance with.We made a stop near Midway Island, which is quite a neat looking rock. I took the dinghy and fished for a while near a creek just for fun. There were lots of bold eagles near the creek. While at play I see a bear coming down for brunch and was trying to signal my wife so she could get the field glasses out. When I got back to the boat, which was about 100 yards away, she was laughing and asked if I saw the bears. Just about at the brush line 40 yards from where I was earlier were several brown bear, glad I didn’t look like a salmon.
To our surprise a large flock of horned puffins came down and we enjoyed watching them. We thought they would only be found further north. From the Midway Island area which is in the Port Frederick area we headed up what is called The Narrows. We had seen quite a few humpback whales out in the straits but was surprised to see one in an area like this. We checked out the inlet (where people at one time transported supplies and equipment over the narrow landmass) to the Tenakee Inlet. I did a little more fishing from the dinghy.
That night we anchored in South Bight which is near North Bight in this same area. This place looks like an alpine lake and smooth as glass. Waterfalls, birds singing, and porpoise swimming back and forth. Did a little running around in the dinghy again. What a great place to spend the night.

The Catch-22 went to Alaska part 6

From the Port Frederick area we went back across Icy Strait and up Excursion Inlet. We made another fuel stop at a cannery. Here is where those leather gloves come in handy. Once you tie up you need to climb up a ladder, about 35 feet to get the fuel hose and lower it over the side. The water hose is handled the same way, and then you have to pull them back up to the top. No charge for the water. We took the excursion up Excursion Inlet. There were jelly fish were everywhere and we found a nice little cove to stay the night. This is an area you don’t want to miss; cliffs go up several hundred feet and are quite a sight to see.
From Excursion Inlet we headed west through Icy Passage and into Icy Strait with the Elfin Cove area to be our next anchorage. Taking the North Passage we swing south a little past Lemesurier Island stopping to fish ( dolly varden, and one huge halibut). Passed through South Inian Pass, did a little fishing west of Inian Island where I thought a sea lion was coming into the boat after my rock fish. Lots of big sea otters in the area. Another neat area and the weather was great too. We poked our nose out into Cross Sound (just so we could say we did) when off the starboard side popped up a pod of humpback. These were the largest whales we've seen on our trip, had to hang out and watch for a while.
Now we head into Elfin Cove to fuel up and look around. Elfin is a small village, and one of the most unique ones we stopped at. Its built for the most part on a island of rock with a wooden walkways supported by pilings connect one store or house to the next. Folks fly in by float plane to vacation what a great idea. You’ll find several fishing lodge type resorts in the area. The little store’s hours seem to vary, so don’t get in a rush. If you’re looking for ice, keep looking you won’t find it here. People in this town seem to know what they like and Elfin is it. I don’t blame them, it’s a neat place. We anchored for the night as far inside Port Althorp as we could get, the wind was kicking up a little. This had been another great day, and it got better when a brown bear started showing us his fishing skills. This bear would run the length of the beach near a small stream trying to catch a salmon. What a show he put on. Other bears in the area worked the stream and had a fish in no time at all. The next morning we’re up early and cursed back into Elfin to top off our gas tanks and fill up with stove fuel. I walk into the office at the fuel dock and a mom and her two daughters had a catalog out, placing orders for clothing via the phone. I ask how things got delivered they said by air of course. No large department store just around the corner in the area.
From Elfin we crossed over to Taylor Bay took a look at the receding glacier and lots of sea otters in the area. Left Taylor Bay up North Inian Pass and into Dundas Bay. We did some fishing near the entrance to the bay. I caught a nice rock fish for dinner. I dropped a small green jig down and the bottom came alive again. This time it was a BIG halibut. After a long fight the fish was near the boat and it was longer that the boat is wide. I cut the line. What a kick! They are very strong fish.We went way back into Dundas Bay to spend the night. Nice area calm water, but only two crab in the trap that night.

The Catch-22 went to Alaska part 7

Leaving Dundas Bay the next morning, we saw sea otters by the dozens. Some with pups riding on moms chest.

We head back across North Passage and east through South Passage, around Pt. Adolphus and down Icy Strait. With flat water and clear skies we round Pt. Augusta and enter Chatham Strait. Next we swing into Tenakee Inlet for fuel water and to anchor for the night. Tenakee Springs is an old fishing village, which has seen more productive days. The people are very open to visitors and seem to have everything they need except a water treating system. You can get water here but you will need to boil it before it’s used. They have a post office with a bakery next door, there are no paved roads and like other small villages they have there own elect power generators. Again the leather gloves come in handy, you’ll climb a ladder to get fuel & water if you get it. The food stuff, hardware, and fuel can be had from the same store. No ice here ( per the state ) in that they don’t have a water treatment system. The ferry dock is here too, but it only stops once or twice per week. If you stop here pick up the Tenakee Springs cook book, it makes a interesting gift. After fueling and shopping we went to Crab Bay across Tenakee Inlet where we anchored for the night. Here you can eat crab and watch the seals eat salmon.
From Tenakee Bay we cruised across Chatham Strait to Angoon for water and had the time of lives. When we neared Point Danger ( good name for this point ) we stopped to watch a few humpback whales, that were feeding What a show they put on. One of them came completely out of the water near a small open boat, which must have scared the people onboard. We spent about two hours just watching the show, it was GREAT. I don’t know how many whales were in the area but there was a lot of breaching going on. This is one morning on our trip that Kathy or I will never forget. We motored into Angoon where you can get water at the dock. You’ll have to pass through some of the most swirling water you could come upon. Before you reach the dock. If you need to get to the store from the dock and are lucky - like I was - someone will pick you up, or you can walk the mile or so if you need to stretch your legs. Fuel, food, and water can be had here ( don’t forget the whale show ). What a great day.
Coming out of Kootznahoo Inlet and around Danger Pt. we see the whales remaining in the area feeding. We need to get across Chatham Strait soon due to the afternoon winds. They were picking up and we wanted to find a good anchorage inside Peril Strait someplace.
It became a rough ride before we got off Chatham Strait and into Peril Strait. Once inside it smoothed out for us. We rounded Pt. Benham, checking Appleton Cove, and Rodman Bay for anchorage for the night. Didn’t care for either. Appleton Cove had a log float just inside the cove & Rodman Bay drops straight off except for the end. That’s where the Alaska Fish and Game were working with one of their large ships.
Heading north by northwest rounding Nismeni Pt. passing Pogibshi Pt. we were into the more narrow part of Peril Strait. Its about 16:00 hours now and we pull into Deep Bay where we anchor for the night. It rained hard that night but very little wind. Nice little bay with lots of fish jumping and eagles eating the slow ones near a stream on the north end.
Kathy is talking about how nice it would be to have a real bed and running water. Our next stop will be Sitka. They have hotels and water you can drink.
Coming out of Peril Strait the boat traffic starts to increase and there are more navigational hazards. (Not that there hasn’t been a lot of hazards just getting this far.)
We Get into Sitka and find a place at the dock (no charge). We have been to Sitka before so know where a few things are. We called a taxi and headed to the Super 8 Motel where Kathy gets checked in. We enjoyed our stay at Sitka. She spends three nights at the motel while I have the boat all to myself, what a deal. I did have shower rights and could watch a little television. I took this time to change motor oil, install new spark plugs and some house cleaning. A taxi ride back to the boat and were ready to take off again heading south.

We decided to go down the outside to Cape Ommaney and turn north from there, a big run for a little boat. All provisions were replenished and off we go.

The Catch-22 went to Alaska part 8

From Sitka we maneuvered through a cluster of small islands and west past Long Island, turning south near Vasilief Bank. About 15:00 hours we anchored in a large bay on the north end of Biorka Island for the night. As Kathy would say the sunset here was gorgeous. The next morning we picked our way through the Necker Islands heading south running from three to five miles out depending on the shore line. The wind gods lets us know finding protected anchorage would be a good thing. We pulled into Whale Bay for the night and used an area inside what is called Rakovoi Bay, great place to hang out when the wind is blowing. The next day we pulled anchor when the fog cleared enough to see. We needed to get going while the wind is calm. We know Cape Ommaney can be rough and don’t need the afternoon wind kicking in making it worse.
You have good days and days like the one we were about to have. The starboard engine high temperature alarm comes on and so I shut it down. Now the wind picks up, were about ten miles north of Cape Ommaney and two miles outside of Redfish Cape. On our way into Redfish Cape I tried to make a radio check, with no return check. Seems in some areas your radio might as well be a paper weight, we already knew our cell phone was useless.
Redfish Cape is looking very good to us at this time. We set anchor and from what I can tell the starboard engine has a lose wire in the alarm system and will be alright. With the wind calm and the cape only ten miles out we go for it. Just around the cape would be Port Alexander our next overnight anchorage. I wanted to swing wide around the cape expecting to find calmer water wrong. The wind kicked up bad from the north and now were on top of waves from twelve to eighteen feet. To make things more exciting through the waves you can see these logs shooting past every so often like a torpedo. Next the starboard engine high temperature alarm comes on again. My comment to my wife was “sit down and read your book” (like that‘s going to happen.) -- things are not going good
Just to add a little entertainment to the entire situation screaming between the waves were these puffin birds. I set the starboard engine at one speed and adjust speed only with the port engine. We got a little side ways once when a larger wave grabbed us for a while, that one really got my attention.
We got around Cape Ommaney and turned north looking for Port Alexander which is five or six miles up. With a little luck, a trusting wife, and answered prayers we made Port Alexander mid afternoon. The wind is blowing about fifteen MPH and it just whips through this little port, but its better than setting a mile off Cape Ommaney on top of a wave. We used up most of our fuel coming down from Sitka and tried to refuel only to find out the store hours are from 13:00 to 16:00 hours on the days it was open. This wasn’t one of those days. The fuel supply is from a barge anchored in the middle of the bay. We checked with the barge over the radio and were informed they would be open at 13:00 hours the next day.
Taking the opportunity to stretch our legs we tied up to the dock and I walked up the ramp to look around. They have a small store, which was closed. A phone, and no paved roads, no need for any. Our books said the water here was no-good. While talking to one of the guys on the dock I find the state made them put in a small water treating system. We needed water. We don’t see many people around so pull on into the bay and drop anchor for the night. What a windy night.
The next morning the wind had calmed and we just need to kick back and relax until the store opens. At 13:05 hours I call the barge and ask for fuel, she said she wasn’t going to open today but because she had informed us yesterday, that we could get fuel we could. We fueled up and were given a little ice from the large containers of iced salmon by the deck hand.
Lucky us we, had full fuel tanks, fresh water, and we survived Cape Ommaney. Life is good.

The Catch-22 went to Alaska part 9

We now head north up Chatham Strait with a smile on our face, watching whales and feeling good. The water is smooth and the sky is clear, just a wonderful day. After a few hours we pull into Red Bluff Bay on the east side of Baranof Island and a little over forty miles north of Cape Ommaney. This is a place described in one of the books as a place not to be missed. Dropped anchor about four miles up the bay and 1/4 mile from the most beautiful waterfall we’d seen this entire trip. Bald eagles, and seals. We didn’t see any bear but were sure they were around. Must agree with the wife, this is one magnificent place.

From here we head up Frederick Sound on water as smooth as glass passing Turnabout Island. Our thoughts are of hot showers at Petersburg, our next port. We pass a small pod of humpback whales. We have been very lucky in that we have seen so very much and had wonderful weather for the most part. A change of mind puts us in Thomas Bay, where we anchor for the night. One more night until we get that hot shower. In Petersburg we get the same slip at the dock we had before, and yes the showers were working just fine this time.

Out of Petersburg we head south down the Wrangell Narrows, around Pt. Alexander, coming across the top of Zarembo Island. Turning south down Stikine Strait we round Steamer Pt. and stay the night in a small cove. The next morning we motor up a small stream just a little to the south and off Pt. Harrington .We anchored and had breakfast. I was in the back fishing when wolves start howling from just inside the tree line. Maybe it was the bacon cooking that set them off.
Now we crossed Clarence Strait and stopped around Blashke Island for a while to pick up a few bottom fish. Nothing to brag about but good eating. We pulled into Thorn Bay and from the write up thought we would be seeing a large city. I guess it is if compared to some places we had been. Refueled our main tanks and were on our way to Lyman Anchorage for the night and dropped anchor in Kindergarten Bay.

Kindergarten Bay was calm with lots of birds to watch. After a good nights sleep we are on our way back to Ketchikan. After crossing Clarence Strait we stop just off Caamano Pt. and do a little fishing. Kathy hooks a large red snapper, which went on the barbecue grill that night. I landed a couple of rock fish to give away at the dock when we got into Ketchikan. A change of plan put us in Thomas Basin just up from Caamano Pt. where we anchored for the night.

Next it’s off to Ketchikan passing on the outside of Betton Island, around Pt. Higgins and into Tongass Narrows. We tied up near the same spot we had been when we first arrived in Ketchikan. Our laundry and showers were taken care of, and supplies put onboard. I shave off my white beard, which I grew for this trip and get a fresh hair cut in town. Now it’s off for dinner out. At the bridge on the Ketchikan Creek where we tie up again people are landing salmon. Some keep them but most put them back into the water. Nice day with lots of sunshine.

Our last run for the trip will be up the Behm Canal to see the Misty Fjords National Monument. After a good nights sleep we stop and fill our main fuel tanks = 40 gal. and our four five gal. jugs = 20 gal. and were off. Our first stop is Smeatony Bay. What a sight with cliffs shooting up from the water to what seems a thousand feet. We had lunch in this area and just enjoyed the view. Next its back up Behm Canal for a few miles on glass smooth water where I stop for a little fishing. After picking up our limit of red snapper we head into Punchbowl Cove where we dropped anchor for the night. Two other boats stayed the night too. You needed to anchor close to shore because the bottom drops off very fast. I could try to describe these areas but they are just too magnificent for words.

After breakfast (about 09:00) were set out again up Behm Canal and into Walker Cove. Kathy said she would like a cup of water from one of the many water falls. I put a cup on the end of our boat pole and got her some freshly melted ice water. After sight seeing for sometime we headed north on Behm Canal stopping at Chickamin River for a look around, lots of silt in this area. Next were off to find a place to anchor for the night. We check out Fitzgibbon Cove and had lunch while anchored near a seal haul out point. The Misty Fjords were beautiful with rock walls shooting thousands of feet into the air, waterfalls, and smooth water. I would think they would be even greater after a heavy winter when thousands of waterfalls would be flowing and snow would be on all the cliffs.
We head down the Behm Narrows, lots silt in the water here too. We turn north up Anchor Pass where we tie up to a mooring buoy just out a ways from a small cabin. The cabin belongs to the U.S. Forest Service and from our understanding can be rented for short-term use. Three scruffy looking guys came by in a small open boat make a U turn and start taking pictures of the cabin. We find out they were lumberjacks until those jobs shutdown. Now they were working for the power company clearing roads. We shared our catch of the day (red snapper) with them, which they said would make them a nice dinner. Nice folks.
After dinner I tried spin casting for a while with no luck, lots of king salmon were jumping. About 22:30 hours the woods come alive with a very boisterous bear. This guy grunted, groaned and carried on most of the night. I’ve heard bears in a zoo but out in the woods they sound much bigger, and more threatening.
Come day light we headed toward Behm Narrows again and rounded Black Island turning into Yes Bay where we paid just under $3.00 per gal. for fuel. We took on twenty gallons just to insure we had enough to make Ketchikan. Near the bottom of Behm Canal we cut up Clover Passage just for a little sight seeing. Then it’s around Pt. Higgins, up Tongass Narrows and into Ketchikan.
Green Peace had their big ship anchored in the Ward Cove area. Most of the towns people we talked to were not fans of the Green Peace movement. Some said they were hoping they would go away or their ship would sink. They were saying a lot of people lost jobs due to Green Peace politics.

This trip is just about over for the large part. We head back to Prince Rupert with Kathy at the helm and smooth water under the boat. A group of Dall’s porpoise cut across our bow, a perfect ending to a perfect odyssey. We find Dixon Entrance smooth as glass again and our return Prince Rupert was smooth.

We called the folks at Fas Gas where we stored our tow rig. We were picked up in no time at all.
The people running the Fas Gas station were very nice, they set up a place to wash the boat, it was just a little dirty. We spent the night at the campground again and were on the road home the next day.

THE END

I hope some of you enjoyed our story, and have been inspired to make such a wonderful trip.

[TyBoo]

Following are the replies to the original posting of this fine tale:

[TyBoo]

Rooster -

I had to go way back on the list to find this one! I took the liberty of combining the several posts into one message, with titles for each section. That way we could have it and the comments/replies all in the same thread.

I realize this saga is still in the Documents section, but I think it might find more viewers on the board.

Thank you once again for such a fine story and so great a contribution to our Pub!

Mike

[thiatt]

Thanks, this was great to read. I just picked my C-dory yesterday, a 25 cruiser. And hope to follow in your footsteps in time. I have been planning on buying this boat for 3 years now and look forward to having my own story to contribute. This is a great web site.

[rogerbum]

Tom - congrats on the new boat. Ask the nerds for a photo album and put a few shots of the new boat in there. Then keep building on those memories and share them with the crowd as you create them.