The Cosmic C is on the Great Loop at last.

[Cosmic C]

Well, we're finally doing it. The Cosmic C left our home base in the Thousand Island region of the St Lawrence river on Tuesday, August 8 on the first leg of our Great Loop cruise. We had great weather and a great time all through the Trent-Severn system, including a bluegrass concert in the park next to the dock in Campbellford, and another concert in the park next to the dock in Peterborough. The Georgian Bay greeted us with a couple of very windy days (30K+), so we holed up in a beautiful little cove for 48 hours, hoping the anchor would hold (it did, but we still haven't quite gotten over our nervousness about going to sleep on the hook!). I'm writing this from an internet cafe in Parry Sound, and the weather is back to beautiful again. Life can't get much better than cruising this beautiful region in a C Dory!

We have our own web site -- www.the-fowles.com -- which we update as we can. It has more details about what we are doing. El and Bill, are you still thinking about a cruise on the inland rivers this fall?

Pat and Mary Fowles

[colobear]

Enjoy and keep us posted. Your home base is, according to National Geographic...a beautiful region and one that we've never seen with our own eyes. By the way, What is a "great loop cruise"? I know about great circle routes but a great loop reminds me of either rodeo cowboys or a good flyfishing cast

[smittypaddler]

Good for you guys! I'll be doing my final segment in September, Green Bay to the Mississippi via Lake Michigan and the Illinois River, so maybe we'll cross paths (I started my loop in La Cross). I'm curious about your timing. Unless you travel slowly you'll hit the Gulf during prime hurricane season. Are you planning on stopping short of there somewhere until, say, November, or even December?

Also, you may be aware, but there's been a paucity of marinas and gas stops in the Florida Panhandle. When I got to Pensacola, I couldn't find anywhere to get gas. I ended up on channel 16; "will any marina in the Pensacola area with gasoline please answer?" Fortunately, a fisherman took pity, and guided me to a little out-of-the way gas stop that I never would've found on my own.

Also, and again you're probably aware, from Hoppie's Marina on the Mississippi to Kentucky Lake, about 175 miles, there are no gas stops. And the final 150 miles on the Tom Bigbee above Mobile, there are no gas stops.

BTW, Dog River Marina was one of my favorites. Very well run.

[El and Bill]

Pat and Mary --
Good on ya!! Trust you will be heading down the rivers for the fall and coming up the coast in spring, to avoid hurricanes on the Atlantic coast. Also suggest taking your time when you get around the Tenn or Cumberland Rivers and doing some fall cruising on them -- glorious!

http://www.geocities.com/bill_fiero/cumber.htm

http://www.geocities.com/bill_fiero/tenn.htm

And, Colobear, take a look at this connection to see what is the Great Loop -- an incredible circumnavigation of the Eastern US and one of the finest boat cruises on earth!!

http://www.geocities.com/bill_fiero/loop.htm

Have a great trip Pat and Mary -- we look forward to following your journey. And, we're off to England for some canal cruising this fall, so won't be meeting you on the rivers -- sure would have enjoyed it!!

SmittyPaddler -have you posted anything about your journey that might be helpful to Pat and Mary and fun for the rest of us to read?

[Captains Cat]

Patty and Barry, the "Great Loop" is up (or down) the Ol'Miss, across the great lakes, out the St Lawrence, down the Atlantic Coast around FLA and back to the Mississippi. Can go either direction, wish I had time to do it...

Lots of "inside" passages (intercoastal waterway, etc.)

Charlie

[El and Bill]

Charlie --
Most folks in small boats come up the IntraCoastal waterway along the Atlantic in Springtime. Then, with a brief day trip on the open ocean, you go into the Hudson,and into the Canadian & NY canals and to the Great Lakes.

Most travel southerly in fall -- down the Miss to the Ohio, then up to the Tennessee and down to the Gulf on the TennTom Waterway to avoid the lack of facilities and view of levees for hundreds of miles on the lower Miss.

Then, after the fall cruise south on the rivers, you go along the Gulf coast after hurricane season, across Florida and up the ICW in spring to the Hudson.

Of course, there are many ways to skin a cat -- but down the St. lawrence and into the Atlantic and then southerly off the Maritimes and New England coast is a bit daunting for most small boat cruisers.

[jimcinfra]

I know that I am prejudice concerning the lower Miss River, but maybe you could rethink missing........Memphis (doorway to the Delta...Delta blues, Peabody Hotel and its famous ducks).....mouth of the Arkansas River which starts in the Rocky Mountains and dream of all the mountain men that might have ridden log rafts to Natchez with their furs or gold.....Vicksburg (Gibraltar of the South) with the most outstanding Civil War Park in the nation.....Bruinsburg (below Grand Gulf) which was the site of the largest amphibious assault until D-Day......Natchez with its Antebellum homes, sandbar where Jim Bowie made his knife famous, Under The Hill with its notorious history.....on down to New Orleans with its history and food.
......so you might have to paddle a few miles along the way :shock:

What it lacks in views, it more than makes up in American history which is as rich as the soil that is on its banks.

[thataway]

Things have certainly changed along the Florida Pan handle as far as Marinas and fuel since 2004. If Smittypaddler had given me a phone call or E mail, I would have put him up at my dock, and even right after Ivan gotten him gas somewhere. In the Pensacola area we host many "loopers" on a regular basis--but the C Dories are one of the few boats which have shoal enough draft to get across a sand bar to our dock.
Please any looper, give me a call or E mail, we are in the phone book on La Pas street. We have transportation and know the area--will even round up some other C 'Dory owners as an excuse for a party!

Current status of the Marinas in Florida, is that some have gone the way of condos, but that is what is happening in Florida all over. There are still many places to anchor, and no reason to go to a marina, except for fuel and water. Even on holiday weekends, there are out of the way isolated places. Some marinas are pretty pricey, and there are C Dory members or other boaters along the way with docks who will help you out!

As for the Lower Mississippi. Talk about areas where you cannot get fuel. You have to jerry jug at Vicksburg--and there is basically nothing until you get to New Orleans (as it is reconstructed). I personally would want a good range--probably more than most 22 's carry, or spend a lot of time drifting/slow speed to get the range. Also there are stretches where there are no really good places to tie up for the night. I agree that there are some good day trips, if you launch and run up and down the river, but would discourage the average 22 owner from doing the entire lower river below the Arkansaw. I hope that the Tom Cat 255 will have enough fuel (we cannot jerry jug because of health issues) to do this run, but it can be tricky. I have done part of the lower Mississippi in diesel boats with longer range.

The Great loop (or Circle) is typically from Florida--in its full extent around Key West, or Hawk Channel, up the ICW, to the Hudson River, Erie Canal, to the St. Lawrance, Great Lakes to Lake Michigan, Down the Illinois. with a short stretch on the Mississippi, Ohio, Cumberland, to the Tennessee, then down the Tom Bigbee waterway to Mobile, and along the Gulf Coast ICW to Carabelle, the Big Bend, or cross the Gulf (can be some open water), to the ICW down to Ft. Meyers, and Okechobee Waterway, or down to via Marco Island Key West. There are a number of books on the loop. "Honey Lets get a boat". The Great Circle Cruise (Remmy) and Skipper Bob publications are some of the better books to start with.

So, Cosmic C, when will we expect you in Pensacola? You timing is about right--and don't let people scare you off because of hurricane season. There are always places to go which will give good refuge, if necessary. We were right on the track of Ivan--135 mph documented wind gust only 5 miles from our house at a military facility, and had no damage to our boats in the bayou where we live.

[Cosmic C]

Hi all!

We're now in Killarney after a gorgeous day on the water. The wind's gone, the sun's brilliant, and we've just had rusty nails to celebrate.

Smittypaddler, we plan to do the loop in stages. Stage 1 is to Fulton, Mississippi, where we'll leave the C for a month or so, coming back in November to take it to Tampa, hopefully after all the hurricanes are over.

Thataway, we'll certainly give you a call, probably sometime in November. We gratefully accept any help and advice anyone is willing to give!

Patrick and Mary

[Cosmic C]

After having a wonderful time exploring the Georgian Bay, the North Channel, and Mackinac Island, we're now heading down Lake Michigan. Stayed last night in Charlevoix, and will probably stay here today because the lake is a little rough.

[Not For Hire]

Hi guys,

Getting some vicarious kicks from your trip. There are nice harbors at Boyne City and East Jordan at the two far ends of Lake Charlevoix. This large, beautiful lake is worth exploring. Boyne City more touristy and East Jordan a bit more working town. Both cater to boaters with restaurants, parks, shopping, nearby.

Northport is a great harbor and small town. Grocery store one block. Famous cinnamon twists at the bakery. If you want to vist the Traverse Bays then Elk Rapids has outstanding harbor also Sutton Bay has a nice small harbor on the othe side. Clinch Park in downtown TC is good too. I like Northport and Elk Rapids the best of these places.

Good overnights at Frankfort, Arcadia, Manistee and Ludington. If Manistee Municipal is full a couple of miles farther inland is Seng's Marina. New and nice facilities for transients, cost more ($20 v $33) than the public marina though. I will likely be fishing at Manistee 8-26 or 8-27.

I like Manistee. Others prefer a more touristy spot. Good facilities. Interesting inland lake with almost all lakefront owned by RRs or industry. Nice boardwalk along the S side of channel from downtown to Lakefront. 440 restaurant next to Municipal Marina overlooks the harbor channel. May see freightors or barges going through downtown. Right now very busy town with salmon fishing. Will see big fishing fleets in AM off of Frankfort and Manistee.

Onekema has Portage Lake and Onekema Marina private harbor the slips are for larger boats and the marina is across the lake from the town. The resort at the lake entrance is a good tie up for nice restaurant.

Arcadia is called veterans harbor. Very small lake and harbor, nice folks, and very small town to walk about.

Ludington has great Municipal and private marinas next to each other. ($20 v $35) The private marina has full facilities and swim pool, etc. There is a little West Marine 1/2 block from either.

Regards.

Mark

[Old Jim]

Pat and Mary,

When you leave the Charlevoix area, you might want to consider making the lake crossing sooner rather than later as the weather starts to change in late August and early September. You'll get more intense high pressure systems moving across the midwest which bring much cooler air and strong northwest winds to Lake Michigan. The cooler air moving across the warm water can produce some heavy winds and waves.

You might think about going from Charlevoix to Northport and then perhaps to Leland on the west side of the Leelanau Peninsula. Both of those are great little harbor towns and very welcoming to the transient sailor.

From there, you can make your way down to Manistee and then make the jump across to Two Rivers, Wisconsin. The distance at that point is about 60 miles. If you're a fan of great cheeseburgers, there's a little tavern up on the hill behind the marina. If memory serves it's called the Blue Goose or some such. It's a shabby little joint but they had the best burgers on the Great Lakes. At least in our humble opinion.

Once on the west side of the lake you'll be somewhat protected by the lee shore as you travel south to Chicago.

The harbors aren't quite as nice on the west side with the best being Manitowoc, Port Washington, Milwaukee and Racine; all of which have lots to do within walking distance. Of course, downtown Chicago is spectacular if you're able to find transient space somewhere. Try to avoid staying anywhere south of Monroe Street Harbor as you will be somewhat removed from the action.

Lake Michigan can be a challenge in the fall but if you pick your weather, you should have a great trip. Treat it with the respect it demands and you'll be just fine.

Jim

[Cosmic C]

We've basically decided to stay on the Eastern shore all the way down. We've received much advice, and most Great Loopers advise this. Plus 60 miles of open water is not something I or my wife take on lightly. A storm coming on when one is 30 miles offshore is something I really wouldn't want to face. I like the Michigan safe haven harbors every 20 miles or so! We're fairly conservative, and we stayed in Charlevoix today because of the 2-4 ft, increasing to 3-5 ft forecast. Yesterday we came down from Mackinac Island to Petosky and then on to Charlevoix, and on the last ten miles the wind came up and we were punching into 3-5's. A lot of stuff ended up on the floor, and, while not dangerous, it certainly wasn't comfortable! The forcast for tomorrow and Wednesday is for 1-2 ft, and if this is accurate we'll head for at least Frankfort tomorrow.

Regardless, thanks to you both for the advice!

Patrick

[C-batical]

Patrick:

We just missed each other, the last several days we were in Ludington where we spent time also cruising the Manistee and Pentwater areas. The week before, and I was up in the North Channel, Detour, and the Straits of Mackinac where I met several "Loopers" There is a couple from Texas in a de-masted sail boat powered by a 25 HP outboard boat that we had a couple of long interesting conversations with. They are a neat couple. Their boat is called "Joe Blow".

If you decide to stay in Ludington try the Yacht Haven Harbor, It is a little more expensive but well worth it. It is extremely clean and they have all the amenities including a beautiful swimming pool, hot tub, and dockside internet. We spent three nights there and it was super. One word of caution, however, and that is as you proceed south down the coast the salmon are running and all marina's are very busy so call ahead. The best time to pull in is in the middle of the week. Weekends are crowded.

Michigan welcomes you.

Best regards,
Rollie/C-Batical

[Cosmic C]

Well, Old Jim, despite all my guff about being conservative and staying on the East coast of Lake Michigan, we were about to leave the municipal marina at Ludington (one of the best, really clean, even has a TV room and free telephone) on Wednesday morning when we made the exercutive decision to follow your advice and cross the lake. The forecast for the day was perfect, the forecast for Thursday was also excellent, but for Friday and Saturday lousy and we thought we might make it to Chicago by Thursday evening, but only if we crossed the lake. So off we went, 18 - 20 mph in 1-2 ft waves, really happy. Then 20 miles out it started to change, and 30 miles from either shore we were down to 10 mph into 2-4 ft waves (not forecast) and 3-5 mph every two or three minutes as a series of very steep 5-footers would sweep by. Boy, had we made a mistake! But then it all started to change again, and by the time we were 20 miles from the western shore it had calmed to the extent that we decided to cut the corner and go directly to Fort Washington for fuel rather than Cheboygan (sp?), and the final approach to FW was almost oily calm. Strange day!

Had a great time in Miwaukee (what a fantastic art museum), and then had to duck into Racine early Thursday as the thunderstorms (not forecast) started. Spent 24 hours at the Racine Sea Scouts dock and experienced one of the worst storms we've ever been in on Thursday p.m., 2 inches of rain in 2 hours, almost continuous lightening and thunder, quite scary. Got out of Racine finally on Friday p.m. and made it to Chicago with one eye on the weather radar and jumping from port to port, only making the decision to go on at each port.

But Lake Michigan is now behind us, and now we face the inland rivers. We just heard that thw Wilson Lock is being repaired and delays may be up to 30 hours. But that's cruising.