Northern Lake Michigan

[Not For Hire]

Just returned from a week long cruise in Northern Lake Michigan. Over 300 miles, two long crossings of seventy plus miles. Had good weather. On one 90 mile day it was so calm there wasn't even a ripple for half the trip. On that stretch I did just over 5 (statute) mpg.

Visited Charlevoix (three good overnight harbors on this gorgeous and ritzy inland lake).

Also Beaver Island, largest island in Lake Michigan. A nice historical site. Served by large ferry. Not near as touristy as many spots. Municpal marina very good accomodation, private marina a little less so. Good bike riding, eating, walking, history, museum, library, beach etc., close to harbor. Beaver Island is part of an archipelago of several islands. Garden Island has several good anchorages for overnight, can wade ashore. Some Indian historica digging going on at Hog island. Good smallie fishiing (in July).

Visited Fayette again. This wonderful little place has Snail Shell Harbor. It is on the west side of the Garden Peninsula. Joinlty operated by the DNR and Michigan Historical Comm. this park is lovely. Many restored buildings from the iron smelting ghost town. There is a campground for motorists about 1/2 mile away but the harbor (with dockage for several boats) is right in the historic town site. A ferry used to come from Washington Island, WI, but not anymore. No electric or water at docks, cheap rates though ($14 for overnight for my 22) and a well protected harbor. Good place to study history, walk the beaches (rocky beaches and slag beaches) great views from the limestone cliffs. Park personnel say that it can be busy on holiday weekends and boats may have to raft up. I have never seen this. Mooring is allowed for free as well. There is no town neaby but a great local bar and diner is a one mile walk. Delciious fresh whitefish every day.

Escanaba is a larger city (10,000) 25 miles west of Fayette. It was the source of the iron ore smelted at Fayette. It is still and iron ore port although not near as busy as it once was and not near as busy as the Superior ports. Great harbor facility, full service, helpful staff. It has a 160 acre park along the lakeshore and the harbor facility is part of it. There are beaches, volleyball, soccer, band shell, walk and bike paths, all part of the park. Downtown is a few blocks away with restaurants and internet cafe and hotels. Good place.

One of my goals was to visit the newly opened harbor in Cedar River. Opened in July 2005. Pay attention to the buoys, shallow approach but now marked on both sides. New harbor with 120 slips, many low slips good for dories as well as the slips for bigger boats. There were eight boats there. They were extremely courteous there. George is the harbormaster and Diane and other college students couldn't help me enough. They loaned me one of the harbor bikes so I could exercise my dog by running down to Wells State Park one mile away. We didn't stay the night. The harbor area needs more shade and trees and grass. I thought with the park nearby this would be a great place. I much preferred Escanaba and Fayette as overnight stops.

Jackson Harbor on Washington Island was as I remembered it. Very shallow, poorly marked. I went in there just to let the dog out before we crossed back to Michigan, some 72 miles to land and then another 10 or so around the corner to Northport Harbor. On this day we did 130 miles in one day. Just the way it worked out. If Rock Island Park had worked our better for overnighting or if I hadn't been a little concerned with the weather I wouldn't have crossed the open water until the next day.

My home ports are Manistee and then all of the Traverse Bay ports and the Charlevoix ports. Patrolled Traverse Bay many years with the Aux, etc, so I have info on those places if interested. On this trip I stopped in Northport overnight. Had been there a couple of nights earlier in this year and every year. Nice harbor, it was full up. Big festival in Traverse City this week, Blue Angels in town, etc. They did have space for me on the wall, inside the harbor. (That same day they had 112 empty slips at Cedar River). Saw Kestrel, sharp, gray 22, docked in the harbor but no people about. Northport is a nice harbor. Fair sized park area near the harbor. (Grass, shade and parks are important for those that travel with dogs). Good grocery story one block away. Barb's bakery with world famous cinnamon twists 1 1/2 blocks away. Not as much vehicle traffic nor as much shopping as Suttons Bay and Elk Rapids. The bathhouse facilities are good, not great (I am not fussy, to me they are great).

No big trips planned now until September. Will try and squeeze in as much fising as I can. In September I intend to motor south from St. Paul on the Mississippi and back. As far as I can in two weeks. This will be about the same time as the Erie Canal cruise. (Which I intend to make some year). However, I named my boat after a Mark Twain expression and the Big Muddy is calling. Anyone else want to go? As the time nears I will be seeking advice. Tentative plans are to launch at Stillwater about 9/17/06.

More boat stuff -my new gas tanks worked great, no leaks. I only got over 5 mpg on the one day. Most bumpy days I seemed to do about 4.2 mpg. I usually travelled 14 to 19.5 statute mph. Longest time between landfalls was 5.5 hours (good dog!). It was never real rough except for about one hour on the whole trip. Ore boats make a real nice signature on Radar! On the crossing to Beaver Island the ferry caught up to me about 1/2 way across. It travels about 16 to 17 mph and I was travelling about 12 in slightly bumpy water. Not being proud I fell in right behind the ferry and finsihed the crossing in its relative smooth wake. I was playing with radar and trying to get my chartplotter back working, they probably thought I just couldn't steer.

The chartplotter was evidently fried by my new radar? This seems to happen with certain Lowrance GPS pucks until they included proper shielding. I await their reply. So for six day I had to rely on paper charts, several compasses, handheld gps, the gps in the radar, and the chartplotter on the laptop (with its own GPS). Not too redundant huh. Still not the same as the bounceproof model right in front of your nose.

The trim sensor on my port engine also quit about an hour into the trip. The same sensor was replaced last year. Apparently others have had the same problem with a plastic part breaking. Engines started and ran great throughout trip and I was very pleased with the mileage. The owner of a 46 foot SeaRay about fell over when I told him I travelled ninety miles today and used 17 gallons. He had lots of questions about my boat, I didn't have any for him.

When I pulled the boat out at Charlevoix at the end of the trip I even provided a little comical relief for the other folks at the ramp. When I pull my boat I have the taigate down and the glass hatch on my truck back down. So after untying the boat I jump on the tailgate from the dock, pull on the bow line until it is well started onto the trailer, then climb onto the trailer and hook up the winch. Good system used all the time. Well for whatever reason this trip I left the glass hatch to the pick up shell open, so it was extended. It was sort of windy so as I untied the boat I moved quickly and leapt from the dock onto the tailgate so I could get her started nice and straight. Wham the corner of the pickup top gate hit me right between the eyes. I went backwards, flat on my back on the dock, glasses broken, nose bleeding. Two guys and their son rushed to see if I was okay, they said I was bleeding (this was kind of obvious even to me). However, my only thought was to pop back up and get Not For Hire on her trailer before she scraped anything. I did so, pulled ahead out of the ramp, then climbed aboard the boat to use the first aid kit. I will have the badges for a few more days.

Regards,

Regards,

[Coastie Dory]

Hi Mark,

Thank you for the detailed review of you trip. I have done a lot of reading on Lake Michigan as well as two adventures in the last two and a half years. I spent a summer back in 1984 on the Coast Guard station at Plum Island. I saw it again for the first time in over twenty years two summers ago. Two of my reservist buddies and myself circumnavigated Door County in a 19 Angler. Rock Island was one of the stops and we spent the better part of a day exploring the trails and the old lighthouse. We tied up in the old boathouse which is one of the neatest structures I have ever seen. Overnighting was done in Algoma, Plum Island, Washington Island, and Sister Bay. The truck and trailer stayed at the Coast Guard station in Sturgeon Bay.

I intend to plan my next adventure for northern Lake Michigan for late this year or the following year depending on how busy things stay. Our last adventure was in May of this year and we ended up stuck in Grand Haven because of 40 to 50 mph gales. There are far worse places to be holed up, but it was still a disappointment as we planned to cross the lake. Also, since the trip was run in a 2855 Bayliner we were using fuel at a sickening rate. I guess pulling the boat early had some benefits!

Best wishes, Randy.

[Not For Hire]

Hi Randy, and hope things are well in St. Louis. You may recall giving me some advice on my boat. Very helpful from a distant dealer! The CG station at Plum Island is just part time now as I recall, and it may be one that is not only part time but also manned primarily by the Aux. like Alpena, MI. When I was there a few years ago I saw the Aux. out drilling and towing. I was flying the blue ensign at the time and chatted with them awhile. I didn't go ashore or spend the night although they graciously invited me to do so.

You never know about the east side of Lk. Michigan. Although there are lots of bolt holes you can have several days in a row when you can't get out. Early summer is usually the most gracious time, weather wise. When I have a cruise vacation in mind I usually pick a more protected area yet with access to the big water. Charlevoix, Traverse Bay and the Straits - St. Mary's area are good for this. If you are in Green Bay please head north. Good harbors at Menominee, Escanaba and now Cedar River on the way. Great destination at Fayette.

[Coastie Dory]

Hi Mark,

Actually the station at Plum Island was abandoned a number of years ago and moved to Washington Island by the ferry dock in Detroit Harbor. These northern life saving stations have been seasonal SAR stations for many years and are manned almost exclusively by reservists. I am sure there is regular participation by the Aux. as well. The Chief at Sturgeon Bay gave us permission to stay on the abandoned station at Plum as the island is closed to the public. I have very vivid memories of my summer there and it is sad to see the place deteriorating. I understand the state of Wisconsin may take over the island from the Coast Guard. There is an old abandoned light keepers residence and a fog signal there as well. There is a range light which is automated on the south east flank marking the passage through Death's Door. The island is about 325 acres.

The very next evening we stayed at the station on Washington Island with the crew there. We always stay at least one night at a Coast Guard station to enjoy the comraderie! I also have family who lives on Washington Island so the trip ranks as the best yet. I want two things for my next adventure: Twin engines and radar.

This last May we launched at Michigan City Indiana and went north to Grand Haven and the Coast Guard station. The next day we ventured up to Muskegon and visited the USS Silversides and the CGC McLane at the Great Lakes Naval Museum. We then returned to Grand Haven for a second night. The original weather report for 3-5 foot seas was revised to a small craft advisory for late the following day. Our plan was to cross the lake to Kenosha in the morning well ahead of the heavy weather. Later in the evening the forcast went to gale warnings with as much as 16 foot seas. We still thought we could get across well ahead of the weather, but the morning brought fog. We gave ourselves until 1 PM for the fog to lift, but it never did. At this point we were stuck. My good friend the Master Chief Bosun was convinced the fog was only in close to shore and we would clear it. Myself and my other buddy are Engineers and neither of us was wanting to risk it without radar. On top of everything else I was not comfortable with the time window and having a single sterndrive with no backup. The decision was made to stay! Even tied up in the municipal marina the boat was tossed around quite a bit. All of the dock lines were found to have melted slightly around the cleats. We ended up getting a ride back to Michigan City with one of the Coasties to bring the truck and trailer up to get the boat. Grand Haven is a beautiful town built close to the marina so one can walk everywhere. I will definitely stop there again. The storm lasted about 30 hours during which I managed to read a book about Great Lakes shipwrecks that I picked up in town. A good read that convinced me staying in port was the right thing to do.

Randy.

[jdoskoch]

Thanks for detailing your adventures here in N MI. I live in Charlevoix and have been in the market for a 22 for several summers. Right now I get around in a 15ft Mirrocraft. Just not many for sale around here (considering used only w/Wallas) and my wife won't let me fly across country to see one.

NFH... if you get up here again and would consider taking me for a trail run, I would be very thankful and supply some tasty local treats (microbrew, smoked whitefish +...).

Hey does anyone know the owners of Reunion (22 Cruiser)? It summers here on Lk Charlevoix (winters in FL) but the owners didn't respond to a note I left last summ

[Not For Hire]

Jdos,

Probably won't be back to C-voix this year. Still a working stiff. Will be going to MN in Sept and a few fishing days at Manistee between now and then (I hope). Maybe in late Oct I will have a last fling near the Straits.

Can you get to NY? Several boats will be at the Erie Canal. Some are contemplating traveling on Lake Champlain. That would be a good test ride for you.

Mark

[C-batical]

Randy:

We have a C-Brat member who owns a marina in Noblesville, Indiana, which is just north on Indianapolis. His name is Craig and he owns Rabidfish Marine. Craig is a great guy who is always willing to help out and has helped me several times even though he was not a C-Dory dealer when I bought my boat. He had a used 22 footer recently for sale. He is listed as a member of this site as Rabidfish, His email is:boatfix@rabidfish.com. Website is: http://www.rabidfish.com.

Best Regards,
Rollie C-Batical