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Wallas Stoves and Battery Monitors
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MOOSE



Joined: 07 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 3:53 pm    Post subject: Wallas Stoves and Battery Monitors Reply with quote

I was thinking about adding a battery monitor to ensure that I have sufficient voltage to get the Wallas started. I first spotted the Xantrex Link 20 Two-bank Monitor, but this may be way more than I need. And then I saw the BlueSea Multiple Bank Digital Voltmeters and this looks like a better deal, monetarily at least. What, if anything, do the rest of you folks use to monitor battery condition?
Al

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True Story



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I installed the digital volt meter you described in my boat a couple of months ago. Cost and ease of installation swayed me towards the Blue Sea. I use it to confirm my batteries are charged before taking the boat out and to understand the state of charge on the house battery when anchored up for extended periods. It's also serves as a quick check that my onboard battery charger and alternator are working as designed.

FYI. I've checked the readings against my hand held volt meter and found the onboard meter consistently reads .05 to .1 volts higher. Snot a big deal. Tim
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Adeline



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Al, Having an accurate voltmeter is a must when using the Wallas, IMO. I started off with a Professional Mariner 4 bank analog but wanted more accuracy. So i removed the meter and popped in a Blue Seas Digital Voltmeter. I only wish it displayed 100ths volt instead of 10ths.
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ccflyer



Joined: 19 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I installed two "Stinger SVMB Digital LED's" about $30 each at Hifisoundconnection.com.

Really simple to install - three wires - one to the pos & neg on the battery and the third to th accessory switch on the panel. Plus the black gauge with the blue digital read out looks really cool. I'll post a photo in the next day.
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ccflyer



Joined: 19 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 30, 2006 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I posted a photo of the "Stingers" in my album.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 30, 2006 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ccflyer--why is the house battery reading 12.2 volts. In my book this is 50% discharged. Why two meters, rather than one with a switch?--even three way.

Incidently in the past, the Professional Mariner was notorious for producing RF interference on Ham radios and Marine SSB....

We have never had a problem with low battery voltage and the Wallas--even sitting for 3 days with no engine running, the stove starts up every time. The stove battery was very close to the stove.

I agree that it would be nice to have a meter which reads to hundredths of a volt. The question is: which is more accurate the DVM or the in the dash meter? I have found some variance in various digital meters.

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Thataway
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ccflyer



Joined: 19 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 30, 2006 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used two gauges because, at $30 a pop, it just seemed it would be easier than adding a switch.

After installation the gauges matched my digital volt meter readings.

And yes, this is the fourth season on these batteries which is one reason why I put in the gauges and always carry a portable back up.
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MOOSE



Joined: 07 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 30, 2006 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What size wire do you guys use to connect your gauges to the batteries? The Blue Sea 3-Bank voltage monitor calls for 16 ga. wire. The instructions also say that if the monitor is installed more than a "few feet" away from the batteries, that one should use a separate positive wire to power the unit and one for voltage sensing; otherwise the two terminals on the monitor could be jumpered together. Should I be concerned about voltage drop in 16 ga. wire running from the monitor on the dash to the port lazarette?
Al
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thataway



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 30, 2006 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 16 wire is fine for the sense--but I would put at least an extra 14 guage wire for the power to the electronic circuit on the battery meter.

I would be uncomfortable with a battery which read 12.2 or 12.4 volts resting several hours after a charge. I like to see 12.6 to 12.7 at least on the resting batteries.
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True Story



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 01, 2006 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ran a seperate run to power the unit and used 14 ga. for all as I already had it in hand. I'm not sure I'd worry about voltage drop Moose as it's all relative. At the end of the day as I understand it (provided were not operating in cold temperatures and our batteries are in good shape), we effectively have one volt to play with. After fully charging my batteries, my meter shows a voltage of 12.8 after losing the surface charge. I know I should be charging the battery once the meter reads 12.3 or so and feeling sorry for myself if it reads 11.8.

Tim
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Casey



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 01, 2006 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We had Les (EQ Marine) install a Xantrex Link 20 on Naknek a couple years ago, and although maybe a bit of overkill - really enjoy it. Good and realiable voltage read-outs (obtainable via other, cheaper methods...), and I like being able see the Ah drawn down or recharging state.

Again, maybe a bit of overkill, but I find it useful.

Casey
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...enjoying "Canada Day" in Ocean Falls, BC !
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Swee Pea



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2006 5:56 pm    Post subject: Battery Monitor Reply with quote

I have been following this thread with interest. Would like to have a simple battery monitor. Came across this unit, on sale at Cabela's.


Would one of you more electrically minded chaps take a look and voice your opinion?

Thanks in advance.

John
Swee Pea
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ccflyer



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2006 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The issue I'd have with the Cabella product is that it's LCD - which means after dark I'll need to have another light source to get a reading.

BTW: all this talk of proper voltage - and the iffy readings on my 3+ year old batteries - prompted me to order a Blue Top Optima - I'll post the readings after use as a house battery later in the season.

Phil
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thataway



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2006 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "in dash" unit has back lighting--so it would be fine after dark. However they seem to moniter in %--I would rather know the volts, than %. I have several different instruments which give voltage--Fish finders, GPS etc--and sometimes they read erronously. I attribute this to corrosion or smaller than proper wiring to that instrument, rather than the state of the batteries--until proven otherwise. I'll have to check and see if there is some way that these guages can read voltage--I suspect that they use standard tables for voltage, and don't measure amps in and out, as the link systems do.

We found that with full time cruising we would replace the battery banks every 4 years--often this decision was at the time we would be making a passage across an ocean--and it was critical that we have optimal battery performance.

We have found that at times Sams, Costco has good golf cart batteries--but at other times they are lighter in weight than, for example Trojans. The quality of a battery will vary with its weight--because the heavier battery will have thicker lead plates. So, check the weights and see if you can find who the manufacturer is.

I am not totally convinced that AGM batteries are the ideal, except in a situation where you will not be using the boat for a long time (low self discharge rate), or where you will have the battery in the living quarters, with no outside vents. If the battery has to be mounted on its side, then definately the AGM fits the bill. The problem with Gel cells, is their sensivity to over charging voltage. If the voltage is over 14.1 volts they are toast very rapidly...
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MOOSE



Joined: 07 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I just completed installation of the BlueSea 3 Bank monitor and, to my utter amazement, it actually works and I didn't blow anything up in the process. It reads within one or two hundreths of what the multimeter shows directly at the batteries. It's a nice unit.

Now, here's the key question: What is the minimum voltage required to ensure the Wallas starts the first time? I have a 125 DU.
Al
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