Wallas, Overheating - Red light flashing

[Jeff and Julie]

I read through the Wallas topics and couldn't really find this one covered.
We have run our Wallas twice now. The first time it seemed to run fine, we only ran it maybe 40min.
Today, the stove would run for about 30 min and then the red light would start to blink. SHut the stove down, waited 10 min to restart and experienced same, about 30 min running. The manual (not much info) advises that this is an overheating signal but doesn't tell you what to check?? Has anyone else experienced this?

Also, is the countertop in front of the Wallas supposed to get hot to touch?

Thanks!!
Jeff and Julie

[Alyssa Jean]

First thing I would suggest is to check the power to it and make sure you are not giving it less voltage than it needs. I seem to remember that if it gets low power it shuts down.

[Jeff and Julie]

Thanks David. We will check this out tomorrow.

Julie

[Jeff and Julie]

Okay, got a little ahead of myself there.
I have a voltage meter. Where, how should I hook this up to check voltage?
I appreciate all the help!
Julie

[SEA3PO]

You can hook your volt meter to the battery connection where it enters the stove... I don't own a stove like yers so I don't know if it has exposed terminals.... if not, you can stick a straight pin through the hot wire going into the unit and that will work just fine....it will punture the insulation and contact the feed wire... your meter will measure voltage from a hot wire and a good ground...you probably can just use the stove as the ground...anything metal..the current will run through the meter and it will not allow enough current to flow to spark...so don't worry.. you can not even feel 12 volts..

What you should see is just over 12 volts...if the motors are running it may be as much as 13 to 14.5 volts.... no need to have the motors running though.. now turn on the stove..and look at the voltage... it may drop to 11 but not much below.... I would suspect that if it were 9 or 10 the stove would overheat and shut off...

Hope this helps

Joel
SEA3PO

[Jeff and Julie]

Thank you very much for your reply Joel!! We will try this tomorrow.

Julie

[Dora~Jean]

Julie,

Unfortunately I have no active experience with a Wallas YET(!). I'm installing a Wallas heater unit right now. But from what I understand, the cooktops have a temperature sensor that will indicate an overheat condition and shut down like you describe. I don't believe you said whether or not you were cooking or had the lid down in the heater mode (fan blowing over the cook surface). If your not cooking, then you should have the lid down to circulate air and cool the cook surface. If you're doing all that right, is the fan working?

Others more knowledgable will have other ideas I'm sure.

[Jeff and Julie]

Steve, Good questions!! We were using the stove in "heater mode". The lid was down and the fan was running just great. I could hear the stove clicking at regular intervals so I guess that means fuel was sending. The counter in front of the stove shure gets warm when the lid is down and the heater is on.
We are going down to the boat today, after Easter breakfast, and will check out the voltage.

Julie

[CAVU]

Julie,
On my 2002 model, the counter in front of the stove has a high 3/4" teak lip right in front of the stove blower. I couldn't find the post with a search, but I seem to remember someone elevating the wallas with a thick shim in order to get better air flow? This would probably keep the counter from getting so warm. Have you tried turning the stove down a little to prevent the overheating, although with the fan running I don't think it should overheat even at max temp setting.

[SEA3PO]

I've got a router that would make short work out of that lip in front of da heater.... Chop-chop

Joel
SEA3PO

[CAVU]

Joel,
If I used my wallas as a heater very often, I think I would agree with you.
However I find the lip handy to keep little items from rolling off the counter.

[TyBoo]

I raised my stove up a little less than an inch to get the fan to blow over the top of the counter edge for better air distribution.

I think the overheat shutdown is more because of the underside of the stove getting too warm rather than the top getting too hot. That is usually caused by not enough air getting under the counter. C-Dory cuts a slot in the front of the galley cupboard to allow air in. The next time you run the stove, try it with the cupboard door open (if you have one) or some other means of allowing more air to the stove underside.

[Alyssa Jean]

Mike, how about a couple of pics and some details about what you used to raise the Wallas. I have always thought that the 3/4" lip inhibited the airflow out of the Wallas with the lid down.

[TyBoo]

David, I took a page out of your book for the project. Well, I used oak instead of teak. I just cut four strips of oak to 3/4" x 7/8" and made a frame to go around the stove under the mounting flange. The back strip has a couple notches in it to clear the back end of the side stove rails, it's srewed together, and I used longer screws for the stove hold down so they go through the wood. There was some reason I used 7/8" high instead of some other dimension, but I can't remember what it was.

I think you're right about the air flow being restricted some. The slot is pretty narrow in the lid, and the teak edge did get a little warm. My biggest complaint was the hot air was deflecting upward (where the heat wants to go anyway) and not warming the folks sitting at the dinette. I really think the whole cabin warms up quicker with the air blowing straight out into it instead of bouncing off the wood and the ceiling.

I really doubt it is contributing to the overheat problem these folks are having. Under the galley beneath my stove I made wood drawer box that is just a couple inches beneath the stove. I insulated it with some exotic stuff, and installed a large-area vent in the cabinet front. But I have found that I need to keep the lid blower running even with the lid open to draw in enough air to prevent shutdown (I just bent the tang that hits the fan switch so it doesn't shut off). Next time I am in the project mode I am junking the tall cabinet under there and doing something else for the drawers.

I will get some pics next trip down to the boat. You'll be proud of me for the looks of the galley front.

[TyBoo]

OK - here's the Wallas elevator:



You can also the large vent with SS screen right beneath the stove, the recessed control panel to the right of that, and the hot/cold water valves for the sink to the left with the switches for the respective pumps (and an inverter) between them.