Surge Brakes Locked Up

[ggray]

2007 22 Cruiser, 2007 MagicTilt trailer with Dexter UFP A-70 surge brakes.

Background, I have owned the boat and trailer for 4 plus years now, and have launched or retrieved the boat maybe 6 times on the middle to lower Chesapeake with somewhat salty water. Minimal rinsing afterwards. Unknown dunkings by POs previously, but last PO was on Pamlico, so not very salty at all. Anyway, last summer the brakes rusted locking both wheels, and needed both calipers replaced.

After that expensive repair, I was determined to rinse well after dunking. Which I did after the only retrieval last year, and drove a few (unneeded) miles with several stops to dry the brakes. So I'm dismayed that the brakes are locked up again, preventing the wheels from rolling forward or reverse. I am pulling on gravel now, and maybe a hard surface will force the wheels to turn.

I want to make sure I fully understand the braking system. I understand how surge brakes work, and am now using one of those magnet secured devices that prevent the tongue from "telescoping" and applying the brakes. What I want to find out is if there is any electrical part to this braking system. I don't think there is, but the wiring has an extra (a fifth) wire. I've never had a trailer with brakes before this one, and am trying to learn.

So that's my question to the group. The only other reason I can think of for the brakes being locked is that prior to my buying the magnet device, I tried to back the boat + trailer very slowly into the parking spot. However before reaching the spot, the brakes locked. I rolled forward a bit to uncouple from the trailer, but I wonder if the brakes remained locked for the last 4 plus months and now won't release.

[Donald Tyson]

I'm kind of in the same boat so I'll be watching this post. While my wheels spin nicely and the brakes work well I have to remember not to park downhill in a spot where I have to back out of later. They'll lock up pretty easily back up hill.
I find Surge brakes work best on other peoples cars,lol. And I can't wait to convert them to Discs.

[T.R. Bauer]

Normally one would lock out the actuator when backing up to prevent the rear brakes from engaging. Obviously, there are times when this isn't needed, but if there is enough force to move the actuator, then it is going to engage the brakes and it's going to do everything everyone has noted. So, if parked for an extended time or even a short time? Yeah stuff could rust together for sure. I've seen lots of them like that at the launch....I always hit the throttle in drive when parking to make sure the brakes are not on when parking. And then get out and look to make sure the brake actuator isn't engaged before I walk off because it has happened to me on several occasions with several different trailers. I think with some tapping with a hammer you will be able to free them if it isn't too bad.

[ssobol]

Surge brakes should have a solenoid that is activated by the circuit for the backup lights on the tow vehicle to prevent the brakes from coming on when reversing the trailer. If this solenoid is not working, you can have some trouble backing up, especially if going uphill.

When parking, after you back into a spot, you should pull forward a little to make sure that the brakes are disengaged.

Using stainless steel disc brake calipers can help prevent lockups because they are less likely to corrode.

Rinsing the brakes after anytime they are immersed can help. Even fresh water can have lots of sediment in it that can gum up the brakes if it is allowed to sit.

[thataway]

Surge brakes are often disc brakes. The "extra" wire is the lock out switch when you back--it keeps the brakes from engaging in revers. It is usually applied to back up lights circuit. First I would check and see if it engages (has voltage) on back up.) to lock the brakes out on back up.

I am not familiar with a "magnetic device". I drill a hole, if not already drilled between the coupler and trailer tongue, to put a bolt in when in reverse (back up if the lock out in reverse fails).

Using salt away, spraying the discs right after bringing the trailer out of the water (both on launch and retrieval is best. If you have drum brakes, then a fitting to allow spraying inside the drum and caliper. Tapping the brakes right after you bring the boat out of the water does two things, It helps to dry the brakes, and it makes sure the boat is fully seated on the trailer, Good to check the winch, stern lie down, and a good walk around to check wheels, tires etc before getting on the road.

[Schuster]

That 5th wire you mentioned is for the backing up. When you shift into reverse it should engage the solenoid which disengages the brakes and allows you to back up without the brakes locking up. I'm not near my trailer right now so can't tell you exactly how it is wired. I do remember having to wire it up on my truck before I departed for the trip home from New Mexico to Washington state. My trailer plug is a 4 prong plug with an extra separate wire for the backup solenoid. I had to purchase a little 12 or 14 gage wire and a bullet connector to make the connection. easy peasy.
As far as brakes sticking, I would check the brake adjustments to make sure they are not overly tight. Generally jack up the wheel so tire is off the ground, tighten up the brake till the wheel is locked and you can't turn it by hand. Then back off on the star adjuster 6 turns until the wheel turns freely with only slight intermittent brake contact. Repeat of all brakes on the trailer. Check with the brake manufacturer for their specific directions for instructions as yours may be different. You may want to make sure that the breaks are not engaged when parked by chocking the tires and pull forward against the chocks to ensure the tongue has released the breaks.

[thataway]

I have no idea if the "magnetic device" which apparently holds the coupler from moving foreward when the vehicle is in reverse works. The lock out solenoid is a valve which prevents the surge brake coupler from applying any hydraulic pressure, and should be more fool proof than the "magnetic Key" (the magnetic part applarently holds the plastic which blocks the coupler in place.). I feel that the lock out selenoid is far better, or the bolt keeping the coupler from moving is also very reliable.

The idea of tapping the drum all of the way around with a hammer is a good suggestion. When possible, tear the drum brake and coupler down and rebuild. Something is not working correctly to lock the brakes up if they were dry and clean when you parked the trailer. I also repack the wheel bearings before any long trip or each season.

[ggray]

Thanks for the replies. It will be a while before I can return to the boat/trailer, but I'll be prepared to jack up the wheels and see what is going on.

This Dexter unit had a disc/cap over top of the brake fluid reservoir that should be rotated when backing up. The original one functioned in this manner until it broke. The replacement won't rotate far enough to prevent braking while backing up. That's why I bought one of these things as suggested by the Honda OB mechanic:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=surge+brake+lockout&hvadid=580689137437&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9008473&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1480485156760866520&hvtargid=kwd-14820962989&hydadcr=7472_13212145&mcid=28c1d38aa3f936e38191b31c61b4c955&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_8ajqr5oqsp_e

This may not look up to the task, but it has a significant magnet holding it in place.

So do all surge brakes have a lockout solenoid? I considered the possibility that the five wire harness may have been standard on all Magic Tilt trailers but since there is a "back-up" devise already integrated, the fifth wire was not used.

The trailer wire adaptor I just used provides for only 4 wires. I have another (which I can't find now) but I think it's only 4 wires as well. So if I do have a solenoid, I don't think it has been energized in my usage.

Come to think of it, the Honda shop didn't even use a car or truck to move my trailer. He used a tractor with a ball on the front end lift. He told me about the above magnet, but his had been accidentally carried off on a customer's trailer. He was using a big C-clamp on the tongue blocking the actuator from "actuating".

[Donald Tyson]

Gosh, It almost seems like if they were invented today they'd never be allowed on the road.
There is a lot to address and examine here. I also need to go look now and see what it is exactly, that I have on my trailer, learn it and stop taking it for granted.

For instance I didn't know there was a lockout. I had never heard of the magnet thingy, and I have never had (thankfully) the system lock up. Lucky I guess.

[-Waypoint-]

I second that what Bob said, spray salt away on your brakes and disks. Or any soapy mix, simple green works too.

The soap will keep the metal from rusting together. Divers welding under water, dip their welding leads in a bucket of soap to prevent surface rust while on lunch break. It works!

[ssobol]

[thataway]

With only 4 wires engaged (tail lights/running lights, left turn signal, right turn signal and ground.

If you have a lockout solenoid in place, you should be able to see it, and the wire running to it. When the vehicle is shifted into reverse, you should head a "click'" as the solenoid closes the valve in the hydraulic line.

Below is a picture of the "magnet" and piece in the slot to prevent the coupler from moving back,



The magnet does nothing but hold what appears to be a piece of plastic which fits in a slot, and should keep the coupler from sliding back and engaging the break actuator. If the plastic was a coating on a metal fitting and it was itself a magnet, then it might be reliable.

The Dexter A-70 comes with a lock out solenoid. I would at least give it a try--a lot easier than putting a "key" in a slot, to possibly be lost. But if it works--great!

[ggray]

Actually, it's a pretty robust piece of hardware. It's not a piece of plastic, it's a piece of steel welded to the shallow cup holding a powerful magnet.

Regardless, when I checked the trailer Monday (moved it around using the magnet in place, and NOT connecting any trailer wiring) the brakes were not locked. I'm not investigating anything now, will just launch in a week or so when I'll be able to look at the brakes better.

[thataway]

Thanks; good to hear that there is a heart of "steel" in the "lockout" key. I would still prefer a pin thru the coupler--which is what I have always used--but that is certainly one good solution.