A Hunkydory Adventure on a 22 cruiser

[Hunkydory]

The following is mostly from the boats log. We know very little about boats, logs and most things nautical. We had learned just enough to dare to make this trip.

This trip took place in 2004. Our 2003 Alaska-Yukon trip gave us the confidence to attempt this one. If interested, our 2003 trip is described under C-Brats Cruises and Gatherings, Upper Yukon River.

6-11-04 Left home for Alaska at 8:15 pm after many months of planning. Night at rest stop in Montana 350 miles from home.

6-12-04 Jo-Lee's birthday and on the road. She with a very happy day. Any day on the road starting a adventure is a wonderful day. Saw moose, many deer and elk, sheep and 3 bears. Rain on & off all day still very scenic drive. 734 miles.

6-13-04 More rain than not all day, that brought out the bears. Saw 11 bears along the road and a cow & calf moose. Arrived Prince Rupert 5:15 pm. Found launching docks at Rushmore Marina. Got the boat ready to go for morning. Stayed night at the same campground we stayed in 2000 when coming from Alaska on the ferry. 636 miles.

6-14-04 Couldn't get hold of person who was supposed to store pick-up and trailer. Found a better place only 1/4 mile from marina. $30 a week. Left Prince Rupert 11am. Some light rain & wind a little chop. Out through Venn Passage up to and checked out Port Simpson in case if needed later for fuel and supplies. Not much there. Fuel available at times. Around Father Point up steamer passage to Khutzmateen inlet to the Khutzmateen Grizzly Bear Preserve. This land given by the local tribe to the Canadian Government. and then patrolled by Rangers from that tribe. They were very informative and helpful. Arrived at the preserve 3 pm. Saw 3 bears. One huge male. This place is well worth the side trip. Anchored for night at the head of the inlet with several other boats all much larger than us. 64 miles.

6-15-04 Anchor up, a cup of tea and gone by 04:30 Alaska time. No early morning bears. Smooth crossing of West Dixon. Fueled and cleared customs in Ketchikan. From Ketchikan up Clarence Strait, across Earnest Sound up Eastern Passage to Wrangle. A little rough in the afternoon smoothed out in the passage. Saw and filmed dull porpoise. Arrived at Wrangle 05:30pm. No Harbor master and the fuel dock shut down until 8am. Found spot to dock for the night. Will wait for food and fuel to open before heading up Rocky Pass . Weather supposed to be good, warm and clear, little wind. 214 miles.

6-16-04 Up 6am waited for fuel dock to open at 8. Bought groceries and fishing tackle. Left for Quake 9:30am. Saw 1st whale outside entrance to Rocky Pass. Rocky Pass very pretty and much easier to navigate than I thought it would be. Arrived Kake fuel dock 2:30pm. 95 miles from Wrangle. After fueling tied up on back side of Alaska Ferry dock to walk into town. Very little room at fueling dock and what there was, was all taken up by a very large yacht. This is a small native town with very friendly people and uneasy access. Went through Kuei Islands on way to Red Bluff Bay. Was glad for good charts and gps. Tops of islands in tidal zone very ragged. Warm, clear blue skies and no wind all the way to the bay. Saw several whales outside the entrance to Red Bluff Bay. After dropping anchor, went for row in dingy, then pulled it up the bay inlet river about 1/2 mile. Very fun beautiful ride back down. This is one place not to miss on any trip up the passage. 45 miles from Kake to Red Bluff Bay. 140 miles today.

6-17-04 Left Red Bluff Bay 7:30am. Crossed Chatham Strait to Admiralty Island with clear skies, but rough water. We were very happy to enter Chapin Bay. This is a beautiful little very protected bay. Here we used our sun warmed shower for the 1st time. For comfort had to add a little stove heated water. Worked well. Very little wind close to south side of island so explored Eliza Inlet and Papas Bay. Mainly looking for bears to film. No bears I think due to the warm weather. Many shy whales on the outside of the bays. Due to the lack of bears, crossed Stephens Passage by the The Brothers Islands to Port Houghton, up to inlet. Went to shore. I walked approximately 4 miles checking out tidal river passage to upper salt chuck. This little lake is about 1/2 mile by 1 1/2 miles. When tide is out there's a large swift river running out. When the tide comes in its just the opposite. At a later time we plan to go in and spend the night on a slack tide. Whole area has extreme bear sign but I didn't see any bears. While walking I was very alert. Spent night anchored at inlet on head of Sanborn Canal. Saw one black bear just before dark. This is the one spot that Don Douglass & Reanne Hemingway-Douglas book "Exploring Southeast Alaska did not measure up to there descriptions in either wildlife or scenery in our opinion. The salt water chuck sounded more like there description of the Sanborn Canal. 130 miles today.

6-18-04 Up 3:30am to leave to Juneau for fuel. 90 miles to Juneau. Several large ice bergs going up Stephens passage. Following fueling, tried again to go up Taku Inlet and river. Made it much further than last year, but still to shallow to go where we wanted. After getting out of boat several times to get off mud bars and jet boats going by gave up and headed back down Stephens Passage to Tracy Arm Inlet. Anchored for night in cove just north of the split between Tracy and Endicott Arms. Averaged 4 miles per gallon on our last run. 173 miles today.

6-19-04 up 600am for slow run up Tracy Arm. Trying to dodge ice bergs and watch the unbelievably beautiful cliffs, water falls, sun shining on turquoise water and ice berg of all shapes and sizes. Hit one small bergy bit fairly hard. Some cause for concern, but with no water coming in and no apparent damage continued on. Went to both North and South Sawyer Glaciers. Made it very close to the faces of both. On south sawyer a large section gave way and created large wave. Many seals. Washed the salt off boat windows twice in waterfalls. After coming back down Tracy Arm went up Endicott Arm and into Fords Terror Inlet. Previous mentioned guide book said not to go in entrance in anything [got interrupted-we are at anchor in west arm Fords Terror and black bear came down 20 yds from shore and 50 yds from boat. Stopped writing to film.] but high water slack tide. We came in mid ebb tide, with no problems. Very similar to Yukon river. Saw another bear on east arm fords terror. Tried a little fishing with no luck. Fords Terror has very high cliffs and water falls with a narrow canal. Inner inlets are so beautiful I don't think the camera can do them justice. No other boats or people on endicott arm or fords terror. 107 miles today.

6-20-04 Up 6:45 with a bear on the bank by us. Watched and filmed it until 10am then pulled anchor and under way. Very bad crossing of fords terror outlet. I felt so far the guide book had way over estimated the dangers and difficulties. We felt in most cases they were alluding to conditions effecting a much larger boat with much deeper draft. Here they got it dead on, for most any boat. Went out during low ebb tide and couldn't see how bad the rapids were until to late. I would compare it to at least the Colorado river in the grand canyon. Fortunately we didn't hit bottom. Over a water fall of I don't know how many feet. In and out of several large holes. Our center window was open and Jo-Lee was filming. The water deluged through the window soaking our computer navigational system both our video and digital cameras. After gathering our wits and being very thankful to have survived called our son on the sat phone to see if He thought the computer might work after drying. I think we already knew the answer. Just wanted to here his voice. Now to navigate with our limited experience we had a little garmin e map and lowrance gps, with charts and routes I had made and printed before the trip. We made for Petersburg 109 miles away. There is a electronic repair place here in Petersburg, so will take the computer and cameras there with fingers crossed tomorrow at 8am. Jo-Lees feet are swollen and She hasn't felt good , so She going to Dr, while I'm at the electronic repair place. Boat in North Harbor for night. 114 miles today.

6-21-04 Up 6:30 am. Walked up to commercial electronics's with computer to see about repair. Beyond hope with saltwater damage. Tried to order refurbished computer through phone-couldn't. Electronics company agreed to let me order it on their computer tomorrow and have it shipped to them, for us. Called home to have sister in law ship our nobletech software and codes to express. Will try 1st to put old hard drive in new computer.

Dr. says Jo-Lees swollen feet and legs are probably due to the extreme altitude change. She had also picked up giardia from most likely Yellowstone Lake, before we left Wyoming. She was given medicine for both ailments. We sure hope it works.

Bought grocerys and three, six gallon gas containers. Will now have 100 gallons, when topped off.

Canon vidio camera is ruined, hoping film in camera up to Fords Terror incident is not. Konica minolta dimage 600 digital camera quit working. I checked it out again today and it seems to be ok. Hope it really is.

Programmed Gambier Bay on Admiralty Island routes into garmin E map gps. Bought charts of Gambier Bay. If weather holds, will go there for a few days while waiting for new computer nobetech software. Many miles on feet walking around town.

6-22-04 Back to commercial electronics to order computer. Now must wait. Payed dock fee. $18 for 2 nights. Fueled new containers and headed out for Gambier Bay. 60 miles there and 38 miles cruising Gambier. No bears. Changed props to adjustable propulse to get proper rpm with extra fuel. Night at inlet on east side of Gambier Bay. Gps routes and charts worked well. Through some tight shallow places. Missed the nobletech program which lets us know the state and direction of tides. 98 miles today.

6-23-04 Left Gambier Bay and cruised up Seymore Canel to Pack Creek Bear Observatory. Explored pleasant, mole and windham inlets. All beautiful. Talked to Rangers at Pack Creek, they said , it cost $20 apiece to come ashore. They had seen only one bear that morning early, so we declined. They also said the wheather was keeping the bears away. Left Pack Creek, back out Seymore , crossed Stephens Passage to Houghton Inlet. Up to the head Houghton, caught the tide just right so up the tidal river to upper basin. Dropped anchor for night and started fishing. Caught a small halibut. While continuing to fish I saw a very large grizzly come out to shore across inlet. Quickly pulled anchor, went over and watch bear up very close. No more than 25 yds. Wonderful experience!! Also many seals in basin. They were around us jumping and splashing all night. Probably had never seen a boat before. At one time there was over a dozen around us, checking us out. Fantastic day!!! Crossing Stephens early in day, saw many whales and dull porpoise up close again. 130 miles today

6-24-06 Up 4:30 am looking for bear from last night or others. Nothing but seals. When tide was right approximately 5:45 went down tidal river with no problems. Checked out Sanborn Canal again. No wild life there. Started back around Cape Fenshaw, heading back to Petersburg and ran into heavy fog with fairly rough sea. Visibility very poor. Not only got to use the radar, but would have likely been in serious trouble with out it. The rocks came out along way from Fenshaw Cape. The radar kept us from the rocks the gps didn't show. Back to Petersburg 12:30pm. Computer still not here. Jo-Lee feeling much better. The medicine is working. We took very enjoyable slow walk around all the boats at the docks. Many eagles. l3 in one spot. Night at the dock. 78 miles today.

6-25-05 Back to electronic store 11 am, no computer. but software was at the Post Office. Bought marine atlas of inland channel and more fishing lures. A couple we met told us where to go to catch them and what to use.

Got phone number of local mail delivery used by fed ex. Computer is in Anchorage and should be here by Monday morning. Will call City Cargo cell phone Monday morning at 09:30. He said if it is here to meet him at the Post Office.

Plan to go south through Wrangle Narrows to small bay west of Thorne Island in Morning. Plan to be back here Sunday afternoon.

6-26-04 Left Petersburg 5:30 am. Down Wrangle Narrows across Sumner Strait, then down through small islands to Whale Passage on back side of Thorne Island. Unbelievable coho salmon fishing. Caught to many to count. Fished until I could no longer cast. Right elbow hurting to much. Kept 2 for eating. Night at anchor on small bay 1/2 mile from area we were fishing. 64 miles today.

6-27-04 Back to Peterburg. Got there early, so off to Laconte glacier. Had been raining all the way back from whale passage and it turned to fog on way to glacier. Would not have gone, had we not heard on radio, Empress Of The North, a huge paddle wheeler was going there. We got in behind and followed her across the bar and up to about 2 miles from glacier. There the ice completely blocked the inlet. Ice burgs much larger than Tracy Arm. Stayed longer than the Empress. Back to Petersburg through fog using radar and gps tracks from inward trip. Could see well enough to avoid ice burgs. 107 miles today.

6-28-04 10 am, picked up new computer from City Cargo. Nobletech installed and finally ready to go 5 pm. Back down Wrangle narrows, across Sumner Strait, down Snow Passage, and then down Clarance Strait to Ratz Harbor, on Prince William Island. Arrived there 10 pm, just before dark. One fishing boat came in after us. Saw several whales. One was breaching. We are about 50 miles north of Ketchican. 75 miles today.

6-29-04 Rough night. Had to pull anchor and move across harbor to get protection from winds. Was completely dark while doing this. Used sonar and nobletech charts to maneuver. Worked out well, but not without a little fear. To Ketchican for fuel and grocerys. From Ketchican to Misty Fjords National Monument. Took a nap at Shoalwater Cove then off to Rubyard Inlet followed by Walker Inlet. Was planning on spending night at Walker Inlet, but couldn't find good anchage and thunderstorms were moving through, so headed back to Shoalwater Cove. Was fully dark by the time we left outlet of Walker cove. Had full moon to check for logs and nobletech to navigate. Alittle difficult anchoring in the dark and making sure the bottom was even. Misty Fjords very beautiful but doesn't compare to Tracy Arm, Fords Terror or our salt water chuck in Port Houghton Inlet. 182 miles today.

6-30-04 Tide out and boat grounded early morning, so fueled from spare containers and made up routes for crossing Dixon if wheather holds. Hunkydory was back to floating by the time we were ready to go. Leaving Shoalwater Cove in narrow entrance way saw a grizzly on one side and directly across a black bear on the other side of channel. 98 miles to Prince Rupert. Much rougher crossing back over Dixon, about wore my arms out steering into oncoming waves. It must have been the start of some kind of Canadian fishing season, because we met over 100 fishing boats coming through Venn Passage. They gave us no right of way and forced us into the shallows several times. Just as we were coming out of Venn Passage into Prince Rupert Inlet we smelled and saw electrical smoke and the starboard engine rpm gauge quit. Had both batteries on and with all the engine rpm adjustments made while meeting the fishing boats the engine coil burned out. To late to get parts and repair today and tomarrow is a Canadian Holiday. So ruined plans for a 3 day cruise up Observatory Inlet. Loaded Hunkydory after clearing customs and drove to Terrace, BC. 98 Miles on water. Trailered 93 miles. Rather disappointing end to this part of the trip.

7-1-04----7-5-04 1300 miles down to Jo-Lee's sister in Amboy, Washington. Spent one day with them and then 595 miles to my parents place in Potter Valley, Calif.

7-7-04 Dad, Jo-Lee and I to San Francisco Bay. Wanted to go under the Golden Gate Bridge and My Dad was stationed on Treasure Island after coming back from Guadalcanal, while in the Marines, during WW11. He wanted to see where He use to fish while on the island. Launched Hunkydory from Sausalito. There was small craft warning advisories at the entrance and in the bay, so we were concerned, but felt we could turn back if necessary. Went out under the Golden Gate and around the San Francisco water front. Circled Alcatraz and Treasure Island. Hunkydory and us do well in rough water. Very fun, memorable, and exciting day. 32 miles today on water.

7-10-04 Left Potter Valley and arrived home. 940 miles. Another adventure ended and hoping for many more.

[Rick from Maine]

Well Done! Thank you for sharing your adventures with us. I know I'll use your tales as a guide if/when I get my Hunky Dory up there. You must have marvelous photos of the Bears. Thanks again.

Rick from Maine

[Mr. Fisherman]

Very well written, thank you for taking the time.
Did teh video footage of the river make it? Sure would like to see it.

[Hunkydory]

Mr. Fisherman

Writing is not easy for me, but We enjoyed the wonderful reports so much from Naknek, Aiviq, and the Catch 22, and all the other advice and shared information from THE C-BRATS. This has helped and entertained us so much that sharing our trip is a way We can hopefully to a little something in return.

The video up to Fords Terror did survive. Also We have video from our 2003 trip. This includes traveling on the Yukon River, the water source lakes of the Yukon, and inland passage scenes. We would willingly share this video with THE-C BRATS. Do you or anyone else have a suggestion, on how?----or if possible. I had thought about making up an extra DVD and having it passed among the interested BRATS. Possibly at a future Gathering.

Jay