Mae C dead in the water

Storm Dog · Posted: Thu May 23, 2024 12:13 pm Post subject: Mae C dead in the water

Took the boat dogs and first mate on an afternoon cruise a couple days ago. Found myself on a channel to Davis Bayou Gulf Islands Seashore. Puttered up at no wake speed to the boat docks and made ready to turn around back to gulf. The Suzuki 150 stalled and refused to restart. Drifted to the dock and removed the cover. The would turn over once the the starter whined. Past couple days when I try to start it, I get 1 vroom, then the starter sound.

Last January because the water telltale wasnt emmiting I put things up it to clear it, the changed anodes, sparkplugs, oil engine and lower, fuel filter, impeller kit. I tested the engine after all the repairs, it ran well on muffs for a good 20 min. Still no pee water.

Engine still wont start. I replaced the water separator filter and bowl, the fuel line to the squeeze bulb, the squeeze bulb, new clamps al to try and insure no air was creeping into the fuel system.

The tow boat guy spoke to me on the phone, and a coastie that was boating with his family I met at the dock, both suggested a fuel problem. A counter guy at Kens Marine suggested the fuel pump.

I'm still scratching my head. Any Ideas form the collective?

ssobol · Posted: Thu May 23, 2024 2:22 pm Post subject: Re: Mae C dead in the water

T.R. Bauer · Posted: Thu May 23, 2024 2:39 pm Post subject:

The honest answer? It could be a lot of things, so you're going to have to narrow this down. And I think the telltale not emitting water probably has nothing to do with your no start condition if the engine was not overheating as they get plugged up all the time with crap. If the thing was overheating, that complicates things a bit. Some questions:

1.) Have you verified that you have adequate fuel pressure at the rail? Does it even have a fuel rail at all and instead has 4 carbs?

2.) Have you verified that the engine has spark? Is it trying to spring to life? Or is it just dead as a doornail?

3.) Have you verified that the engine has compression?

4.) Then, based on your description, I ponder if the starter is working correctly. Does the engine spin freely and sound normal as you are attempting to start it?

If the answer to any of things is that you don't know, then you are shooting in the dark. Now I doubt that a good running engine suddenly loses compression, but it does happen. Timing components do break. The modules that control that control the high voltage spark side of things do fail. And just like in your car, fuel pumps can fail.

I hope this helps, you get to the bottom of it, and it is an easy fix. Let us know what you find.

thataway · Posted: Thu May 23, 2024 3:41 pm Post subject:

The 2007 Suzuki 150 is a fuel injected engine. There are also secondary filters, including a water separator on the back of the engine--be sure that that is not full of water. Is the fuel bulb full or collapsed? If full, can you pump it and get the engine to run? Is the tank vent clear--if still not sure, loosen one of the two deck fills, the 100 gallon fuel tank can fill from either side...and opening the deck fill should eliminate the possibility of two locked fuel vents...

Fuel obstruction can be anything from debris on the pickup tube to a bad anti siphon valve on top of the tank, to obstruction at the fuel filter or water in the fuel.

It is good practice to check the fuel filter before you start out each day. If there is a clear plastic bowl at the bottom of the filter, then you may see a water/fuel interphase line. I like to drain an oz of fuel out and look at it in a clear container, to see if there is any water in the fuel.

Spark is fairly easy to check for--Pull the plugs for a visual to see if one is learn, has excessive build up etc. You can pull the plug, and then short the metal body to ground and crank the engine looking for spark.

You will see of the fuel pumps are working by taking the hose off, or getting air in the fuel water separator, as it fills back up with fuel after being emptied.

These are the simple things.

colbysmith · Posted: Thu May 23, 2024 7:57 pm Post subject:

starcrafttom · Posted: Thu May 23, 2024 9:55 pm Post subject:

agree with all above but here are my thoughts in general

Fuel, spark and air run a motor.

So start as close to the carbs or injectors as you can and pull off the fuel line to see if you got fuel. If you don't work you way o the tank on fitting at a time.

Spark in easy to check and check every plug on at a time. I had one plug that was not working on a 50hp Evinrude. Each plug has its own ignitor. One was not working but if I switch it with one of the others it ran but poorly.

Air should not be a problem unless a rat builds a nest in the air cleaner lie they did on my lawn mower, but that would have been a problem at the ramp not haft way thru the day.

As for the water flow out need to get that figured out. could be a bad impeller. could be dry salt or bugs.

"Past couple days when I try to start it, I get 1 vroom, then the starter sound." Is your starter not disengaging? Is the plunger stuck? make sure its retracting. Small hammer tapped on the side of the starter is a place to start for that.

colbysmith · Posted: Thu May 23, 2024 10:17 pm Post subject:

tsturm · Posted: Thu May 23, 2024 10:56 pm Post subject: Re: Mae C dead in the water

B~C · Posted: Fri May 24, 2024 11:07 am Post subject:

do the quick easy test first, check your battery voltage while cranking. Fuel injected, computer controlled engines will crank over but not start if the computer doesn't see a threshold voltage.

thataway · Posted: Fri May 24, 2024 1:23 pm Post subject:

The other item I did not mention, is a manual for the outboard. You can start with the Seloc or Clymer Manual for all outboards from 2.5 to 150 hp up to year 2007. That is going to cost about $60 these days. (Mine was about $35 in 2009). For about $35 more you can get the full factory service manual for the 150. You may luck out and find parts of the factory Service manual on line--for example I found the part of the FSM dealing with the lower unit, water pump, and changing gears bearings and seals in the lower housing. The Seloc manual is often enough to make the diagnosis. Unfortunately when you get into some parts of the tear down, some special tools may be necessary. I always carry one of these manuals when on longer trips--since we are more likely to have an issue remotely from where a dealer's service expertise is just not available.

Also when I had my 140 rewired by moonlighting factory service trained mechanic from a nearby dealer, he pointed out a fuse which can get corrosion or go bad which was part of the wiring harness we replaced, and not in the engine housing, which will shut down the motor--as I understood it was for over voltage. I don't recollect a similar fuse on the 150's--but a pretty good chance there is one.