Kicker Mounting Preference/Advise Needed

TheSt

I have a 16’ Angler with 40 hp Yamaha. Usage is 50/50 ocean/lake fishing/crabbing.

Starting a total restoration this summer. I will be adding fixed (self leveling) trim tabs and possibly a permatrim (whalestail) if needed.

I’m 90% sure I will be adding a 6hp Yamaha kicker. My plan is to get a long shaft (20”) and mount it directly to the transom (off-set to port) in a spot that doesn’t interfere with the trim tabs.

Anybody recommend against this or is partial to kicker jacks/plates with shorter shafts?

For once, I have a blank transom and I’d like to make the most of it.

thanks in advance.
-Nate

Danjenni · Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2023 11:07 pm Post subject:

I have a 22 cruiser with a 115 Yamaha and a T9.9 LS mounted on a kicker bracket that is higher than the transom where the main is hung. At cruise speed with the 9.9 all the way up, (power tilt) we are just barely dragging the skeg on the kicker. I don't think it is enough to cause any noticeable drag, but if it was a race boat, it wouldn’t be tolerated. Also a fully loaded boat might cause a bit of trouble also, as everything would be a little lower in the water. I may have to get another adjustable kicker bracket so it can be raised up higher!

thataway · Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2023 11:39 pm Post subject:

starcrafttom · Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2023 12:01 pm Post subject:

The only problem you might have with that 6hp is not being able to tilt it up enough so the lower unit does not drag. You wont know until you try it.

As for mounting. I take it you are not thru bolting the 6hp but using the built in clamps right?. I would use 1/4 blocks of UHMW or similar material on both sides of the transom . This will keep the small round clamps from scaring or even crushing the transom. Just glue a strip on each side of the transom long enough to cover both clamps. I have over tightened those clamps on boats by hand that crushed the fiberglass a little. Just my 2 pennies. well 6 cents these days...

TheSt · Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2023 3:47 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the feedback.

If need be (due to drag), I'll look at adding a bracket down the road.

RE Thataway: "I wonder what you are attempting to correct with the "self leveling trim tabs".

I hope to add stability. Getting on plane at lower speeds decreasing porpoising. https://bennetttrimtabs.com/product/self-leveling-tabs/

thataway · Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2023 7:25 pm Post subject:

I would argue that you can put in electric Bennett Trim tabs for your boat for about $600, which would give you control over what the boat does. Trim side to side, bow up when you wanted to go down wind and waves, or bow down when going into chop., That is what improves both the ride and safety of the C Dory 16.

If you get the "fixed"-- Bennett trim tabs, they are basically set at one of 3 positions, with a 60 lb spring (cost in the $125 range). If you have a specific handling problem, it may or may not help. If your boat is proposing then there may be some issue with the trim of the motor, placement of weight in the boat or a defect in your specific boat (such as a hooked bottom). You do not have any dynamic control over the characteristics of the boat's handling. You cannot put the bow down, or the bow up as may be required for handling in difficult conditions.

In any case be sure and do the proper installation of screws, with slight overdrive, undercut core, fill with thickened epoxy to prevent water intrusion into the core of the transom of the boat! I think it would be a shame, to find out that the fixed trim tabs didn't do what you wanted, and then to take them off, do a proper installation with more holes in the transom.