Roof rack modification help

breausaw · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 8:04 pm Post subject: Roof rack modification help

Trying to devise a way to elevate my Tender off the top of the cabin about 3 inches.
Would like to attach some cross members to the existing top rails.
Haven’t been able to locate off the shelve stainless rail clamps to make the mod, maybe someone knows a source?
I’ve been looking around the site with no success.

Help with ideas or resources much appreciated

Thanks,

doc · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 11:11 pm Post subject:

Jay, I just posted some pics I took of my brother's set-up atop his CD22, Sound Investment, in my album for C-Alaska. He has been using this for about 4 years now and seems to be holding up well. Let me know if you have questions and I can put you in touch with him. Steve

Nan-C · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:05 am Post subject:

www.bosunsupplies.com carries take-apart/hinged slide fittings that I have used. Good quality/good service.

Greg

Swee Pea · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:51 am Post subject:

If you find suitable items, let me know. Laughing

I want to do the same thing. Thanks

John
Swee Pea

1TUBERIDER · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:36 pm Post subject:

Surfboard racks could be clamped to the bars. Yakima makes a rack without the surfboard bungies. The bars can be ordered various lengths to fit your needs.
The racks usually have a rain gutter clamp which could be modified to fit. The tower is what gives your elevation and the yakima has various tower sizes. Then use the strap tie downs and you are ready to get underway.

On a budget you could mount 2 x 4 's with a ubolt and then come up with a strap tie down.

C-Green · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 2:08 pm Post subject: roof rack

I used a standard Yakima roof rack on my CD-22. I have the high top so I got the high tower model. The attachment was for the old type rain gutters and they clamped onto the grab rail with a little persuasion. Also had to put a double bend (easy to do with a vise, a little harder with visegrips) in the Yakima supplied wrench that tightens the clamps; the high top got in the way of using the wrench. Didn't need to bend the cross bars as C-Alaska did; they cleared the top center by a couple of inches.

breausaw · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 4:00 pm Post subject:

tpbrady · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 5:53 pm Post subject:

Jay,

I don't know if you saw my modification, but I took a couple of stainless steel rail mounts for a VHF antenna, welded a stainless T over the threads and added a 1 in steel tube across it with two end caps. In the center it clears the roof by about 1.5 inches. On the rear I used u-bolts to clamp the 1 inch tube to the rear vertical support of the radar arch.

breausaw · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 7:28 pm Post subject:

tpbrady · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:26 pm Post subject:

Jay,

I don't have any corrosion on mine after 5 years. You can see where the welding discolored the metal but no evidence of corrosion.

C-WEED · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:36 pm Post subject:

I made a roof rack out of cheap wood. Cost less than any mount system. Painted white. Pops on and of easily . No alteration to the boat. Very strong. Can hold anything you care to put up topside. Makes a great sun deck. Makes a great shade for the cabin in the hot South. A few pics in my album.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:07 am Post subject:

Here's Chris' roof rack and a LINK to his album with several more photos.

Nice Job, Chris. Very practical!

Joe.

breausaw · Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:47 pm Post subject:

C-WEED · Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:29 pm Post subject:

Sea-Wolf Joe, breausaw:

Thanks for the comments. I am far from any metal fabrication so cheap pine wood is what I tried. If the prototype didn't work I wouldn't be out much. I used a router to make a u-shaped channel on the two base rails. This allows them to balance above the rails. The proper height side rails will allow the middle section to just barely clear the center roof. With a load it just kisses the center for support. The five notched out areas allow access to five band clamps per side and hold everything with no holes drilled in the boat. The band-clamp screws are on the backside of the base rails. They go thru slits cut midway in the base rails. I only installed four per side and it is very strong. Brass screws hold all the parts together. I decided to keep the middle deck narrow to allow airflow when cruising waterways and on the highway. The low profile doesn't seem to noticeable, wind wise.

The slated edges allow good hand holds as well as lashing points. My boat came with very large dock bumpers. I tie one inline with the helm seat. When I motor, I just pop it on the roof without untying and it rides in the channel of the open slates. Someone here on the site suggested using paint when I asked for a coating/sealant recommendation. I used a few coats of some latex house paint I had and it is quite durable. No touch-ups yet. I think the white rack with the white boat looks good. A better paint match might be even better.

When I laid it all out on the roof I would get the spacing parallel with the cabin top on one side. Then I would measure the other side and find it off! After a bit of head scratchin. I realized the two metal rails taper in slightly as they go forward. Not much of a woodworker, but I couldn't be happier with the utility of how it turned out. Especially for the small $$$ invested.

breausaw · Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 1:23 am Post subject:

Chris,
Thanks for the further construction tutorial; I like the self portrait ZZZzzzzZZZZZ.
Defiantly gives me some ideas because I’d like to have a raised platform, will make a nice spring project when the winter covers come off.

Jay