window help!

qboat · Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2023 6:11 pm Post subject: window help!

I have three "windows" to replace on Runt. One is the lens on the hatch--that came out easily. Second is the center forward window, which is fixed--I am going to put in a top-hinged window. I have not been able to remover it--I am having a heck of a time getting whatever it is bonded in to let go. I have looked through past posts, and see this is a common problem--If anyone has advice beyond driving in thin chisels around the outside and trying to pry it away, I would be grateful. Also, I make the fiberglass around the rough opening to be 1/4" thick. Is that right?
The third is the starboard sliding window, which is badly cracked. It is laminated glass. Thanks to past posts, I was able to get it out. But whatever the handle is glued on with, I am so far unable to persuade it to let go. Any suggestions?
Finally, assuming I do get the front window out without bending the frame too much, I will be happy to give it to any one who could use it.
Thanks! Sam

C-Wolfe · Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2023 6:53 pm Post subject:

You can try to apply some heat from a heat gun to soften up the adhesive, that might help. As you work your way around, place something between the window frame and boat to keep from gluing itself back as it cool off.

ssobol · Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2023 7:09 pm Post subject:

I haven't taken out the center window, but in situations where I need to remove something really stuck on, I use a heat gun and straight razor blades. Having something as a wedge once you start getting it to let go helps.

srbaum · Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2023 6:58 am Post subject:

Sam,
On Osprey, a wiper blade fell off and the wiper arm made a smiley face into the laminated glass. I intended to replace the glass myself, but after lots of homework, deemed it better, to pay my local glass shop to do it.
The hatch on my 22 leaked and that one I took care of. It is very important, not to lock the hatch down firm, for several weeks, as the sealant takes about that look to completely cure.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album2938&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

qboat · Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2023 3:54 pm Post subject:

C-wolfe and ssobol, thanks for the heat gun tip--it helped with the window latch and I will try it on the forward window frame.
Steve, that is good advice about the hatch lens Could I ask what sealant you used?
Thanks all. Sam

ssobol · Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2023 4:57 pm Post subject:

Yeah, the problem with the window latches is that when you want them to come off they won't and when you least expect it one will pop off and end up in the drink.

thataway · Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2023 10:20 pm Post subject:

The proper sealant for the Hatch Lense is Dowsil 795

This was a subject of my talk at Hontoon. C Dory boat owners have damaged new and old lenses by using items like 5200 and other urethanes. Regular bathroom silicone will not do the job. Some have used Boat Life, Life Seal (combo urethane and silicone). The Dowsil is far better.

qboat · Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2023 9:15 am Post subject:

That is timely advice, Bob--thanks, I have ordered a tube. Any suggestion for glue to hold the latch on the sliding side window? Epoxy? Super glue?

thataway · Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2023 11:57 am Post subject:

ssobol · Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2023 12:30 pm Post subject:

PYS · Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2023 9:15 am Post subject:

If you loose the latch, Perko makes a replacement which I assume will fit for about $11.
Perko 0954DP0STS Sliding Window Handle

thataway · Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2023 11:31 am Post subject:

The Perko handle does not lock, as the Diamond Sea Glass handle does. I suspect it may not allow the window to fully close, thus allowing some water to enter the cabin. One might make the Perko handle work by grinding out an area on the widow frame.. That may have other unintended consequences.

katedavu · Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2023 4:51 am Post subject:

Thanks for the helpful info.

qboat · Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2023 1:18 pm Post subject:

I wonder if anyone can address the thickness of the cabin in front where the windows are installed. As close as I can measure it with the window in place, I get 1/4" Is that right? Seems to be solid glass. If I could get the window out, I could put calipers on it, but so far no luck. I have applied heat to the frame, but only succeeded in damage the gelcoat. Whatever that frame was stuck in with, it is stuck in good.

thataway · Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2023 1:35 pm Post subject:

The laminate is solid. It may be as thin as 3/16 or up to 1/4". There are ways to measure it with proper calipers. Use a 0 to 1" "C" micrometer caliber. Open it wide, slide over the area you want to measure and then close the caliper and read the thickness. Open the Caliper and remove.

Depend on the year, C Dory used mostly a Bostik (Marine 920 FS urethane). When I received my Tom Cat 255, someone had for gotten to caulk the cabin sides to the cabin top, although it was properly tabbed and glassed on the inside. C Dory sent me multiple tubes of this Bostik sealant. Pretty similar to 5200. I do not know if Debond will work with the Bostik, but I suspect it should. There are several agents which will soften the cured urethane sealants.