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Switching off power to Garmin reactor 40 autopilot
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pcg



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 2:54 am    Post subject: Switching off power to Garmin reactor 40 autopilot Reply with quote

For those of you that have the Garmin Reactor 40 autopilot with a helm control (GHC 20 or GHC 50), do you have a means for turning it completely off?

I'd like to be able to eliminate parasitic draw when I'm boondocking. I'm poring over the GHC 50 manual and there doesn't seem to be a means of turning the Reactor 40 completely off from that device, although you can program it to go into SLEEP mode, and the GHC 50 will be off as well anyway when boondocking.

I was originally thinking I would power the Reactor 40 from a power bus that all other electronics receive power from, and have a switch at the helm to shut off power to that bus. However, the Reactor 40 power cable requires a 40A fuse so I would need a relay if I wanted to shut it off from a switch at the helm. The problem is a 50A relay draws 3A just from coil current. I know the autopilot averages considerably more than that when in use, but I'd sure like to avoid another 3A when underway if I don't need to, particularly during long periods traveling at displacement speed when the outboard alternator is not producing a lot of current. So how are you turning your autopilot completely off when not underway?

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Karl Konecny



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could use a panel mount breaker like a Blue Sea System 285 series rated at 40 amps. They include a manual switch to open them and a reset lever. This could replace the 40 amp fuse as well.
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Peter & Judy



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have a Garmin Auto Pilot, but I do have a Raymarine. I actually replaced my entire 2005 Raymarine electronic system with a modern system including the auto pilot last year. Electrical draw when boon docking is something that I have not considered and I don't have an answer for the Garmin. But I do have a thought. I like to keep a system change like this simple. You might be able to get a toggle switch that you can mount on the helm connected to the power cable and simply switch the power off when the auto pilot is not in use. Your fuses could be separate from the power switch so that the system is still protected while in use. I have solar panels that add some power to my batteries everyday, so I don't worry about a little bit of draw, using the radio, lights etc when I am boon docking.
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Karl Konecny



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That can work but the challenge is finding a toggle switch that is rated for the 34 amps peak draw of the auto-pilot
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ssobol



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Karl Konecny wrote:
That can work but the challenge is finding a toggle switch that is rated for the 34 amps peak draw of the auto-pilot


Switch and a relay will do this nicely.

However, it seems that the system has two power connections. One for the pump and one for the electronics. I doubt that the electronics actually needs 34a.

If you are really concerned about the parasitic draws you'll want two cutoffs. However, I don't think the pump will draw any current if the electronics are off, so only one may be necessary.
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pcg



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Karl Konecny wrote:
You could use a panel mount breaker like a Blue Sea System 285 series rated at 40 amps. They include a manual switch to open them and a reset lever. This could replace the 40 amp fuse as well.
A breaker to turn off a power bus that controls all non-essential electronics with parasitic draws makes sense. i’ll have solar, but won’t always have sun, and then amp-hours become precious.
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pcg



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ssobol wrote:
Karl Konecny wrote:
That can work but the challenge is finding a toggle switch that is rated for the 34 amps peak draw of the auto-pilot
Switch and a relay will do this nicely..
Yes, but the relay itself draws 3A, and I was just trying to avoid that. I’m concerned about spending lots of hours moseying along at displacement speed and not making much current from the alternator, but still using a lot of it for refrigerator and other things. But it’s likely at those times I’d have the autopilot off anyway. I’m speaking from inexperience, not having ever done this before.
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colbysmith



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the Garmin Reactor 40 with a GHC 20 and the smart pump. I run the power for the Reactor 40 & pump off the Windlass's positive post where the main wire connects (Works great since I'm not using the autopilot and the windlass at the same time! Wink ) The 40 amp fuse for the Reactor 40 & pump is inline just off that post. That main wire comes from the battery through a breaker. It's one of those switch type breakers. Like this:
The power for my GHC 20 comes from the NMEA 2000 network, which is switched on my main switch panel. It's my understanding that when the GHC 20 is turned off, there is no power drain at the Reactor 40 and Smart Pump. That being said, I believe if pulling the 40 amp fuse is not preferred or easily accessible, installing one of those switched thermal cb's as shown in that photo above would suffice. In fact, my previous 22 had that set up just behind the helm seat for completely disconnecting the windlass. (There was also a thermal cb back at the battery's as well.) Colby
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pcg



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

colbysmith wrote:
... It's my understanding that when the GHC 20 is turned off, there is no power drain at the Reactor 40 and Smart Pump.
That would solve the problem if that's the case. I'll call Garmin on Monday and ask. Thanks.
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thataway



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want to use a relay with no or minimal power draw, a Latching relay, will have minimal if any current when engaged.

On my auto pilot, I have used a push on and off switch rated for 40 to 60 amps. A 40 amp manual breaker will do the same.

Or you can use a small switch on the electronics to the circuit board of the "brain" and leave the power intact. Many auto pilots run a separate circuit to the hydraulic pump. The 40 amps is max load--most of the time the load is only a few amps. All of this depends on the load on the steering mechanism. A tiller steered 30 hp outboard, would be a lot less than a 62' sailboat.

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pcg



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thataway wrote:
If you want to use a relay with no or minimal power draw, a Latching relay, will have minimal if any current when engaged.

Of course! Thank you!
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starcrafttom



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2023 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A honda 90 at idle puts out 35 amps to the battery. You or worrying about a none problems. many of the newer motors in this size range put out even more due to the high amount of electronic on boats today. bass and walleye fishing drive most of the tech requirements in these motors today. Mercury puts out Alternator amp / Watt 60 amp / 756 watt (Belt-Driven)

I idle on the 225hp main or the 15 hp kicker all day running radar, 2 depth finder, 2 vhfs, at least 2 cell phones, nav lights in the morning and fog and 2 cannon electric down riggers with 20lbs balls set on bottom follow ( going up and down all the time) and have never been low on juice. Yeah its a none issue not worth thinking about.

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pcg



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2023 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

starcrafttom wrote:
A honda 90 at idle puts out 35 amps to the battery. You or worrying about a none problems. many of the newer motors in this size range put out even more due to the high amount of electronic on boats today. bass and walleye fishing drive most of the tech requirements in these motors today. Mercury puts out Alternator amp / Watt 60 amp / 756 watt (Belt-Driven)

Wow, yes that changes everything. I was under the impression these motors put out far less at low RPMs.
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thataway



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2023 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Several of us who are active in this thread, Were active in a similar thread almost 2 years ago.. Tom had emailed Honda with a question about his outboard.

According to Honda specs for 2006 and before, the Honda 90 puts out 16 amps from its "alternator". When the change to EFI occurred about 2007, Honda 90's put out 44 amps and 35 is available for charging. However I doubt that much charging is available at idle.

To put this question to rest, some one only needs to use an IR thermometer to determine the alternator temperature at different speeds. Also use on the shunt monitoring devices, such as the Victron 702/712 or just the victron smart shunt. to determine exactly how much output available is for charging for your motor The shunt needs to be in series with the motor ground (Negative) and to the battery being tested, and that battery needs to be discharged significantly so that you do measure the full output. I apologize, but don't have a Honda 90 to test.

If you have the pre 2007 Honda 90 you will not have a lot of power available.
You can easily test the amount of current draw of each instrument which you are concerned about.

If you want to bring your boat to Hontoon, or make a side trip to my house before or after the gathering, I have the test gear and will be more than happy to do these tests. This is the only way to find the answer to your questions, which have not been resolved in the last 2 years.

Here is a link to a knock off of the Victron 702, which have used for several years and seems to work well.

I can briefly touch on this during my presentation at Hontoon (the topic of the primary presentation, is "Sealants, adhesives; resins and types of laminates/cores used in fiberglass boat construction.")

I will bring the shunt meter, and an IR thermometer if anyone wants to "donate" their pre 2007 Honda 90 for us to do non destructive testing upon at Hontoon.
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ssobol



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2023 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my '08 BF90D, it needs to be above ~1K rpm to get high amps out of the engine to charge the battery. At true idle the available current is much less.
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