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Sandys counterclockwise circumnavigation Vancouver Island
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kaelc



Joined: 19 Jul 2017
Posts: 411
City/Region: Saanich
State or Province: BC
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Island Magic
Photos: Stil-Afloat
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like an amazing trip. We’ll be in Tofino in 15-22nd doing some fishing and hope to get to hot springs cove. We will have the boat on the trailer so might fish out of Ukulet, but it would be great to try and meet up! If you need any fishing tips happy to walk you through. Great time for all species and there will likely be tuna and squid on the west coast, although heading offshore solo for tuna is bold!

Glad your mechanicals are sorted. I am going to stop dragging my feet and order a new starting battery thanks to your reminder.

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smckean (Tosca)



Joined: 18 Jan 2014
Posts: 974
City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2022 1:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been a while!

I knew the internet was spotty up here in Desolation and surrounds, but in truth it is basically non-existent. So I have been unable to access C-Brats. At the moment, I am at Blind Channel Marina....an out-of-the-way marina in northern Desolation Sound. Frankly, I came here, one of my rare marina stops, primarily to get Internet. But I have found Internet flakely in marinas....yes, they have it, but you can't connect half the time, and when you do connect, you often lose the internet connection (like I just did now). This marina is a bit up scale and nicely done. I just had my second meal off the boat in 3 weeks (Schnitzel). Mostly I have been hanging on the hook....sometimes in popular places such a Prideaux Haven, but mostly I hang out in little coves only a C-Dory would attempt.....and I usually have them to myself.

The last couple of days I spent at Octopus Islands...it was like camping at a mountain lake. You're so landlocked that the water is flat calm always. As I progress among these endless channels, one thing I've been loving to do is to stop the boat in the middle of one of these huge channels, if the wind is clam, and just float around....maybe have lunch. Sometimes I can't even see another boat for miles in any direction, but at the same time there are usually snow capped mountains everywhere I look.

I'm having a great time, but I do have my downer days.....you just have to power though the doubts that creep up at such times and move forward. My provisioning scheme has worked out well. I am near totally self-sufficient. This ARB freezer is a godsend. The trip the way I'm doing it would not be possible without it. I have stopped in a few marina stores and gotten goodies and fresh veggies, but primarily I live out of the freezer, dried goods, cans, and the bread I am able to bake with my clever Swedish gizmo that turns my single burner stove into an oven of sorts. I've made some pretty nice meals out of my larder if I do say so myself. OTOH, I have to say that I've not be able to live "out of the sea" as much as I had hoped, but I did catch a pink today which I filleted and will have for dinner tomorrow night.

Now I head up the Johnstone Strait (a section where there is no place to hide), and into the Broughtons. I'll have to watch the forecast carefully before I make this last dash. I will hang out in the Broughtons for a week or so, before I cross the southern part of the Queen Charlotte Strait, into Port Hardy, and then up to Balaclava Island where I will visit C-Brats Chris and Randy Shuman (of Raven) before pushing over the top of Vancouver Island at Cape Scott to start down the other side.

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Sandy McKean
Purchased Tosca in 2014
Re-powered to Yammi 200 in 2015
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20779
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2022 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sandy,
You are doing the trip the way it should be done. What a great time!

I found Port McNeill to be more cruiser friendly than Port Hardy. Laundry and grocery stores are close by.

With the 25 you should do well in the Straits-watch wind against current. That is were I have seen the more difficult sea conditions in Johnstone Straits.

Thanks for keep us all posted.

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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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NORO LIM



Joined: 24 Apr 2008
Posts: 875
City/Region: Olympia
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 23 Venture
Vessel Name: NORO LIM (sold 12/12/14)
Photos: NORO LIM
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2022 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am enjoying your account of your grand voyage. I would second Bob's comments about Port McNeil.

And that Blind Channel schnitzel is a real treat, isn't it!

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2001 CD 16, 2001-2006
2006 CC 23, 2006-2014
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2022 1:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Sandy, Here's a third for Port Mack as some call it. Way more friendly than Port Hardy. It you need to get fuel at Pt Hardy at the first station near the ferry landing, not way inside. Also, the government dock across from that is OK, IF things aren't bouncy. otherwise it is a rocknroll party.

I have been home from the island for a week, but hadto go to Portland so this is my first check in for a while. AS said, You are doing it right. Take your time, and get Randys local info on going around the corner. Best I can say is Nawhitti (sp) is due full attention. Stay closer to the Vanc Isl side. Much better. Keep up the safe cruising. And, if you think I-net was scarce in Desolation, it is shades less in Broughtons and that is way better than most of the West side. Keep that tracker on.

There are a few places to duck in out of the weather on Johnstone. Look em up and have an idea where and how far. That can go from decent to terrible in minutes.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon


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Pandion



Joined: 02 Oct 2013
Posts: 274
City/Region: Kenmore
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Osprey
Photos: Osprey
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2022 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

smckean (Tosca) wrote:
I will hang out in the Broughtons for a week or so, before I cross the southern part of the Queen Charlotte Strait, into Port Hardy, and then up to Balaclava Island ...


Sandy, like others I have found Port McNeill to generally be a better option for cruisers than Port Hardy. Grocery, restaurants, laundry, and hardware/chandlery are all within easy walking distance. I have docked at both the municipal Port McNeill Boat Harbour and the privately owned North Island Marina (my favorite). At the latter facility, earlier this month, I paid about $32 CAN a night for moorage (without power). North Harbour Marina lacks washrooms and showers. Public restroom is open at the Boat Harbour office during business hours; you can also pay there to use their subpar showers.

When I was at Port McNeill, week before last, the North Island Marina was full up—no room for another boat. So it might be a good idea to have someone make a reservation for you (someone you can contact with your inReach).

If you haven't been to Alert Bay, I highly recommend a stop there before heading into Port McNeill or Port Hardy. No gas, but an OK grocery, and a really wonderful museum, the U'mista Cultural Centre, which has a fine collection of historical native art. The dockmaster at Alert Bay Boat Harbour has been able to find space for me every time I've been in there. Phone him or call on Channel 66A. Very nice, 24/7 restroom/shower at the head of the dock. Code comes with your very low docking fee.

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Andy Ryan

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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2022 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plus One on Andy's recommendation for Alert Bay, but also adding, go right, down the street to the totem park, and past that to Duchesses Bannock. Way good, and really worth the walk. Tell her Hi from me. to if you are there.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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Pandion



Joined: 02 Oct 2013
Posts: 274
City/Region: Kenmore
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Osprey
Photos: Osprey
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2022 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hardee wrote:
Go right, down the street to the totem park, and past that to Duchesses Bannock. Way good, and really worth the walk. Tell her Hi from me. to if you are there.

Harvey, I knew you'd mention Duchess' Bannock if I didn't.

https://www.facebook.com/duchessbannock

Also, Sandy if you haven't seen this already, here's a good article on crossing the Nahwitti Bar—or going around it:

https://salishseapilot.com/preparing-to-cross-nahwitti-bar/
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Pandion



Joined: 02 Oct 2013
Posts: 274
City/Region: Kenmore
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Osprey
Photos: Osprey
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2022 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another thought: Sandy, if you don't already have them, you might want to download the two Canadian Sailing Directions PDF booklets (Canada's version of the U.S. Coast Pilot) for the west coast of Vancouver Island. Indispensable info that won't take up much space on your phone or tablet:

https://waves-vagues.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/Library/chs-shc-PAC201-eng-202206-41060143.pdf

https://waves-vagues.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/Library/chs-shc-PAC202-eng-202206-41060179.pdf
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smckean (Tosca)



Joined: 18 Jan 2014
Posts: 974
City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2022 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I got up early (OK, earlish Smile yesterday and did the Johnstone Strait thing while the water was flat. Wonderful cruising doing 23 MPH (statue) at 4100 RPM....much like what it feels like to ski fresh powder snow. Then the fog moved in. First time on this trip running blind with the radar. It was good practice to see how the radar operates in relatively open water like that (no Harvey Wink, I didn't stay at 4100, but dropped to my favorite hull speed spot of 1800 RPM) Soon enough I turned the corner into Havannah Channel. Dropped the hook at the first reasonable place (Burial Cove) since I had chores to do and ZERO plan for the Broughtons -- at that moment I had no idea whether to turn right or left. With some Garmin based communications with Randy Shuman and my Waggoner, I now have a general plan to go east and north before crossing back to the west ending at Sullivan Bay.

Thanks to the wonderful advice from you guys above, I've changed the plan to go to McNeill rather than Hardy. I expect to make that crossing in about a week -- weather permitting. It's about time for an oil change, so I will be trying to get that done at McNeill, and if possible, do one of those things where they pin the boat at high tide to some kind of support structure, so that at low tide the bottom is exposed for a power wash.

I have extremely weak Internet here (1 bar that comes and goes), and I expect I will lose it altogether once I shove off today. Speaking of that, first thing I will do is pull my crab trap I set as I pulled in here, I have low expectations since I see no evidence of anyone crabbing up here. I looked with binoculars at the semi-commercial docks around here for signs of old crab traps, buoys, etc, but saw none. People definitely shrimp up here. I see buoys set in 300 - 400' of water all the time, but basically never see anything that looks like a crab pot set. I was hoping to eat crab up here, and I didn't want to bring a pot puller etc for shrimp. I do expect to get some salmon on the west side. I am set up for that.

P.S. Thanks for the links for the PDFs. My connection is too poor to download them. All I seem to be able to do now is text-based stuff. I'll download the PDFs eventually.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2022 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sandy, Canoe Cove just down towards Minstrel Island and a left through the channel should have good I-net and and fuel.

But you may not get this from where you are.

All the best.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

Your not far from here, but it has changed.
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smckean (Tosca)



Joined: 18 Jan 2014
Posts: 974
City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2022 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My favorite marina? Lagoon Cove on East Cracroft Island.

Well, today was a big day.....I went over the top of Vancouver Island....aka...Cape Scott. It wasn't easy. During the 8 hour trip, I spent 4 of them working the wheel and the throttle hard every second in chaotic seas and an underlying 4 foot swell (couldn't even pee). Eventually, the wind came up, but by then I was over and going downwind.

Gotta sit here in Winter Harbor, among the googles of fisherman, for a couple of days to wait out a gale that is expected tomorrow. Then around Brooks Peninsula....the crux of this entire trip. (You can get killed doing Brooks if you f*** up.)

After that, this horse is gonna start smelling the barn....I can feel it already.

P.S. Port McNeill *was* a great provision spot just as you all advised me. Main thing....every type of store is well stocked AND within easy walking (no hills) walk of the marina.
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Hunkydory



Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2652
City/Region: Cokeville, Wyoming
State or Province: WY
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Hunkydory
Photos: Hunkydory-Jay-and-Jolee
PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2022 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sandy, I would like to see video of what it was like out there for you, but know how hard video is to get when it’s just a bit rough on the outside, let alone really rough & video seems to flatten conditions making it look much better than reality. I’ve never been able to get video during the really rough times except for Fords Terror & it ended really close to the start.

Yes, in the PNW, the Peninsulas & capes can be extra hazardous as you are aware. You’ve taken on a real challenge & I’m wishing you the best in this endeavor, as I follow your In Reach tracks. Being solo means you don’t have anyone else to think about, but also no company to help lower the sometimes fear factor. When I was on the outside solo towards the end of this years SE Alaska cruise, there were times, when I would have preferred to be elsewhere.

Jay

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smckean (Tosca)



Joined: 18 Jan 2014
Posts: 974
City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2022 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jay, your 2nd paragraph is pretty much exactly how I feel. No chance to do any video; I didn't dare let go of the controls.
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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
Posts: 3593
City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2022 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sandy, don't hurry down the coast. Take you're time and you'll see some wonderful sights such as Nootka, where Cpn Cook landed. I know you've seen a lot of the eastern part of Vancouver Isle, but it's hard to get to the west side and please enjoy it whilst you're there.

We took Journey On to the west coast by truck/trailer, but you're dong it the right way, by boat. Those inlets have some wonderful towns at their end, be sure you visit them, such as Tahisis and Tofino. Stop by Ucluelet and explore the whole area, the Broken Islands, etc. Spend a night at the Yacht Club dock which is at the opposite side from Ucleulet (sorry, I cant remember the name) where you'll meet other west side cruisers.

Now that you're there, the best is yet to come.

Boris
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