SE Alaska group cruise 2022

[Hunkydory]

6-9-2022 Day 20
The Wind blew pretty hard all night, then let up some by morning, so we all pulled anchor & headed out to see how doable. The further we went the better the conditions, by the time, we reached Chatham Strait waiting for the winds to shift to the north wasn’t a factor & it was great to be back seeing the beautiful bays, mountains & waterfalls along the west coast of Baranof Island. In one of my favorites, Takatz Bay, there was a very large male bear in the tidal meadows. Did some videos & photos around the waterfalls, then headed for Warm Springs Bay, looking forward to long soaks in the public hot spring water tubs. The dock there was filled with boats, so Jody & I, anchored, then stern tied out boats to the shore. It was pouring rain by then & no easy job getting lines up steep , slippery banks & tied off, especially by us two, who don’t do this often. Bill & Mike had gone slower & checked different places before anchoring someplace else. Mike sent a satellite Inreach message telling me the coordinates. Tonight supposed to be heavy rain & tomorrow high winds, so don’t expect to see them for another for day.

After getting settled in, we went in the inflatables to the the dock & had a good chat with former C- Dory owner & C-Brat member, New Moon, Richard, has cruised SE Alaska for 31 years. He Has written a published book on how to do it & has personally shared much valuable information with me in the past & is here now in his 37 foot Nordic Tug.

Finially, the 1st of many to come soaks in the hot spring water.

54 miles today 654 total

6-10-2022 Day 21

I spent a few hours up in the middle of the night with the uptick in rain & wind, I was a a little concerned with my close to shore stern tie & anchor set. Everything held well even though with the low tide got down to just 4 feet under the stern. This morning, I shortened the rode & now with a 4 to 1 scope, I have 8 feet at zero tide. No worries tonight & will sleep well.

Bill & Mike arrived back agin with us this morning without trouble.

A 64 foot Dashew “sp” world ocean capable 64 foot boat anchored by us this afternoon. I’ve read a lot about them & they would be my 1st choice if cruising the world oceans the Fleming if staying closer to land. All dream land, the C-Dory matches our real world wants, perfectly.

Late in the afternoon a another 22 foot C-Dory, “Teal” with Chris & his family of five arrived, just as a fishing boat was finally leaving the dock. Good luck for them. Another couple boats may leave the dock tomarrow, so then hopefully we can come off anchor with stern tie. It will make it much better for walks & hot springs soaks, though I did manage to get another hour in one today. I hope the Teal crew writes up their travels from Washington, as it should be an interesting read on how a family of five make out on a 22 foot boat with the youngest just 1 1/2 years old on such an extensive cruise. They have read about our many cruises up here & were following this one. I think, we were both happy with our wakes crossing here.

6-11-2022

Spots opened up on the dock, so we all moved over to it & then just an all around wonderful day at Warm Springs Bay. Several soaks in hot water. Beautiful walks to the out side hot pools & Baranof Lake. Climbed a lookout point above the lake that Mike had located, which gave a good view of the lake & bay. Got some, I think photos & video in the past few days, that continues to do, a small amount of justice to what we see & experience here. Next morning & im presently posing from the inflatable, where Chatham Strait meets the entrance to Warm Springs. I can get internet here from a tower above Takatz Bay.

[Hunkydory]

Tried to post more photos & video. Won’t upload even with 4 bars LTE. Out in Kaboat at junction of Chatham Strai & entrance to Warm Springs bay. Nice place to be, but not if trying to make photo upload in bouncy chop.

[Hunkydory]

6-13-2022 Day 24

Yesterday on the 12th June, I watched a local catch a 34 pound king salmon from the airplane dock, then talked to a guy who caught 42 pounder from the dock very close to the time JoLee & I was here in 2018. I also watch a land otter & young eagle facing off each other from the dock.

Today up at 4 am for a hour long hot water soak, then with favorable sea conditions, headed out after 4 nights here for Red Bluff Bay, another of my favorite places in SE Alaska. It was it’s usually beautiful setting, as we arrived with 3 bears out in the meadows & the high rugged snow capped mountains, barely peeking through, the mixed clouds & mist. Spent the afternoon & evening in the inflatable trying to get closer to the bears & exploring the shoreline & tidal sloughs, I have come to know so well over the last 18 years.

18 miles today 679 miles total.

6-14-22. Day 25

Great day reliving old memories with JoLee & making new ones in Red Bluff Bay, one of the very premier bays in SE Alaska. Surrounded by huge mountains & waterfalls with a bear meadow & river at the head with bears in the meadow & along the sides of the bay elsewhere. We spent time walking & inflatable riding in the tidal zones & with an extreme tides of near - 4 feet & +16 feet much to explore. All of us got in very close in the inflatables & somewhat close, while walking to watch a couple bears very non reactive or disturbed by our presence.

6-15-2022 Day 26 on the water & 31 days since leaving Cokeville, WY

Another amazing day in Red Bluff Bay, a place, I’ve spent an accumulative, over a month, during the last 19 boating seasons. First thing this morning at a very low -4 foot tide, I recreated the photo, that JoLee took of me & the boat with the Matterhorn type mountain in the background in 2004. I was even wearing the same vest, bought in Atlin, BC in 2001.
A few hours later, a group of 10 river otters came by the boat in & out of the water, doing their perpetual motion thing, very entertaining. Then the the big male brown bear, that’s more black then brown, showed up way back in the sloughs, while I was there in the inflatable. Beautiful coat on a magnificent bear. At a 100 yards, to far for my iPhone camera to do it justice, but wonderful to see in person, especially when it reacted with a couple other bears. All of this on a cloudless blue sky day, that amplified all the beauty surrounding this bay. I hope some of the video & photos give others an inkling of what it’s like, actually being here. Though, I wonder at times if some who are here, appreciate it in the same way, JoLee & I do, I think, some like the idea of being here, better than the actuality of the bugs, possible danger, confined spaces & varying hours of sleep to best match, the tides & weather.

6-16-2022 Day 27

Left Red Bluff Bay in another continuing blue sky day at 6:30 am. Weather reports don’t reach the inside of the bay, so didn’t know what to expect. Found 25 knots of wind from the north, so on our stern as we headed south. Shortly after, as I was busy getting future weather, Jody called to say my inflatable had flipped & I was towing it upside down. I couldn’t turn it over in the present sea conditions, so headed to a small cove off Chatham strait on my starboard. I got the anchor down & with considerable effort, the inflatable turned back up right & the motor & fuel tank off. Fortunately only a oar wast lost. Some lessons come hard others easy, you can learn from them all. I wasn’t able to get the inflatable on the boat roof, so I towed it the rest of the 6 miles to Gut Bay. A couple hours later after taking it to shore & giving it a work over, the motor was running fine again, so now have it stowed in the cockpit & will continue for now to tow just the inflatable for the rest of our way down Chatham Strait to the isolated little town of Port Alexander on the tip of Baranof Island. From their at the dock, I will get the inflatable on the boat roof for our next leg, planned run in the open ocean around Cape Decision to Port Protection for fuel & then up Rocky Pass to Kake.

Now I have the anchor down for the night in a beautiful small little salt water Chuck, accessed through a narrow tidal inlet with towering mountains all around & a river & meadow at the head, a couple hundred yards from the anchored boat that has a bear in it. Jody tried to get video with his drone of which, the bear didn’t like drone noise & made for the alders.

Mike & Bill left here this afternoon thinking the weather might be better now than tomarrow & are planning to anchor in Patterson Bay, which is our planned anchorage for tomorrow night. We will all meet up again either there or at Port Alexander tomarrow or the next day.

24 miles today & 703 total

6-17-2022 Day 28
Still a little rougher than forecast with now a south East wind of at least 15 knots as we headed out of Gut Bay & down Chatham Strait for very beautiful isolated Patterson Bay. Very view cruisers see this bay, fewer yet in small boats like ours. We arrived at the head of Patterson Bay, a place, JoLee & I have anchored several times before with a minus 3 foot tide, so it certainly looked different this time. In the confined space with strong current from several rivers entering & the now out going tide, I managed to get anchored in my old spot in 20 feet with swing room, after which Jody rafted to me & my anchor. The bottom was much deeper, then the charts indicated, as they only show only a couple feet of water here. Bill & Mike arrived a little earlier than us from Deep Cove & after some searching & trouble with anchors setting, found a spot further out from us in deeper water with both bow & stern anchors set.

My ice chest was about out of ice & luckily, I found a snow drift to replenish it. Doing so, came with a close call, as when, I began to knock out some clumps of ice, a large section weighing hundreds of pounds broke off on the steep side hill, just brushing my legs as it tumbled by.

In each of these bays, while anchored, we have seen at least one or more large brown bears.

25 miles today & 728 miles total.

6-18-2022. Day 29

Some stiff wind down the head of Patterson Bay, during the night, Bills stern anchor pulled loose, but bow held. My big Manson Boss an held Jody & I just fine, so my concerns during the night was just wasted sleep. We were all up early to catch the ebb tide to Port Alexander, the small isolated town on the tip of Baranof Island. With flat seas & blue skies it as very enjoyable run down the Island coast. We all walked the town boardwalk & for me enjoyable to see the now places & faces & memories of past trips here with JoLee.

With an acceptable weather forecast, that hopefully will hold for tomarrow, we plan on making the run around Cape Decision. This entails crossing the entrance the 27 mile open ocean entrance to Chatham Strait then following rounding the cape a run of around 20 miles up the entrance of Sumner Strait to to Louise Inlet. This like Cape Omney, which JoLee & I have twice rounded to Sitka is not taken without careful consideration of weather & tides, especially in our small cruising of just over 20 feet. Looking at these tracks of our travels should emphasize why.

https://share.garmin.com/JuliusByers

29 miles today & 757 total.

[Tony Ferris]

Jay/Jody/All,
I have been following Jody's InReach since he left Utah. I haven't been on C-Brats in ages, but am jealous reading about your trip. My C-Dory sits in my driveway, having been unused since I saw you at Lake Powell two or three years ago. Virus and bad knees have curtailed my boating. Visions of Alaska still give me something to consider. I'm recovering from my second knee replacement and hope I can get on my boat at least once or twice this year. As low as things are, I'll still probably try Lake Powell.
Maybe one day I can make it to Alaska, but thinking of doing it with ancient electronics and no auto pilot give me some pause. Thanks for the great account of your travels.
Tony

[Hunkydory]

Tony, glad to see your are following & enjoying reading about our trip. I hope you do make it up eventually to Alaska, as it in my opinion & for me it beats everywhere else for adventure cruising.



6-21-2022. Day 32

Weather forecast didn’t match reality, so waited 3 enjoyable days in the very unique & isolated small community of Port Alexander to make the 63 mile run from Port Alexander around Cape Decision to the two small communities of Port Protection & Point Baker. The first 27 miles to the Cape across the open to the Gulf mouth of Chatham Strait, Jody & I went on plane to avoid being bounced about, then the rest of he way after hitting very calm water at displacement speed. The Direct Cape Decision area was very calm due to the blocking of winds from the south by Coronation Island. In stronger winds & tides or much of any wind from the west, combined with the extreme amount of floating kelp & wood debris, can make Cape Decision very hard on bigger boats, let alone 22 foot C-Dorys, so very glad we all had the patience to wait for the right weather. Bill & Mike went slow the whole way around.

The Port Protection & Point Baker community’s are a strange combination of very nice fishing lodges & homes mixed with old state docks filled by derelict boats & crumbling buildings on floats. These remote communities are tough for people to make it in the best of times & the reduced use of natural resources, higher prices & Covid has really taken a toll.

63 miles today & 819 miles total

[DayBreak]

Jay, I see that you made it through Fords Terror today. How was it?

[cbbernard]

This thread makes me miss living and boating in Sitka. Thanks for the vicarious voyage!

[Hunkydory]

6-22-2022. Day 33

Point Baker to Petersburg
Fueled Sitka to Petersburg 361 miles 59.1 gal. 6.1 mpg.

Bought 62.3 gal gas of which, 3.2 gal used for generator & Kaboat & 2.7 gal diesel for Wallas heater. $380. $5.83 per gal for gas

52 miles today & 871 total

6-23 & 24 2022 Day 34 & 35

In Petersburg

6-25-2022 Day 36

Petersburg to Portage Bay

25 miles 871 total

6-26-2022 Day 37

Portage Cove to Gambier Bay. By brother islands to see sea lion colony.

48 miles, 944 total

6-27-2022 Day 38

Toured Gambier Bay then to Pleasant Bay. Pleasant Bay very hot, no fish or bears like in the past. Many horse flys

34 miles 979 total

6-28-2022 Day 39

Pleasant Bay to Tracy Arm Cove

30 miles 1009 total

6-29-2022 Day 40

Tracy Arm Cove to Fords Terror

33 miles today 1042 total

6-30-2022 Day 41

Toured Fords Terror in Kaboats with Jody. Went up the small rapid & shallow water into the East Arm on the end of a -1.5 foot tide, like I’ve done in the past alone in the Mokai. On the way out the tide was down to a gentle current. I’ve been into this arm in the same tide conditions as today & at high tide with the CD22. Many comments are made in the navigation reports for the Fords Terror entrance. From my experience of being here many times over the last 18 years, it’s best to figure the slack for Fords Terror on average will be 1.5 hours after Holkum Bay. In a C-Dory & knowing the best path through, there is plenty of safe tide time on either side of the slack especially at high slack.

Coming to Fords Terror now in a group with other large trawlers & a mini cruiser here, is a completely different experience, than when JoLee & I first visited with nobody here or in all of Endicott Arm in 2004. I suspect it won’t be long before permits are required in Fords Terror & Tracy Arm, like now in the bear observation places at Anon & Pack Creek & most all of Glacier Bay.

7-1-2022 Day 42

This was one of those exceptional days in an exceptional place. A rock slide that woke all up but me early in the morning, then, I saw a white wolf near the anchorage. It’s the first wolf I’ve seen in SE Alaska other than at Glacier Bay. On the way to Dawes Glacier, there was much ice in the channel. Almost turned back, but saw a clear of ice stretch to the side. Jody with the towing of his Kaboat turned back. The chances took of continuing on for the rest of us turned out worth it, as we saw a huge ice calving, the likes, I’ve only saw before in others, You Tube videos. There also was much minor calving before the big one. Tonight, we are all anchored at the entrance to Fords Terror.

While anchored here tonight, I noticed in the converted old tug to cruiser anchored near, a very old man, who’s age & limited movement would be often seen in a old peoples care home, climb slowly up to the upper deck to join his fellow cruisers, probably in his case family to watch the sun set on the distant snow covered mountains. It was wonderful to observe & I wish for a similar distant future.

46 miles today 1088 total.

7-2-2022 Day 43

It was a beautiful blue sky windless day, as we left the Fords Terror entrance anchorage & it remained so the whole day . Along the we past hundreds of different shaped icebergs with some their unbelievable blue colors enhanced by the bright sunshine. The Smokey haze, that has been a near constant for weeks was today almost gone, really allowing the water & surrounding mountains with their snowy peaks & glaciers to be seen at their very best. Going with the out going tidal current gave me a great 8 mpg fuel burn today & 7.1 mpg for the total cruise into Endicott Arm & Fords Terror.

Tonight we are anchored back in Tracy Arm Cove with cruising Tracy Arm & seeing the tide water glaciers there, while avoiding the thousands of icebergs, tomarrows plan.

26 miles today 1114 total

7-3-2022. Day 44

Another fabulous weather blue sky day. Made it to the face of both North & south Sawyer Glaciers. The first time with no ice in front of South Sawyer & easy to get through the ice, before reaching the clear area in front of the face. Some major calving took place while we were there. Jody got it on video with me directly in front of it while calving. A spectacular day with a bear on the beach when we arrived back at Tracy Arm Cove.

The 22CD Teal with family aboard we met at Warm Springs bay is also anchored here tonight making it four C-Dory 22 foot boats in the anchorage.

65 miles today & 1179 total

7-4-2022 Day 45

Tracy Arm Cove to Taku Harbor
We were extremely fortunate to have blue sky & light wind weather for the entire week we were in the Tidal glaciers & Fords Terror area & also less trouble getting to the glacier faces & more major calving, than I’ve ever seen, since first coming here in 2004.

28 miles & 1207 miles total

7-5-2022 Day 46

Today, Taku Harbor to Auke Bay, near Juneau & so ends the group part of this cruise. Jody & Mike will be leaving for Skagway tomarrow & Bill & I will be going our individual ways, solo for a few more weeks of cruising. This has been an extremely trouble free cruise by very capable & skilled group of cruiser’s in the best extended good weather, I’ve experienced over the 20 years of cruising here. The group was never tested by the extreme conditions, that can occur & that is most fortunate for us all. We did go to & see places, that very few other boaters in 22 & 23 foot boats venture to or get to see.

39 miles today & 1246 miles total

[Hunkydory]

Gary Fords Terror was wonderful & great to retturn & see once more.

cbbernard, your welcome.

Jay

[thataway]

Thanks to Jay and all for posting about the trip. It sure brings back memories. We tried to go up the entrance from inside at full flood in our 12 1/2' RIB--max speed about 20 mph with a 25 hp outboard. We were not able to stem the current coming in--so it was in excess of 20 mph at the overfall of the entrance max flood.

Our most memorable encounter with a wolf was one evening going to take the dogs ashore. We always searched the shore line for any critters. There was a wolf very close to the water and it stood there watching us for over 5 minutes, before turning and trotting off. We were less than 50' from it. Our dogs (Labs) remained quiet and their presence did not seem to disturb the wolf.

Have a great "Solo" remainder of the cruise.

[Tony Ferris]

I keep following both you and Jody on the Garmin and was taken by surprise to see Jody in Skagway and you in Hoonah. I continue to be enthralled by your great narrative and wish I could spend some time in SE Alaska. Hope you have a fantastic remainder to your trip. Maybe one day when we head to visit our son in Washington, we'll stop in Cokeville to say hi. Our preferred route is to avoid the Wasatch Front completely and go up US30 and then west. Enjoy the rest of your trip.

[ChrisMcBride]

It was so great to cross paths with you at Warm Springs bay and Tracy Arm! I'd been following your trip report and hoped that we'd get to meet you. It was a real treat to chat and share stories at the dock in Warm Springs.

Thanks again for the wealth of knowledge and excellent trip reports you've shared over the years! I hope you enjoy the last few weeks of your trip!

[Hunkydory]

Bob, I’m heading back to Fords Terror in a period of extreme tides, so looking forward to seeing the entrance & hope to arrive early enough to see very fast water.

Tony, you are very welcome to stop by any time while passing through Cokeville just call to make sure we are there.

Chris, what a pleasure to meet you & your family. You are making wonderful memories for them & you. I admire you all, as Know it can be difficult at times on such a trip for just two on a CD22, let alone with three young ones

Jay

[Hunkydory]

7-6-22 Day Day 47

Left Auke Bay, Juneau with plans of staying a few days in the Hoonah area, then head back down Chatham Strait to Warm Springs Bay for some days of just soaking in the hot spring water & relaxing. On the way found weather changes were coming faster than forecast, so after doing a bit of laundry at the Marina, buying some groceries & topping off on fuel it was getting late & weather from the south picking up in the morning, so decided Whitestone Harbor was best for the nights anchorage.

67 miles today 1313 miles total

7-7-2022 Day 48

Up at 3:15 am with plan of high speed run to Warm Springs Bay to beat the more than 15 knot wind on the bow coming later in the morning. Started getting rough after about 55 miles, so then slowed, but still running both motors with heavy fuel usage to get best speed for conditions, which called for sig sagging to keep from pounding as the waves were coming directly from my needed course. I arrived early enough to get a opened spot on the dock, so I didn’t have to anchor out & use the dingy to reach the hot springs. With strong south winds forecast every day, then Sunday/Monday a storm, I’m set to soak & relax for a while.

75 miles today & 1388 miles total.

7-7 to 7-12 2022

In my stay, I shared the dock at Warm Springs Bay with an interesting menagerie of people & boats during the storm, which kept us all there for several days.
There were six transient cruisers. A 50+ foot ocean capable catamaran with a retired couple aboard from the Seattle area, a brand new on their 1st trip, 31 foot Ranger Tug with fly bridge with a older guy & his young Russian girl friend, a forty some foot Nordic Tug with 2 ex airline pilots aboard, a 47 foot sailboat with a retired couple aboard who had sailed to Sitka from Hawaii & stayed there the last 2 years & now on a cruise of SE Alaska, a 28 foot 1980 sailboat with very minimal rigging & other standard fare, including no heat with a young guy aboard, operating on a shoe string budget & I amazed, he had made it this far from the Seattle area & he with continuing on to Juneau & then south to LA & me & the CD22 as usual the smallest of all. Also at the dock a couple of unique fisherman from Sitka on on a well set up 40 foot ceder hulled fishing boat. The owner, a retired electrician had made out very well on property & didn’t need to make money fishing, only break even, so is just fishing for the enjoyment of it. Then a couple of the home owners here also have very unique boats. One a 40 year old Grand Banks 32 footer with beautiful wood & the other a similar sized sailboat with also all the wood trimming. Last of all was the Whale Foundation’s three boats used for whale research & the researchers living in a rented home. These researchers, I’ve met on several different trip years here. All the people met were friendly, interesting & enjoyable. The salmon berries are ripe, huge this year, sweet & delicious & the walks to Baranof Lake & outside hot springs wonderful. The outside hot springs doesn’t compare well to White Sulfur Springs, but soaking in the hot water horse troughs with their adjustable water temperature & magical view, an incomparable experience. I’m in the little boat that has seen much more of SE Alaska, than any of them, so enjoy them all, but not intimidated by any. The mini cruise ships are now coming several at a time, so don’t know how long the wonderful uniqueness of this place will continue, but it was & is on this cruise a top highlight & I’m very happy to have returned here this year before heading home.

7-13-2022 Day 54

This morning I had just planned on leaving the Warm Springs Bay dock to get internet for weather out in Chatham Strait, but when I did it showed the forecast had changed & today was best for rounding Cape Gardner, the southern tip of Admiralty Island to make way again for Pleasant Bay off the Seymour Canal. The water was smooth & the breeze on the stern, so a very pleasant ride to Pleasant Bay. Many Many whales along the way. Perhaps 50 or more with seldom a time lapse between spouts, tails & the tops of huge black bodies to be seen.

71 miles today & 1459 total

7-14-2022 Day 55

I haven’t been past Pleasant Bay on the Seymour Canal since 2004, when JoLee & I checked out Pack Creek, the Grizzly Bear observation & preserve, so today decided to see if I could make it all the way to the land portage to Oliver Inlet. Several pods of porpoises came & rode the bow wave on the way. The inlet into Fools Bay is a real challenge & the bay aptly named. Charts were worthless & I proceeded very slow & carefully, using my years of experience navigating without charts to not become the fool. As I carefully zigg sagged through the entry, I several times got down to shallow water with a 15+ foot high slack tide.

The weather since leaving Juneau & the group has become much more SE Alaska normal. Highs in the mid 50’s, some rain most everyday & a storm, though not a gale. I much prefer this to the overly hot days even with their blue sky’s.

Tonight, I’m anchored in a small open to the north bay among the islands east of the Admiralty island, Pack Creek bear observation & preserve. I only anchor in these open bays, when I’m fairly sure of the weather/wind directions & have a back up place near, for opposite wind directions then predicted.

By using the tidal currents, one of the two motors, wind on the stern & going slow, I averaged 9.4 mpg today for 48 miles. The main reason, I decided to see the the far end of Seymour Canal this trip is the weather report, showed the possibility of having the wind on the stern, going both directions with the chance of also using the tidal currents to my advantage at the same time if patient.

48 miles today & 1507 miles total

7-14-2022 Day 56

Granddaughter Ivy’s Birthday. Sent here good wishes on In Reach & hope they went through.

Back to Pleasant Bay & even without the fish to attract the bears was surprised to have a Mama & cub picking berries along the shore by my anchorage, which hung around for an hour or so. Good entertainment, the bears, eagles, loud sounds of the whales breathing just outside the bay & the huge tide swings of 23 feet, making the shoreline ever changing.

21 miles today 1528 total.
https://share.delorme.com/JuliusByers

[Pat Anderson]

Jay,

This is an epic thread that I think people will be coming back to read years from now!

Thanks!

Pat