Filling holes in the deck in the bilge area

[zuunami]

A previous owner screwed down wood containments for the battery and gas tank in the deck in the bilge area on our 16'er, about 10 in all. Just regular phillips screws We've taken them all out (some not without some effort since they were rusted), and we got some wood dust on a few, but it was dry. And the deck seems very solid, didn't find any soft spots at all. None of the holes are bigger than 1/4", and no deeper than 3/4". What's the current thinking on filling those, would Marine Tex be okay, or would another product be better to be sure it flows down and fully fills the hole? Thanks!

[ssobol]

I had some epoxy specifically for flowing into things like that to seal them up. Don't remember what it was called. I would use something like that to seal the core and then fill it with thickened epoxy (e.g. West 610).

[T.R. Bauer]

I have had good result with G-flex in filling holes - flows right in very nicely. There are a litany of other epoxies that will work too I'm sure. I've used marine tex before, and it has it's place, but I don't think you'll be able to get into those small diameter holes very well.

[Marco Flamingo]

[thataway]

We usually drill out these holes to be clean of rust etc--1/4" will work fine if you are not going to put more screws in--if more screws, then 5/16 and under cut the deck before putting epoxy plug in place.

Then work plain neat epoxy into each hole, using. a swab to work it into the sides of the core. Thicken the epoxy and then work that down unto filling the hole. I used the same mix of epoxy I had mixed for lining the holes with neat epoxy., I agree that Marine Tex is too thick to work down fully.

[Roamad]

My 1988 16’er had the same blocks of wood screwed to the floor. Maybe they are a factory install? I’m hoping to reuse some to mount a new fuel tank.

[zuunami]

Roamad, I don't think wood put down with machine screws was a factory install I'm curious why you would want to put wood down in the bilge area?

[zuunami]

thanks everyone, got some epoxy flowed into those holes today. Now researching how to make a light weight fuel tank container that can slide in and out, and also how to move the battery to one of the seatboxs. So thankful for all of the resources here on C-Brats!

[thataway]

I am not sure what you want in a fuel tank. I probably would buy a pre made plastic tank, and perhaps glue some slides of King Starboard (or any high density polyethylene strips to the inner side of the hull, to slide the tank on. 1/4" thick and roughen up the back, and cut some dove tail notches to give tooth for adhesive (either 5200 or G Flex epoxy) after flame treating the HDPE.

[zuunami]

thataway, we're thinking of two 3-gal tanks, one on each side, then moving the battery to the port seatbox (we're not going on long hauls, and like the idea of just moving and changing them out to keep fuel fresh), and yes, we would want to lay down some sort of lifters slanted toward the center so water can flow underneath, then figure out a tie down system.

[thataway]

I was thinking of larger tanks--but the 3 gallon are easily handled. I use a 6 gallon as back up for my Honda EU2200 generator. Even the 6 gallon is easily handled. I wonder if a 3 gallon or 6 gallons total, would be enough the the cruising you want to do?

There are a number of ways of holding the tanks in place--but with smaller thanks you don't really need much. Gluing down strips of PVC lumber to the floor with epoxy and then screwing strap holders to them would work well.

[zuunami]

thanks, Thataway, we have two six gallong tanks, just trying to lighten the load. We won't be going more than 5 or 6 miles a day out of harbor per day. Finding a 3 gal tank with a decent review online is a different matter apparently with the new gas tanks. There's always the 6 gal tanks

[Safetythird]