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Navigation Lights Are Dead
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Tug



Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 983
City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 11:45 am    Post subject: Navigation Lights Are Dead Reply with quote

The other night I went to turn on my navigation lights and nothing worked.
See pictures I just posted.
The rocker panel navigation light comes on but when I pull out the knob to activate the running lights but the fuse blows. I have power to the back of the rocker panel and one of the three wire connections on the back of the navigation switch. I not sure if there should be power to all the three wire connections.
When my wired Navigation Compass was stolen and ripped out , it looks like the wire was pulled hard. Yet, there are no loose or obvious signs of damage. The back side of the navigational switch three connections look corroded but it's been like that for ten years , always worked fine. I was leaving that for the last if I can't find the problem. Thanks Tug
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smckean (Tosca)



Joined: 18 Jan 2014
Posts: 974
City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the only way you are going to trouble shoot this situation is to carefully measure voltages at all involved points under various conditions (i.e., switch on, switch off, etc), and then to think it thru to see "what's wrong with this picture (i.e., the voltages you found)".
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Purchased Tosca in 2014
Re-powered to Yammi 200 in 2015
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Tug



Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 983
City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just came back for my boat trying exactly that. No luck, I think I will remove the navigation switch from the boat and clean and sand all the connections. I would like to just replace the navigation switch with a new one . ( in case it's faulty ). but I have no idea if they still make or where I would look to buy a new one for a 1985 C-Dory 22 foot Angler. Thanks for the suggestion.. Tug
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Tug



Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 983
City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just posted a picture of a 3-positional navigation switch that I found on-line. Is it as easy as swapping the new for the old or is there anything else I should be aware of like compatible amps and voltage or are these universal and fit all models.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tug, Is this the replacement you are looking at?


My Lites are a combo of 2 switches, 1. The anchor light and 2. The Red/Green side nav lights. I can turn in the anchor light separately or when I turn on the Nav lite switch, both R/G and anchor lights come on. I have indicator lights on both switches that come on when the lites are ON. They are rocker switches, something like the ones on the front of your panel here.


I'm not the electronics techy type, but I do like that I have an inside indicator when those lights are on.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon


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Though in our sleep we are not conscious of our activity or surroundings, we should not, in our wakefulness, be unconscious of our sleep.
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Tug



Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 983
City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will try cleaning and sanding the switches terminals first . If that doesn't work I will just replace the Navigational switch. It's a pain trying to find a short, every wire must have a couple of pin holes in them by now. I can't go walleye fishing at night until I get the lights working. Thanks for the reply. Tug.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
" . . . The back side of the navigational switch three connections look corroded but it's been like that for ten years , always worked fine. I was leaving that for the last if I can't find the problem. Thanks Tug"


Might be that that is where you are at now. Until that corrosion is cleaned up, and it may be clear up into the switch, you are not going to be sure of a fix.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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smckean (Tosca)



Joined: 18 Jan 2014
Posts: 974
City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tug,

That looks like a Carling switch to me. If you need to replace, check out:

https://www.carlingtech.com/switches
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two comments:

1. Every boater should have a digital volt meter aboard and know how to use it. That way there is no guessing about where the short is, and what will be necessary to remedy the situation.

2. Considering the age of the boat and wiring (26years) it is most desirable to replace the switch and put in new wiring. Problem solved in a critical piece of gear.

_________________
Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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Tug



Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 983
City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2021 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ended up removing the Navigation Switch this morning. Turns out it was a 4-connector Perko Switch. When I tried to remove the screw from one of the connectors a piece came off from the back of the switch. I have an elastic holding it together in the picture I posted. Two connector was corroded badly , the other 2 were fine . I will order a new one and let you know if a new switch solves the problem. Thanks Tug.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2021 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At the very least, I would cut off those connectors, and put new ring terminals. Use a heat shrink adhesive fitting, and be sure and check the wire for corrosion. If significant corrosion, replace the wire with tinned AWG marine grade wire.
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Tug



Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 983
City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2021 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ended up ordering a Sea-Dog 3-connector push-pull switch. It was all that I could find on Amazon.ca and shipping was free. If I ordered from the States shipping costs for a 4-connector switch was around $ 30.00 and I am not sure when I would get it . Some places won't even ship to Canada. One of the 4-connectors was for the Ritchie Compass but I really don't need it lite so a 3-connector switch will work.
If this doesn't fix the problem I will rewire all the navigation lights like thataway suggested.
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starcrafttom



Joined: 07 Nov 2003
Posts: 7878
City/Region: marysville
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1984
C-Dory Model: 27 Cruiser
Vessel Name: to be decided later
Photos: Susan E
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2021 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So a little advice to all , and not trying to be a know it all . But I find it odd that people throw parts at problems with out knowing if its the part they need. So on your problem you should do the following , you know if your asking me......

Your light don't work so first step is are they getting power. Volt meter will tell you.

If you got power into the switch do you have power out? yes cool. no buy switch, volt meter will tell.

If you have power in and out of the switch do you have a full circuit from there to the light and back? volt meter will tell you. see a theme...

volt meter

This will do more then you and I will ever need. between the 12 volt meter and the complete circuit buzzer you can do a lot. Identify the bad part before you start buying parts new parts. If you dont you might end up with a job at a car dealership service department.

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Thomas J Elliott
http://tomsfishinggear.blogspot.com/
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Tug



Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 983
City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2021 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today, I finally fixed and got my navigational lights working again. I ended up " Up-Grading " the original switch with a SeaChoice 4 connector Push- Pull switch. The problem as suspected was the wiring form the Richie Compass that had been ripped out. I tested each connector at a time with power to the switch for the bow lights , running lights and anchor light . The only time the fuse was blown was when I added the wiring from the Richie Compass . I re-wired the compass wire and all is running as it should. I did find a burnt out anchor light bulb and after tracing all the wiring to the switch I now know what goes where and where they come from so that in itself was worth the effort. Tug
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2021 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just another hint. Works if you leave your all around/anchor lite up all the time or put it up each time you launch, (Which is what I do). That light pole that goes from the cabin top connector up to the light sits down into the connecter on the cabin top. Oh, bright idea, now any moisture, rain or salt water that hits that lite post will follow the laws of physics and collect and run down hill Cool Shocked Twisted Evil into that nice little cup. Yup, right into the connection fixture. Guess what happens next. Funny how that works, right Rolling Eyes

So , , , , fix it. My fix, I wrap that base from the bottom up, covering the plastic tightener ring and on up about an inch. Each wrap overlapping the previous wrap about half the width. I do this with Rescue tape, pulled fairly tight. Makes that connection waterproof. NO corrosion, and not shorting. Yes, it take a bit of time, but in 15 years, I doubt I have spent as much time preventing, as Tug has fixing the result. (NO I don't put up that light at every launch. It depends on the weather, and time.)

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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