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Gene&Mary



Joined: 10 Jan 2005
Posts: 206
City/Region: Seattle/Center Island
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Linnea
Photos: Linnea
PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2021 7:12 pm    Post subject: Leaking RIB Reply with quote

My RIB has a slow leak somewhere. I sprayed a solution of ~1/2 water to ~1/2 liquid detergent over the rubber tubes but didn't see anything. Are there any other methods of finding a slow leak or is that just the nature of RIBs and I just have to live with blowing it up occasionally?

Thanks
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2021 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How Old? What material? Did you cover the seems and valves? Most likely spots, those are.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon


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randywusa



Joined: 13 May 2021
Posts: 12
City/Region: Rochester Hills
State or Province: MI
PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 4:19 pm    Post subject: Check the valve Reply with quote

Most inflatables use a Halkey Roberts (HR) valve, which are spring loaded and have a seal. They may need to be tightened if you find a leak around the valve. You will need a special HR valve spanner to do the tightening. Most inflatables, including small RIBs have three chambers, is one getting low more so than another? Over time the pvc material, depending on original quality, will lose the ability to hold air for long periods of time. If your inflatable is made from Polyurethane, the leak is more than likely in one of the seams or valve.
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Foggy



Joined: 01 Aug 2013
Posts: 1518
City/Region: Traverse City; Northern Lake Michigan
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C-Dory Year: 2014
C-Dory Model: 26 Venture
Vessel Name: Boatless in Boating Paradise
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clean it.
Dry it.
Patch it.

Aye.

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Gene&Mary



Joined: 10 Jan 2005
Posts: 206
City/Region: Seattle/Center Island
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Linnea
Photos: Linnea
PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hardee- its an Endeavor purchased in 2010-2011. Looking on the internet now it is probably polyurethane. It has been consistently stored inside.

Randywusa- looking on the internet it is an HR valve and the spanner wrench costs $12.95. Seems like a good purchase. The RIB has two chambers and insert boards for the floor. Guess I'll try the spray bottle again as it is noticeably deflated after one day.

Foggy- if I could find the leaks I would patch them.

Thanks
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Foggy



Joined: 01 Aug 2013
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City/Region: Traverse City; Northern Lake Michigan
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Vessel Name: Boatless in Boating Paradise
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gene&Mary wrote:
SNIP

Foggy- if I could find the leaks I would patch them.

Thanks


Haul it.
Hose it (inside).
Watch it (outside).
Clean it.
Dry it.
Patch it.

Aye.
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
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City/Region: SW Michigan
State or Province: MI
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SoBELLE
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you allowing for temperature changes between when you pump it up and when you check it for leaks.

I remember once I was towing a RIB on the highway. it was a nice sunny day about 90 deg. Going down the highway I went through a thunderstorm. Between the ambient temp dropping 20 degs, the sun disappearing, and the cooling effect of the rain on the tubes (it had red tubes), the RIB got pretty soft and floppy. After exiting the thunderstorm, the sun came out and the temperature climbed back up to 90. In about 20 minutes, the RIB was back to its normal inflation state. It was kind of interesting to watch the boat in the rearview mirror as this happened.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ssobol wrote:
Are you allowing for temperature changes between when you pump it up and when you check it for leaks.

I remember once I was towing a RIB on the highway. it was a nice sunny day about 90 deg. Going down the highway I went through a thunderstorm. Between the ambient temp dropping 20 degs, the sun disappearing, and the cooling effect of the rain on the tubes (it had red tubes), the RIB got pretty soft and floppy. After exiting the thunderstorm, the sun came out and the temperature climbed back up to 90. In about 20 minutes, the RIB was back to its normal inflation state. It was kind of interesting to watch the boat in the rearview mirror as this happened.


I watch the temperature fluctuation in my motorcycle tires on my TPMS and am totally surprised how much fluctuation there is, up and down is such short time periods. That does have some affect on the tire pressures as well.

On my inflatable, I usually have to pump it every other week. That OK, I figure if I ever wind up having to ditch in it, I will either take the pump with me or plan on getting to shore with in a week. Shocked

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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gstraub



Joined: 02 Aug 2017
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am going through this exact same situation with our RIB (which is old enough not to really owe us anything). One chamber has a relatively fast leak. I haven't gotten around to looking for it in detail yet, but it's on the list, so following this with interest!
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Gene&Mary



Joined: 10 Jan 2005
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Photos: Linnea
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The internet says to add some glycerin to the soap solution. It makes the bubbles stand out more. My first action will be replacing the valves. If it still leaks I'll continue with the soap/glycerin solution paying close attention to seams. If that doesn't work I'll try Toobseal to try to seal any leaks from the interior.
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robhwa



Joined: 04 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Foggy wrote:
Gene&Mary wrote:
SNIP

Foggy- if I could find the leaks I would patch them.

Thanks


Haul it.
Hose it (inside).
Watch it (outside).
Clean it.
Dry it.
Patch it.

Aye.


I have an old 10 ft Avon Rover R3.11 (what, 30+ years or so old now), in Hypalon. Getting into a kayak or canoe as a dinghy is getting more difficult and I'm thinking of going to an inflatable dinghy that we can just step into and easily put my Torqeedo on.

This Avon has the inflatable keel tube and inflatable floor that allows it to be "rolled up" and stored on deck or cockpit. I've bought a Dewalt 20 volt leaf blower that will inflate it in a few minutes.

The keel tube and floor leak. I'm having trouble buying the old glues that it was made with. Has anyone used some of the newer, available, glues like Clifton F4844 and had good success? I can't find Rema Tip-Top SC-2000 or SC-4000. I've also seen recommendations for using 3M 5200. I have the time required for 5200 to cure as this is not an emergency repair, but I am worried about flexibility, as 5200 seems pretty rigid, and there aren't any people that actually used it to repair Hypalon writing reviews. Many of the newer glues fail quickly.

If anyone has any Rema Tip-top SC-2000 laying around (I can get the accelerator), and no use for it to repair Hypalon, I'd be happy to buy it from you, as I really like to keep old things going (like myself). Also, if any people that have had success with available glues like Clifton F4844, particularly in the waters of the PNW, could chime in, that would be great.
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alainP



Joined: 07 Oct 2016
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C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: deja la
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also had to do a lot of work on my old Avon including re-gluing the rub strip in its entirety and many small repairs on the tubes and stern board taping plus one pinhole in the HP floor. Surprisingly I found that a product made for teak deck caulking bonded very strongly with the hypalon (and anything else!) after an initial solvent cleaning of the area to be repaired, a little abrasive sanding and more acetone cleaning before bonding. initial cure is overnight. I got the stuff from Defender Model# SIS440CG
A big plus is that the stuff is gray and matches the usual dink color pretty closely.
Alain P
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I've also seen recommendations for using 3M 5200. I have the time required for 5200 to cure as this is not an emergency repair, but I am worried about flexibility, as 5200 seems pretty rigid, and there aren't any people that actually used it to repair Hypalon writing reviews. Many of the newer glues fail quickly.


I have used 5200 on a PVC boat transom/ tube interface, where I could not get anything else to work. I had to keep it clamped for several days to get the best result. It was stiff, but did work. I suspect it would work the same with Hypalon.

I have used the two part Stabond with good results on Avon patches.

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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
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Gene&Mary



Joined: 10 Jan 2005
Posts: 206
City/Region: Seattle/Center Island
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C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone used Toobseal or another product for sealing the interior tubes of RIBs. If you have was it successful?

thanks
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
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City/Region: SW Michigan
State or Province: MI
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SoBELLE
Photos: SoBelle
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gene&Mary wrote:
Has anyone used Toobseal or another product for sealing the interior tubes of RIBs. If you have was it successful?

thanks


A RIB dealer I dealt with once said he had a boat that someone tried that on. It just made a big mess and didn't fix anything. It's pretty hard to rotate a boat of any size in 3-axes until the tube seal stuff sets up. It's not like fixing a tire.
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