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Honda BF 150A wont start
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bobjarrard



Joined: 03 Oct 2010
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City/Region: Boulder City
State or Province: NV
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2021 9:54 pm    Post subject: We are all fired!! Now you are the EggSpurt!!! Reply with quote

Great series of posts and along the way you became a master mechanic! Keep up the posts till all is well and then how about a video of your boat running!!!! Thanks again, Bob Jarrard Xmas Eek
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Schuster



Joined: 25 Mar 2009
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City/Region: Port Orchard
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C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Witch
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2021 10:46 am    Post subject: honda 150 wont start Reply with quote

I think I'll take that advice Steve and get the OEM replacement. I really don't want to do this again. I think Ill clean the injectors today after seeing the condition of the pump.
This engine only has 350 on it so it has seen a lot of idle time. Hasn't been started for almost 2 years. Always had marina gas in it with additives but apparently still had moisture in it. Part of the problem there is he never filled it full always only 1/2 full. That has the tendency to cause vaporization/sweating.
So we move forward from here.
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srbaum



Joined: 30 Aug 2010
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2021 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did I mention that I purchased and installed 2 aftermarket units, before I learned my lesson? Fortunately, the aftermarket supplier refunded my $$, but that didn’t account for my labor, time delays in getting the parts and of course my frustration…
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Steve Baum
Homeport of Portsmouth, VA
OSPREY (Ex Mister Sea) 2000 22 C-Dory 2010 - Sold 3/19
OSPREY (Ex ADITI) 2007 26 Cape Cruiser 2018
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bobjarrard



Joined: 03 Oct 2010
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City/Region: Boulder City
State or Province: NV
PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2021 11:26 am    Post subject: Good, now get it fixed and send us the video!!! Reply with quote

I have a friend who has worn out the auto parts store "lifetime warranty" over and over on his Dodge diesel truck. It is like the story of oats - the cheap ones already went through the mule, the good ones come in the nice brown bag.
Bob Jarrard
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2021 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not really the same issue but I recently had to replace the starter motor on my BF90D. The Honda part was ~US$750. There are plenty of off brand replacements for less than US$150.

I went with the OEM part.
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bobjarrard



Joined: 03 Oct 2010
Posts: 458
City/Region: Boulder City
State or Province: NV
PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2021 11:57 am    Post subject: Good, now get it fixed and send us the video!!! Reply with quote

I have a friend who has worn out the auto parts store "lifetime warranty" over and over on his Dodge diesel truck. It is like the story of oats - the cheap ones already went through the mule, the good ones come in the nice brown bag.
Bob Jarrard
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2021 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ssobol wrote:
Not really the same issue but I recently had to replace the starter motor on my BF90D. The Honda part was ~US$750. There are plenty of off brand replacements for less than US$150.

I went with the OEM part.


Talking with a friend of mine today about the prices of motorcycle parts. His comment, "Remember, you don't have to put platinum handles on the casket, the wooden ones work just as well!" implying that you have a choice of where you want to spend your money, Quality is good, but is it that much better.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon


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Though in our sleep we are not conscious of our activity or surroundings, we should not, in our wakefulness, be unconscious of our sleep.
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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2021 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, aftermarket parts are certainly cheaper, but one might ask why. A $150 starter motor is $150 for a reason; could be weight (less copper), just quality or something.

Now, since one cannot be sure why that part is cheaper, start thinking about what is means to the engine, in other word, for instance, can you start that engine when you're anchored in a secluded place without that starter? If the answer is no, you've got a critical part and don't skimp. Consider a rebuilt, I've had good luck with them.

I bought a motor snubber from Rockwell?, the best aftermarket (most expensive) they had, but not a Toyota part. Built misaligned, forced a fit. So, be careful. If it's critical and it's worked from the factory, why wouldn't you buy a factory replacement? Boat.net gives a slight discount on outboard parts.

Boris
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2021 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

journey on wrote:
Well, aftermarket parts are certainly cheaper, but one might ask why. A $150 starter motor is $150 for a reason; could be weight (less copper), just quality or something. ...


But you have to look deeper than just the part. Perhaps the price is higher just because the cache of the brand allows them to charge a higher price (and net higher profit). Perhaps they have to account for other factors besides just the cost of the part (those celebrities in the commercials won't work for free).

Perhaps the off brand part and the brand name part are the same quality (maybe even the same OEM), is the all the money you pay for a brand name part actually returned to you in a part that is actually higher quality?

Unfortunately, without comparative testing for your particular use case, it is very hard to know.
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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2021 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ssbol, you've asked some very good questions. And the answer, as you've stated is one doesn't know. Unless one has had some experience with the cheap stuff. And, certainly the OEM equipment is priced high.

So, you have to make a judgement call. First, is the starter (for example) a brand that of which you've heard? Say Hitachi? Next is the component critical to your successful journey? If you're going the anchor in a remote anchorage where the towboat may or may not find you, the answer is yes. So, if you've never heard of the brand, I wouldn't buy it and I'd get the OEM.

As another example, there are a lot of generators made in China and people want to know if they're good enough to take on board. And the answer is (or should be) is how the heck should we know. My generator is a Honda which I've had for 15 years. So I know how Hondas last. And I've bought stuff from Harbor Freight, so I can evaluate how their stuff lasts in general. And I still chose Honda, because if the generator craps out in the aforementioned anchorage, it'll cost me a lot to recover from that and ruin the vacation.

You've asked logical questions, but given no specific way they can be answered but a good running outboard is critical to our successful vacation, so I buy the best parts I can. And it's paid off.
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T.R. Bauer



Joined: 17 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm glad you got it figured out. You saved yourself a ton of money!
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baensch-ak



Joined: 13 Jan 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2021 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are only 2 things needed for a mechanically good motor to work, fuel and fire. To eliminate one means reducing your problem by 1/2. As others suggested, pull a plug, reconnect the wire to it, and with a thick rubber glove and in relative shade/darkness ground it solidly to the motor meta,l preferably not right over the plug hole. (Gas fumes can ignite.) If you have spark, you need to check for fuel to the motor. (It is unlikely that any of the individual ignition coils would fail. If one failed, the motor would still start, but run rough.) If the motor has fuel injection, the fuel goes to a high pressure pump that sends it under pressure to the common rail, which feeds the individual electro-magnetic injectors. If you have spark and fuel to the motor via line and bulb, your likely failure is the pump. If the connections to the pump are energized with the starter key on, the pump is dead and needs to be replaced. If the pump hums, the injectors are not operating, which shows a faulty engine computer.
Actually, I hope that by now your problem is in the past. Al B

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Previously owned C-D 16' URSA MINOR, C-D 22' PEGASUS, Island Packet 380 FRIENDSHIP live aboard, C-D 16' G.S. LOLLIPOP, Cape Cruiser 23 HARMONY. As of June '19 sailing 'Life of Riley', a C-Dory 22, stored in Bellingham. Al & Karen
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T.R. Bauer



Joined: 17 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2021 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

baensch-ak wrote:
There are only 2 things needed for a mechanically good motor to work, fuel and fire. To eliminate one means reducing your problem by 1/2. As others suggested, pull a plug, reconnect the wire to it, and with a thick rubber glove and in relative shade/darkness ground it solidly to the motor meta,l preferably not right over the plug hole. (Gas fumes can ignite.) If you have spark, you need to check for fuel to the motor. (It is unlikely that any of the individual ignition coils would fail. If one failed, the motor would still start, but run rough.) If the motor has fuel injection, the fuel goes to a high pressure pump that sends it under pressure to the common rail, which feeds the individual electro-magnetic injectors. If you have spark and fuel to the motor via line and bulb, your likely failure is the pump. If the connections to the pump are energized with the starter key on, the pump is dead and needs to be replaced. If the pump hums, the injectors are not operating, which shows a faulty engine computer.
Actually, I hope that by now your problem is in the past. Al B


Well.....they don't a dang thing without compression Smile
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