New boat missing Anchor/Windless. Help me buy a replacement?

[wa500]

Alright, I am going to order these items. Since Defender does not sell the Manson Anchor, I have to get that off Amazon.

Can you please check check these over? Am I making any mistakes if I submit this order?

Do I need any other accessories for the install kit? Does it include switches and everything I need other than maybe electrical wire and connectors? I assume I'll have to run all the way to the back battery?

I remain concerned about the epoxy/resin part of the install. I can do everything else just fine.

Anyone think I'm doing the wrong thing before I submit the order?

[garyf]

Seems reasonable to me. I got the same windlass and installed it fairly recently. I actually got the "pro fish" version of the windlass, but that's just a variation that allows the anchor to free fall.

Everyone is going to have different opinions on the makeup of the rode and of course it also depends on where you're going to be fishing as well. In my opinion, you're a little light on chain, but that's just my opinion. I got 60' of chain and 200' of rope... so you actually have a little more length overall. I've seen recommendations from reputable sources that the amount of chain should be 2x to 3x times the length of your boat - but I also know some people who don't use chain at all.

As far as setting the point for anchoring in relation to a target fishing spot, it can be useful to go to your target and set a waypoint then let the boat drift off the waypoint to get a feel for what direction and distance you need to go to drop anchor and drift to the target fishing spot.

Oh, and YES you very much should seal the holes you drill with epoxy to protect the balsa core. There are articles posted in here on how to do that and why, etc.

Good luck. Several of us have done what you're going to do so while our opinions may vary slightly, there's plenty of help available.

[starcrafttom]

[Schuster]

Good choices and good price points. Inquire on the windlass if it comes with a breaker box. They sell a package deal where you get the whole works and dont have to go buy any electrical stuff. good luck. and if you need someone familiar with Puget Sound to learn to shrimp and crab and fish, drop me a note and I'll be glad to share a few good spots with you.

[thataway]

Good point on the breaker--but you will also need the wire for the windlass.
You are going to need high test shackles for the anchor/ chain.

My impression is that the dock and anchor lines at places like Walmart and Home depot are made in China. Defender uses ARCO made in USA G 4 chain. My Brait line was by Yale Cordage. I don't believe that you will find Brait 8 plait anchor rode at Home Depot.

[wa500]

[wa500]

[LesR]

Here's the one I recently ordered for my rode after losing my anchor to Mark Twain Lake.
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1&id=3290405

Mantus Anchors also has a 20% discount running for the next couple days (Mantusmarine.com). Their M1 is similar to the Manson Supreme and Rocna anchors, if you want to further complicate the decision process.

Les

[wa500]

[colbysmith]

[garyf]

[wa500]

What specific type of epoxy and resin (and minimum quantity) should I order to finish the job?

Do I need a backing plate or does an adequate one come with the horizontal kit?

[wa500]

Do I want this + a fast hardener? It mentions it is "yellow", is that ok?

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=12198#

Or do I not need Resin at all and just lining it with standard home-depot 2 part epoxy sufficient?



It seems I won't be using much product. One quart plus hardener is nearly $80. Is there a better option?

[thataway]

With all due respect, you are starting a project, yet I am not sure you know exactly what is involved. I you have not already done so, I suggest that you study the manual for installation of the Lewmar 700:

manual for Lewmar 700 Windlass.

There are going to be lots of items you will need--including epoxy (Which needs two parts to catalyze). The epoxy is to seal the core around the holes you drill in the deck, one of which is large. (3" diameter) The core will have to be cut back and the area filled with thickened epoxy. West Systems has already thickened epoxy : 6/10 epoxy.

You are going to need a good crimper for the #8 wire, and probably second crimper for 10/12, 14/16 and 18/22 AWG wire. You will need terminals. Wire needs to be color coded: positive is red and negative is black or yellow.. You will need adhesive shrink wrap. All positive terminals or bare terminals have to be covered.

Do you have the correct size hole saw and a powerful enough drill?

You need to place the first 50 amp breaker within 7" of battery or primary busbar. I have always put in second 50 amp breaker near the helm, so that is where you can turn the power on from the helm. (I put it on the front forward bulkhead under the galley, just under the top, well outboard, so the helmsman can easily reach it from the helm seat.

You may need terminal posts when the smaller wire from the windlass connects to the #8 wire you are running from the batteries.

When buying wire and terminal fittings get marine grade (which means that they are copper tin plated, that there is an adhesive shrink wrap sleeve over the wire.

There may be a contractor or there may just be a switch.

I use fender washers to back the windlass, or a custom made plate of aluminum ( if you have a source for 1/4" aluminum plate, you can drill out the holes).

You probably will want to grind off the nonskid where you mount the windlass. You will need a good grinder (I use a 4" angle grinder with a sanding backing plate) and then a sealant (4000) when installed.

The charging of batteries is a whole other topic. The boat should have a 1/2/all / off switch. For years boaters combined (All) the batteries when running after starting and then went to ! or 2 for house use after the engine stops. In recent years most use voltage sensitive relays, to combine the batteries.

[wa500]

Thanks Thataway. Part of this is to get the parts ordered so they arrive by next Friday. I'm sure I have lots of other reading to do. The other challenge is there's not boat-specific write-up I can find on here.

There are going to be lots of items you will need--including epoxy (Which needs two parts to catalyze).

The directions state "epoxy" but I see some people (including one of your previous posts) mention "epoxy resin". To me, expoxy is to the two part household stuff you use to stick things that I use for airplane models, but I'm not sure what Resin is.


If this is all I need, I think that's golden, I'll order it:

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1152086


You are going to need a good crimper for the #8 wire,

Can I just drop Solder and heat shrink tubing and hit it with a heat gun
like I do for automotive stuff instead?

and probably second crimper for 10/12, 14/16 and 18/22 AWG wire. You will need terminals. Wire needs to be color coded: positive is red and negative is black or yellow..

I ordered 25' of each, I hope that's enough!

You will need adhesive shrink wrap. All positive terminals or bare terminals have to be covered.

Is "covered" satisfied if it's behind the factory removable cover where all the electrical wiring is? It does not appear Defender sells this product, although they do have adhesive shrink wrap not advertised for electrical applications.

Finally, it appears to include washers and the likes, but do I need to fashion anything more for a backing plate? Or can it just go on with a big flat washer?