Repairs and upgrades for Hammerhead

clayhubler · Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2020 2:14 pm Post subject:

That sounds like a good idea. I think I'll do that, and then I'll just dry and seal the core in the forward part and put the plug back in. After epoxy sealing the edges of the hole.

C-Wolfe · Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2020 2:15 pm Post subject:

clayhubler, I also had to deal with wet foam under the v-berth (it also smell like kerosene), I did very similar cutout as you did. I have a few pictures of that project in my photo album, Let me know if you need pictures of different angle, I have good access to the boat and can add to the album, but it look like you got it figures out.

clayhubler · Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2020 2:41 pm Post subject:

Thanks C-Wolfe. Have you used the boat much since you did this modification? What are your experiences? I am worried about condensation on the inner hull surfaces that will contact the water. I'm considering putting dri-decking in there to keep stuff off the sides of the hull. I want to use the two side compartments for clothing, ect... and the front one for extra anchor, ropes... I am considering trying to get my daughter to make a sort of canvas liner that hangs from the hatch openings to keep stuff clean and dry for the sides. The front I will leave open, with the dri-decking.

thataway · Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2020 3:21 pm Post subject:

Our 25 has never had any water in the forward compartments--my LiFePO4 batteries are on one side, the 2000 watt inverter on the other side--but both are kept off the sides of the hull by both plywood and foam "suspension". If I put clothing in theses compartments I would put them in a dry bag, or at least a water resistant duffle.

C-Wolfe · Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2020 3:42 pm Post subject:

hardee · Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2020 3:20 am Post subject:

I have not done the foam removal (yet), but if/when I do, I would highly consider putting mats in the bottom to keep stuff off the sole, and allow air circulation or moisture transference without sogging up the bottom of the clothes bag.

Check out these, in variable sizes and can be unlined, so yo can cut to shape.

Vinyl Mesh Entrance Mats are constructed of an extruded vinyl in a random loop pattern.

https://www.americanfloormats.com/vinyl-mesh-entrance-mats/

Your Welcome, (original tip from Bob Austin)

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

clayhubler · Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2020 2:27 pm Post subject:

Thanks Harvey, those do look like they would work really well.

On another topic, I need to repair the windlass. It is a Powerwinch Sport Fish 450 model. It will not freefall, and it also will not hold any load. I have contacted the manufacturer about sending it to them for repair, but I haven't heard back yet.

Has anybody repaired this model of windlass? Anybody want to speculate what is wrong? I suspect that the brake has failed. I think this model is around $650 new, so I wonder if it is worth the trouble. If the repair is three or four hundred, I'd just as soon replace.

Hunkydory · Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2020 2:49 pm Post subject:

We have made several 2 to 3 month cruises in the high condensation area of SE Alaska since removing the v berth foam. The area was totally dry when the insulation was removed & no water added in that space due to condensation during our trips. Now, the v berth sleeping area will definitely condensate & the moisture from it can find its way to the storage area. I added thin somewhat sticky plastic covers over the access points, which helps. I use the forward area to store the spare anchor & chain & the side area for seldom used clothing, bulk food & paper towel rolls & other miscellaneous items. None of these have any special covering with only a small amount of moisture absorption in some of the paper wrapping of canned food stuff. I do pad the bottom of the storage area with closed cell foam lining, buts it’s not for insulation to prevent condensation, but rather padding for rough sea encounters. With cloths storage, I’ve had much more condensation problems in the cabin storage areas then under the v berth. There we have had to be very watchful in order to prevent mildew.

Jay

thataway · Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2020 7:24 pm Post subject:

I reviewed the manual for this windlass, and it does not appear to have adjustable clutch as the Lewmar do. The manual shows a "spin off gear kit" and "locking gear kit". I suspect that one of these has been stripped. The "power winch" has been around for 50 years. It started off with just a capstan, no chain gypsy, or clutch etc. It was go/no go, (one direction only) and would be used with the rope rode to pull the anchor up. It was initially an inexpensive item. They have evolved into competing with the other marine windlasses. Their marine windlasses draw less than the competition. That suggests smaller motors, or less pulling power. The prices on their web site are almost $300 more than the product is sold thru some discounters. The company appears to be owned by Carefree RV Awnings (one of the largest awning makers).

I have one of their trailer winches sitting in a box for almost 20 years...I guess I'll have to see if it works sometime..

You have the hole in the deck and mounting for this windlass. So you can either replace it--or go with one of the others which have adjustable clutches. I probably would call the company to see if they do a "rebuild swap" or rebuild yours. It would be interesting to see if this is 17 years old, as the boat is--or if it was put in more recently. (Unless. you want another project and they can send a rebuild kit)

clayhubler · Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2020 2:16 pm Post subject:

Jay, thanks for sharing your experience regarding the condensation. Sounds like it shouldn't really be a problem. I will probably use dri-deck to make an air gap and cushion the inside of the hull for anchor, ect... I think the floormats may work better, but I have a bunch of dri-deck from the cabin sole and cockpit that I don't like and will not be putting back in.

Bob, thanks for looking into the windlass. Your suggestion about the locking gear meshes with the initial response I got from the company. Via email:

clayhubler · Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2020 4:24 pm Post subject:

Alright, I'm starting to look into materials. I have a couple of different composites suppliers here in the vancouver area. I know I am going to go with 1.5" end grain balsa for the coring. Also, I am planning on west system epoxy.

What would you recommend in the way of glass cloth?
And what fillers/ thickeners do you like?

Thanks everybody for the help on this.

Brewkid · Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2020 9:14 pm Post subject:

Clay,

I'm curious what the pricing is on the balsa. Carbon balsa is about $500 delivered for 7 sheets. I ordered 1708 10 yards and some CSM(amazon order). I may try some of the West Systems Episize just to play around, but the price is likely not worth it....

R/
John
Scallywag

thataway · Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2020 10:33 pm Post subject:

I have mostly worked with West Systems--more expensive, but I have used it for many years and am comfortable with it.

1708 and eposy compatable mat--be sure the binder is OK with epoxy.

This is an article on mat and epoxy/

If you feel a need for mat, check with these folks

I might also get some 4" E-glass Biaxial (+/-45) Fiberglass cloth tape with 3/4 oz mat backing if you are going to have to tab back in structure. The one width cloth could be cut if necessary, or use epoxy comparable mat with it...just depends on how you are putting back in furniture.
Here is a cheat sheet on the various West System fillers. I use mostly Cabosil, 404 and 410 is what I keep in the shop, using a blend as necessary.

clayhubler · Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2020 5:35 pm Post subject:

John, are you going to use the carbon-core? I am going to use straight up end grain, just like the original.

Bob, thanks for the recommendations for the materials. I'm going to try and finish all cutting this weekend so I know quantities and can order on monday. I will let everybody know what the prices are.

I have looked around at a lot of the various threads on core damage and it seems initially everybody, even myself, is quick to look for other core materials to avoid putting wood back into the boat. But I have been convinced through research and by recommendations from c-brats that balsa is a good core material. I have been reading the west system fiberglass boat repair manual in my spare time. Spare time is a relative term. Anyway here is the link:
https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/Fiberglass-Manual-2015.pdf
In the section on gelcoat blisters, which I originally only skimmed over because it doesn't apply to me, I found this about polyester resins on page 59:

clayhubler · Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2020 5:50 pm Post subject:

Okay, now for the progress report. More bad news...

I decided I want to get all my cutting done, so I started out trimming around the cockpit edges where I had not gone all the way to the outside hull yet.

And I wanted to get the sump out, after I learned that it is cored underneath. I think it is 1/2 inch core. And yep, it was really wet and rotten under there.

Worst of all though was what I found at the back, between the hull and transom. I was worried about this. I found that the manufacturer butted up the hull core to the transom core. So the wet hull has infected the bottom of the transom. It looks like I will have to cut out several inches from the bottom of the transom all the way across. Then I will probably drill some holes in the inside skin of the transom and point my big heater at it and dry it out. I don't think I am going to drill as many holes as I did in the cabin sole, it seems to be drying easily in there. Here is the bottom edge:

Also, I am not putting all my images in the posts, there are more photos in my album.