Backing plate for Lewmar pivoting bow roller?

thataway · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2020 7:08 pm Post subject:

The 1990 vintage built boats may be entirely different than the later boats.

Same or similar deck molds have nothing to do with the coring. That has to do with the "lay up' and where the coring is placed.

The pivoting roller allows many anchors to be "self launching" when they are not with the solid roller. If don't want self lanuching--then.....

Yes, a photo which shows the "bulge' of the 3/4" deep coring will help. The hull to deck joint is an edge to edge joint, and not a "shoe box" joint where the top or deck molding drops over the hull molding. The hull to deck joint is glassed together on the inside, instead of an extrusion with a "H" section profile. Thus is much stronger than many hulls. This allows full inspection of the upper deck mold.

clayhubler · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2020 7:42 pm Post subject:

The core doesn't need to be "cut back" really. Using a dremel tool with some kind of rotary file works to kind of ream out the core around the hole. I actually only drilled 7/16 holes and then sealed the core with epoxy because I thought that would suffice.
I suppose the best way would be to drill a 1/2 or slightly oversized hole through the top skin and core but not the bottom that way you could easily fill with thickened epoxy. Then drill your holes all the way through after it cures.