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Dubuque chad



Joined: 06 Jul 2019
Posts: 21

PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 1:02 pm    Post subject: Question for sailors Reply with quote

Ok. I've been around this sight enough to know there are more than a few sailors on board. My question. I need to replace the shrouds on my 11' Lockly Newport blue crab. The shroud length is 13' but the mast is 16'. I'm having a hard time identifying a 13' shroud. Do I need to be searching based on that or the height of the mast overall. And any good online sail sights would be great.
Thanks in advance.
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srbaum



Joined: 30 Aug 2010
Posts: 583
City/Region: Portsmouth
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 26 Venture
Vessel Name: Osprey
Photos: Osprey
PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An alternative to wire and fittings is to just go with a small diameter Dyneema line. You can buy the stuff relatively inexpensive and make it up to fit. Be careful that you secure it at each end with multiple half hitches, as the line is super slippery and a simple knot at the end will not do.
I changed out the shrouds on my Corsair trimaran Several years ago and would never go back to 1/4 inch wire rope, along with all the The heavy related turnbuckles and other hardware.
If you are interested in seeing the synthetic rigging, pm me and I will send photos.

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Steve Baum
Homeport of Portsmouth, VA
OSPREY (Ex Mister Sea) 2000 22 C-Dory 2010 - Sold 3/19
OSPREY (Ex ADITI) 2007 26 Cape Cruiser 2018
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 18038
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a neat little boat. I would agree with Steve, that one of the synthetics (non stretch like Dyneema (Spectra, Amsteel Blue, etc) would be ideal for the shrouds. This is a 2/3 rig, and so you don't need the full mast height on the shrouds. I probably would keep wire for the forestay, because of abrasion...but there are some who have more expertise with synthetic rigging that I.

The synthetics can be spliced--so a thimble and toggle may be necessary for the upper termination. The lower will probably again a splice around a thimble, and either a series of lighter non stretch rigging or a turnbuckle--thru a toggle. Knots are difficult to secure. For example a bowline can be used, (Water Bowline is better) but then I would sew or at least put heat shrink adhesive tubing on the "tail".

The problem is that with any rigging on an 11 foot boat, has to be taken down and set up on a regular basis when the boat is transported. Usually dead eyes and lashing are used with these non stretch ropes. That is why you may still want to go with turnbuckles on the shrouds. The radius of the attachment must be at least the diameter of the line--and the length of the eye, if around a solid pin at least 3x the diameter of the line. A splice will retain close to 100% of the strength of the line. A knot will be 40 to 50% of the strength.

I would have at least an extra foot on each end for the splice. There are a number of good videos on the internet, for an eye splice. You want to be sure it is secure.
I have made several soft shackles from Dyneema and the splice is fairly easy. A locked Brummel splice is probably the best, but I would take a couple passes of Dacron thru the outer braid and core with a needle and tie it off, burn the ends. it to 100% lock the tail. (Or adhesive shrink wrap over an entry into the core).

I also use Dynemma for the "clothes line" which is over the galley in my 25. In that case I just tied bowlines and used adhesive shrink wrap over the tails. They don't have to be super tight.

Have fun sailing!

_________________
Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
Posts: 3376
City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shrouds aren't usually identified by their length, though it's important to have it the right length. One can measure the wire diameter and construction and then swag up a new shroud of the right length and fittings. One can get galvanized, stainless or fiber wire as discussed above.

Construction just means the number of wires in a strand and the number of strands in the wire.

Or, take the existing shroud to a rigging shop and ask them to make one just like it.

Boris
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 18038
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the basic sail (and rigging) plan for the mast, with Main and Jib:



There are no spreaders, and the port and starboard shrouds attach at the same point as the forestay. This allows the forestay to stay tight--you can probably control a slight bend in the mast to flatter the sail if you wish, with wedges on the mast partners, and tension on the shrouds.

You have a single "hound" on the mast. It attaches the fore stay, in the front. Below will be the jib halyard. On each side, under the bolt head or nut is attached a tang or point for the upper part of the shroud,

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