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Rub rail - slit behind rail

 
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Major Tom



Joined: 04 Jul 2016
Posts: 77
City/Region: Saratoga Springs
State or Province: NY
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Major Tom
PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 2:31 pm    Post subject: Rub rail - slit behind rail Reply with quote

I had 9 of the rub rail rivets come loose on the forward starboard side, and am repairing it. My boat is a 2005 CD22 and it has the slit behind the rub rail, running the length of the rail, as far as I can tell. The rivet holes are in line with the slit, and the slit isn't very deep, from what I can tell, maybe 1/8"-1/4". I think I read in one of the posts about some boats having the slit, but I can't find it again and can't remember the detail. Anyway, should I leave the slit as-is, or try to seal it with 4200 or 4000? Seems like water will definitely get in there due to that slit and will corrode the rivets? OTOH maybe the slit will allow it to dry better? And I can't remember the purpose of the slit, other than possible drying, I can't see the advantage. For now I'm just repairing the 9 broken rivets to get back on the water, but at some point I'll need to take both rails off and do them all with SS screws/bolts.

Thanks to Sunbeam's excellent write-up and some others, it's going pretty smoothly. FWIW, some of the caulk blobs were very hard, probably glassed over. They were difficult, I had to use a hacksaw blade and a small sheetrock hand saw to carefully wear down the thin layer of glass. I tried a small grinder attachment for a drill but it was too easy to go too far. After gently tapping from the outside with a punch, then going back inside to trim the now-slightly-raised glass and caulk, I got them off.

I started with 8 broken rivets but as I was working with the rail I pulled it out just a bit too far and the 9th one pulled out from the outside, even though I hadn't touched it. But it didn't come off the rivet head like the others, the whole thing pulled right out. And instead of a thin rivet rod and mandrel like the others, the aluminum rod part that goes through the hull was deformed and much larger than the others... almost like a blob of aluminum. Maybe it mushroomed somehow, which is odd. Or did the factory use some kind of "blob rivet" that was sealed in the glass? Luckily I was able to chisel off the rivet head and separate the mushroom and drilled a clean hole for the new screw.

Thanks for the help!
Tom

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Tom Whitten
2005 C-Dory 22 Cruiser/90HP Honda
1993 Sea Ray 230 Sundancer (sold)
1987 Checkmate Enticer (sold)
1986 Sea Nymph (sold)
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Major Tom



Joined: 04 Jul 2016
Posts: 77
City/Region: Saratoga Springs
State or Province: NY
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Major Tom
PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took a closer look at the slit, and I answered my own question, at least on that part... the slit is only about 1/4" deep, and by simply sealing each hole well before inserting the screw, my new screws will be well protected. But for the old ones, well, I'm sure I'll be taking both rails off completely one of these days and redoing them all... it's far too easy for water to get in that slit and stay there.

But I'm still curious as to its purpose, it's effect on corrosion, and the "blob" mushroomed rivet. If I'd been tapping too hard I could see it would mushroom like that, but I didn't tap that one at all, it just pulled out with very moderate force, from the outside of the boat. Hmmm.

Also, in case it helps anyone else, most of my screws are ending up to be 1.25", not 1" as many have said. If you're ordering in advance of tackling the job, so you can't really measure yet, order some of those too and maybe even 1.5".
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tsturm



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 964
City/Region: Soldotna
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: JMR TOO
Photos: JMR-TOO
PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Tom wrote:
I took a closer look at the slit, and I answered my own question, at least on that part... the slit is only about 1/4" deep, and by simply sealing each hole well before inserting the screw, my new screws will be well protected. But for the old ones, well, I'm sure I'll be taking both rails off completely one of these days and redoing them all... it's far too easy for water to get in that slit and stay there.

But I'm still curious as to its purpose, it's effect on corrosion, and the "blob" mushroomed rivet. If I'd been tapping too hard I could see it would mushroom like that, but I didn't tap that one at all, it just pulled out with very moderate force, from the outside of the boat. Hmmm.

Also, in case it helps anyone else, most of my screws are ending up to be 1.25", not 1" as many have said. If you're ordering in advance of tackling the job, so you can't really measure yet, order some of those too and maybe even 1.5".


There are pop rivets that split into 3 Big legs when the mandrel is drawn out? Kind of like a wall molly for drywall. Beer

I used stainless 3/16 X 3/4 pop rivets with a back up washer on the inside sealed with 5200 when I did mine 12 years back Thumbs Up
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Major Tom



Joined: 04 Jul 2016
Posts: 77
City/Region: Saratoga Springs
State or Province: NY
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Major Tom
PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it doesn't split into 3 legs but it had mushroomed pretty well, apparenlty. Anyway, I got those finished for now and can get back on the water, let's hope the other's don't start pulling out,a t least until Fall! But I can see that I'll need to pull both rails at some point and replace all those rivets.
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