Advice on replacing boat trailer for our C-Dory Cruiser 22

[itiming]

Looking for advice to assist our planning to replace the trailer under our C-Dory Cruiser 22.

Our current trailer is a 2007 EZ Loader galvanized, tandem axle, roller trailer. It has 13 inch wheels, hydraulic surge drum brakes (both axles) and 4000 lb capacity.

We wish to move to a higher capacity trailer — esp with larger wheels (can get load range D tires in 14 inch) — to better manage longer distance trailering. Most of our trips are to Lake Superior (25 to 350 miles). We also plan to trailer to the Pacific NW — as our daughter’s family lives near the sound in Washington State. We plan to continue some winter travel to the Gulf coast. Our likely split is 75%/25% fresh/salt water.

For C-Dory 22 sized boats, we see lots of steel roller trailers near us (Lake Superior south shore). When traveling to the coasts, we see lots more aluminum bunk trailers. I do think an aluminum tandem axle trailer would be a good option — as we could gain capacity while minimizing the GVWR increase — though with more cost.

Are any specific trailers better suited for the C-Dory? Any specific Dealers/Brands?

EZ Loader and Shorelander trailers are available in our area — both make aluminum models.

What new trailer technology is effective? We have heard of sealed bearing vaults — which seem an improvement. Bunks that slide as well as rollers? FWIW, our boat trailers all have surge brakes, our cargo trailers all have electric brakes.

Anyone know of dealers with trailer inventory in stock; or how long availability might be? It took 6 weeks for us to get a replacement axle on a cargo trailer this spring.

Thanks for your advice.

[jennykatz]

I would look at and buy an aluminum trailer with SS bolts and nuts
Also for the cd-22 I would get a bunk trailer it lowers the boat between the tandem axle wheels Also get torsion axles With disc brakes And LED lights .That about sums it up

BTW trailerS are a lot less expensive in Florida and most come the way I ordered mine

Also I was a trailer rep 25 years ago

[Baxter]

Aluminum
Torque axles
14” fine. Goodyear trailer tires best. All bass Contest
people use travel And
Lots of miles at high speed. I have fought with cheap tires for years.
On long trips. Not cheap but great tires.

I would get electric over hydraulic surge brakes, disk of course.

Good trailers cost but worth it in long run if do distances we put 5-8 k per year except this year of course.

You asked for ideas. Closer to manufacture the cheaper the cost.

Would not recommend Trial-rite at all. You can pm me reasons.

Good luck.

[journey on]

Well, to be able to rush in and give advice is not to be ignored.

First of all, Journey On sits on a e-z loader roller trailer. With EOH disk brakes. Also, that trailer is 15 years old and has been used 100% in salt water. Just so we're all clear where I'm coming from. I can recommend e-z loader.

I don't think one can buy an all steel trailer anymore. So you're going to get an "aluminum" trailer, with steel axles and hitches. Which isn't bad, but not as light as you would hope for. And by the way, stainless, aluminum and salt water don't mix. Go with galvanized bolts.

My last 2 trailers have been roller trailers and I think they are great; especially if you are going to launch at different ramps, some of which you haven't seen before. It makes it so easy. Those of us who swear by bunks mostly launch at the same ramps and don't know what it takes to get the boat off when you meet a crappy ramp.

I love disk brakes, cars, trailers or trucks. They work better, are easier to work on and look cool. As far as EOH, that's up to you. They're mandatory on a 25, but you have a 22. Though EOH are better than surge on down hills, backing up and in an emergency.

I've had a lot of problems with tyres bursting at the wrong place in the highway. In the interest of long life (mine), I've tried several solutions. First, I went to load range D, which have a higher load rating. Still burst on long trips after a year of service. Note that all these tyres were made in China. So I went to truck tyres, since my truck tyres last a long time. End of problems. They claim the sidewalls aren't as stiff, but I haven't noticed anything different.

Boris

[thataway]

Yes, Aluminum trailer, with bunks--you can get slicks on front part (25 to 50%, but be sure and strap down well). SS fittings. Oil bath bearings. You can use electric brakes, but they will be drum, and you will have to wash out well with fresh water if you do use in salt water. I have put electric over hydraulic on my last 22--the best--if the trailer comes with no brakes. A few hundred more than paying for standard surge/disc brakes. E/H works with controller.

Go to 5000# at least--better 5500#.

[kaelc]

We looked at both Tuff and Load Rite and just went with a Load Rite Elite. Both are Aluminum. Big fan of disc brakes and on ours they are really accessible for flushing an we will try and flush with salt away after each dunk. The elite also has an adjustable hitch hight which is great, since we town with a Dodge, Ford and Toyota.

We went with Electric over hydraulic but it is overkill for my F350 but also mandatory for a 25 in BC as the weight of boat and trailer was over 6100lbs. Good luck with your search.

[kaelc]

We also went with bunks with guides.

[WeekiTiki]

My trailer actually has a wash system for the brakes

[itiming]

Much appreciate all the advice. The closest aluminum trailer dealer to me is about 170 miles away in the Twin Cities. Here is a pict of the aluminum trailer the company and dealer recommends (a Venture trailer).

VATB5925 - surge disc brakes on both axles, radial tires, galvanized rims, target front bunks, LED lights and a dual wheel tongue jack.







Adding a spare tire and load guides seems appropriate.

I don't have experience with bunk trailers (mine are roller, except for a light fishing boat). Would this bunk arrangement be sufficient for support?

Other observations?

[alainP]

A space in the bunks to run sling straps is nice to have if a crane is ever used.

[colbysmith]

I forgot what Jack had under his boat. The last 4 years or so I trailered Midnight Flyer 10,000-12,000 miles annually. (CD-22). She sat on a 2007 EZ Loader double axle that initially came with just two bunks and surge brakes. I replaced the surge with just plain electric and also fabricated a fresh water rinse system. The newer 25 I purchased recently came with surge SS disks and I added an Electric over Hydraulic actuator. The first thing I've noticed is with the disk brakes, the hubs run just a little hotter when stopping. I don't do that much salt water launching, so I will very likely go back to just regular electric brakes if I replace the trailer, or need to replace a caliper or any other major brake work. I run oil bath bearings, which run cooler than grease. That's advantage, along with being able to see the condition of the oil thru the plastic hub cab. The only disadvantage is, if you lose the oil (busted cap, etc.) and don't catch it in time, you will fry the bearing. However, I've seen folks fry bearings with grease, so maybe it's not that big of a disadvantage! After owning both bunks and rollers, I find the bunks are much better! I also added two more bunks under Midnight Flyer, so she had 4 bunks total. Just better support! I run Carlisle's. Others can swear by American Made or more expensive tires, but I've put 50,000 miles on Carlisles without issue. (Other than running over a nail or one time a bunch of glass.) If you are doing a lot of mountain towing, your really want better brake control over the trailer, be it straight electric or electric over hydraulic. I've had both Torsion and springs. Both have worked for me. On really long trips, I've carried two spares. (Only because I had them...) I also carry spare oil bath hubs & caps, and oil. And a bottle jack. I also made up a "toad" system to keep the boat batteries charged while boaterhoming. John or Bob can point you in the right direction for something if you don't want to make your own. I also agree with going to an aluminum trailer and LED lighting. I've also added backup lights on the trailers for night backing. I also agree with if possible have a cut out in the bunks so that if you get a sling launch, they can easily get the sling under the stern of the boat without having to use a jack. So to sum it up, these are the things I would want in a trailer:

-Aluminum dual axle bunk
-electric drums or EOH (electric over hydraulic) stainless steel disk
-LED lighting
-4 bunks, rather than just two. (The one I had, the center two ran more forward whereas the outside two were more aft.)

I towed behind a Toyota Highlander at 60mph, and now behind a Ford F150 at 65mph. I keep the trailer tires covered when stored for more than a week or so. Brakes and bearings see preventive maintenance.

Anyway, my two cents. COlby

[hardee]

I personally don't like the canted (angled) winch posts on those trailers. I would as for some additional bracing. That looks weak, should there be a radical change in forward inertia. (Easily yields to forward pressure -- not stopping the boat.) Always remember to secure the bow DOWN to the trailer.

My favorite is Pacific, Galvanized, tandem and bunks. Comments for Torsion, Electric over Hydrolic, LED and built on wash down are all worth considering. Goodyear Endurance tires, Made in USA, and not more than 3 months from manufacture date should be a MUST.

I'm on my second Pacific - changed to get a tandem - and then I lowered the bunks by 3 inches. Well worth looking at that as an option in the initial order.

Harvey
SleepyC

[thataway]

The trailer pictured is set up for a deep "V"--you would have to change the main bunk system. There is an angle on the top of the bunks, and it would give minimal support for the flat bottom C Dory.

The target bunks make for easier loading. You may want two sets of bunks on each side aft...But single will work, for example a 2" x 8"

[colbysmith]

Actually, my current trailer under our 25 looks a little like that. That is the boards are upright. Seems to support the boat ok. I also have two target bunks towards the bow. I changed those over to Starboard (hard plastic) recently. As for the bow stop, I've never seen anything but the angled upright. It has always worked well for me on the boats/trailers I've owned. I usually set it up so the bow eye is just under the roller once the boat is loaded. Then I keep the winch strap tight. That in itself helps to keep the boat from bouncing up over the roller in an emergency. Of course I also have a safety strap on it as well. And with C-Traveler I also have a third strap that adds a downward angle to keep the boat taught against that bow stop. Colby

[Nancy and Bud]

When we bought Emma Mae, the PO had just bought a Venture trailer for it.

I'm pleased with the quality and ride. We have trailers sailboats all over the US and Canada. This is the first aluminum trailer we have owned.

If I were in the market, I wouldn't hesitate buying another.

Be sure to get brakes on all 4 wheels. It costs more to add them than having them as OEM.

One thing I would caution about. I hook the rear strap on the I beam right next to the rear cross brace. There isn't such a strong brace for the front. I started by hooking the front strap on the inside bottom flange of the I beam on each side but noticed the I beam twisted some as their design strength is in the vertical direction. I then routed one side of the strap to the outside flange on the other side and the other strap to the inside flange. Therefore equalizing the pull and eliminating the twist on the I beam.

Regarding the bunks. The tops are cut at a slant that matches the slant of the bottom of the hull and therefore contact the boat for their whole length.