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Adding Tomcat Thru-Hull for Washdown
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John S



Joined: 06 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 24 Tomcat
Vessel Name: TomCat
Photos: TomCat
PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2020 3:38 pm    Post subject: Adding Tomcat Thru-Hull for Washdown Reply with quote

Hi guys,
My current marine head and wash-down intake thru-hull was mounted near the bow on my 24 Tomcat.
When underway the intake is out off the water.
I wash my boat and clean fish while underway. I need a working wash down pump. Years ago I was at the Seattle Boat Show and saw a brand new Tomcat with a rear mounted intake strainer on the inside of the port pontoon.
I’m going to drill a hole and put mine there too. I have some concerns about disrupting the water flow so close to my prop.

Does anyone else have a Tomcat with a rearward strainer thru-hull that could show me a picture???

Any other thoughts on any problems with this position?
I’m adding a “high speed” strainer with the grills pointed forward.
Thanks, John

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2000 TomCat 24
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www.AlaskaAdventureJournal.com
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rogerbum



Joined: 21 Nov 2004
Posts: 5922
City/Region: Kenmore
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Meant to be
Photos: SeaDNA
PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2020 4:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Adding Tomcat Thru-Hull for Washdown Reply with quote

John S wrote:
Hi guys,
My current marine head and wash-down intake thru-hull was mounted near the bow on my 24 Tomcat.
When underway the intake is out off the water.
I wash my boat and clean fish while underway. I need a working wash down pump. Years ago I was at the Seattle Boat Show and saw a brand new Tomcat with a rear mounted intake strainer on the inside of the port pontoon.
I’m going to drill a hole and put mine there too. I have some concerns about disrupting the water flow so close to my prop.

Does anyone else have a Tomcat with a rearward strainer thru-hull that could show me a picture???

Any other thoughts on any problems with this position?
I’m adding a “high speed” strainer with the grills pointed forward.
Thanks, John


I have my through hull strainer on the port side sponson. My boat is about 200 miles away so no picture is possible for awhile. With the engines hanging off the bracket, the props are far enough away that the strainer has essentially zero impact on water flow at the prop.

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John S



Joined: 06 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 24 Tomcat
Vessel Name: TomCat
Photos: TomCat
PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2020 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Roger!
I have the 24 tomcat, with your 25 I think you have a mounting bracket on the back for your motors that puts them further away than mine from the hull.
Im assuming your intake is mounted on the tunnel side of the hull?

Thanks
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gulfcoast john



Joined: 14 Dec 2012
Posts: 989
City/Region: PENSACOLA
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2010
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Cat O' Mine
Photos: CAT O' MINE
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2020 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John,
Yes, you want this through-hull to be on the tunnel side of the port sponson, (or opposite your CHIRP or depth sounder) and lower than your ‘inner cage’ trailer frame guide-on.

It can’t be on the bottom of the sponson because that would drag on the trailer supports.

Your boat and the TC255 differ only in the addition of an engine bracket, which doesn’t matter here. Both boats are ass heavy squatters, the TC255 more so.

I would suggest drilling from the outside sponson in, to be sure you miss the trailer cage etc, after making sure there is nothing in the way inside the sponson. Get a real Groco marine valve with a 500 lb sideways rating and glass it in per the experts (not me!).

If this pic doesn’t work, it’s on the last page of our album.

[/img]http://www.c-brats.com/albums/CAT-O-MINE/DSC03957.sized.jpg[img]

Good Luck!
John[/img]

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2010 Tom Cat 255, Cat O' Mine
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20814
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2020 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John,
here you go--just got the IMG mixed up:


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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
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Home port: Pensacola FL
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John S



Joined: 06 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 24 Tomcat
Vessel Name: TomCat
Photos: TomCat
PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 4:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys!

Unfortunately I got the response and photo about 10 minutes after I crawled out of my hull from drilling the hole. Smile

I installed a high speed bronze intake strainer. I put it it a little lower on the hull than the one in the picture. It is well below the center trailer guide.
I had already ordered and bought a bronze shut off valve manufactured from "Marine Hardware" that includes a bonding screw.

My intake strainer has the hole for the pipe and four screws around the perimeter. I will try to add a photo soon.

I made a pilot hole from the inside and then drilled with my hole saw from the outside.
Thanks
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20814
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know if you are finished. It is common to add a backing wood block or something like a fiberglass block on the inside just to spread the load out a little. I believe that the 255 is not cored at the point where you drilled the hole.

Good location, and should work well.
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John S



Joined: 06 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 24 Tomcat
Vessel Name: TomCat
Photos: TomCat
PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thataway wrote:
Don't know if you are finished. It is common to add a backing wood block or something like a fiberglass block on the inside just to spread the load out a little. I believe that the 255 is not cored at the point where you drilled the hole.

Good location, and should work well.


Hi Bob., Thanks for reiterating the backing comment! I have not sealed this through hull in yet I was waiting to get some SS fender washers as backers to the perimeter screws.

Where I drilled my main 1/2” hole the fiberglass was about 1/4 inch thick. The perimeter screw holes below are even thicker and the two perimeter holes just above are surprisingly thin and only a little over 1/8“.
I like the idea of a backer but I have full access to the inside of the hull with the tanks out. I prefer her not to use wood. I have starboard material or I could even add a couple layers of 1708.
Very open to ideas and size.

All of my hardware associated with this through hull is bronze except that I can’t find bronze screws for those perimeter holes even at the largest ships chandlery in Alaska. In fact they even pointed out that they get packings with bronze and stainless mixed all the time and don’t have problems with it. Thoughts? I was going with stainless screws.

I added an image of the through hull to my album but not sure how to get the image HTML on my iPhone to post it here.

Thanks so much!
John
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ricka



Joined: 05 May 2019
Posts: 50
City/Region: Yreka
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2020
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Photos: ricka
PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 7:26 pm    Post subject: through hull Reply with quote

John
Sounds like you already placed your hole. I drilled mine on the bottom of the port hull toward the tunnel where the hull veers up at a slight angle as per Northwest Marines advice on a 2020 Tomcat. Can not tell you how well it works yet as I believe I have installed one of the check valves in wrong. Just took it out for the 1st time this last weekend and could not get it to prime.
I will let you know how it goes.
Did you install two check valves on yours?
I purchased the graco wash down kit which comes pre mounted on starboard with two check valves and a bronze thru hull.

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John S



Joined: 06 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 24 Tomcat
Vessel Name: TomCat
Photos: TomCat
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 5:08 am    Post subject: Re: through hull Reply with quote

ricka wrote:
John
Sounds like you already placed your hole. I drilled mine on the bottom of the port hull toward the tunnel where the hull veers up at a slight angle as per Northwest Marines advice on a 2020 Tomcat. Can not tell you how well it works yet as I believe I have installed one of the check valves in wrong. Just took it out for the 1st time this last weekend and could not get it to prime.
I will let you know how it goes.
Did you install two check valves on yours?
I purchased the graco wash down kit which comes pre mounted on starboard with two check valves and a bronze thru hull.


Yes, my hole is drilled. Added a couple layers of fiberglass yesterday, trying to decide if that is enough to suffice for a backing plate.
I have two washdown systems on two different boats but there are no check valves installed anywhere inline like you stated. I wouldn’t be surprised If there was one integral to the pump, but that’s about it.

John
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20814
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check valves are notorious for failure. The reason for a check valve would be if there is difficulty priming the pump. Graco is an excellent brand; it is rated to be self priming at up to 36" (C80) and 24" (C60). It does have rigid vanes, vs the flexible vanes as in some wash down system. (The flexible will self prime at a higher elevation from the source.)
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Gene Morris



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 424
City/Region: Eureka CA
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Reef Madness
Photos: Reefmadness
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have a factory installed washdown. There was Brass & Stainless mixed with no evident problems. The only problem was the pick up, It was not a high speed pick-up and was not satisfactory. I have since installed a high speed pick-up and works well even at speed. We clean fish on board and also fish albacore, which make a great mess on the boat.
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ricka



Joined: 05 May 2019
Posts: 50
City/Region: Yreka
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2020
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Photos: ricka
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 12:05 pm    Post subject: TomCat washdown pump Reply with quote

I had everting installed in the correct direction, it took sticking a cut off hose in the bronze intake mushroom to get it primed. We took it down to Shasta again and had it working for a few minutes.
The issue I have now is the Blue Sea switch panel the factory installed on the transom which was prewired for a wash down pump is only rated for a max 20 amp fuse and the pump calls for a 30 amp. I have looked on the Blue Sea site to find a matching style waterproof switch panel that is rated to take a 30amp fuse. I cant find any brand that is rated for that.
Any Ideas?
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John S



Joined: 06 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 24 Tomcat
Vessel Name: TomCat
Photos: TomCat
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thataway wrote:
Don't know if you are finished. It is common to add a backing wood block or something like a fiberglass block on the inside just to spread the load out a little. I believe that the 255 is not cored at the point where you drilled the hole.

Good location, and should work well.


Hi Bob, it is not cored at my hole location I added two layers of 1708 at the location do you think that might be sufficient or should I still add some other type of blocking?
Thanks,
John
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ricka



Joined: 05 May 2019
Posts: 50
City/Region: Yreka
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2020
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Photos: ricka
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 2:54 pm    Post subject: Thru Hull Reply with quote

Hi John,
If interested Groco has backing blocks which are made out of a kind of porous fiber so they soak up epoxy real well and they have the nut inserts to fit many bronze flanges. I just posted the pics of my install in my album.

Rick
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