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Securing anchor to anchor roller
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curioustraveler



Joined: 26 Apr 2019
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 2:20 pm    Post subject: Securing anchor to anchor roller Reply with quote

Good afternoon C-Brats. I'm looking for ideas to secure the anchor to the anchor roller. The boat came with a Danforth style anchor and the previous owner secured the chain to the foredeck cleat. I don't like this because I need the deck cleat for dock lines and it also doesn't hold the anchor tightly into the roller so it can rattle around.

I'm thinking a small but strong bungie cord around the crown and back to the metal loop that goes over the roller might work. Could also use a line but tying it might get complicated and it needs to be something simple so my wife can secure it.

Any ideas?
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends on how the anchor sits on the roller. On my boat the anchor has a straight shank. It will lie on/in the roller by itself. To keep it from bouncing out, a small velcro strap around the shank/roller arm keeps it in place nicely. I just want to keep the anchor from tipping forward and rolling off the roller.

This may not work well for anchors with self deploying shanks (e.g. curved), but a Danforth usually has a straight shank.

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it a real Danforth/West Marine or knock off? It does make a difference. In the Chesapeake a Danforth will work most of the time.

You can use a chain stopper. Not sure if I still have one or I gave it to the auction at Hontoon. Anyway, they work with a lever and a hook into the chain, or a chain stopper--which is like a cam which comes over the chain.

We use a piece of line with a carabiner on it, and tie the line to the main bow cleat which is in back of the windlass. The line is double braid and about 5 feet long. This is a "safety line"--the chain in the windlass is the primary "holder". But you should never trust a windlass to hold the anchor--even going down the road...! The line carabiner can go into the chain, or into the shackle at the top of the shank of the anchor.

I would not trust a bungee on the crown.

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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
"...it needs to be something simple so my wife can secure it.

Any ideas?"


Sure Wink Let her drive the boat and then you can deal with the knot and the anchor. OR, (It doesn't look like you have a windless) add a jam cleat and a 3 foot piece of line that can be reached from the hatch, and then just let it go with the anchor. (Of course, no knot in the end of that line.) Looks like you still get to go forward to retrieve (weigh) the anchor.

What about a bungie that goes from the forward foot of the cleat to the head of the shank or a chain link there?

Harvey
SleepyC Moon


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curioustraveler



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SSobel,

I think my anchor needs something pulling it in tight or it'll just fall forward out of the roller. Something like a velcro strap might make it sit in there nicely but I think if I hit a big wave it'll fall forward.

Thataway, I believe it's a real Danforth but in all the other activity related to buying this boat I haven't looked closely at it. I'm trying to avoid tying anything back to the cleat because I'll need as much space on the cleat as possible for the dock lines. If I can't come up with anything else then I may just have to run a small line back to the cleat.

Hardee, it's funny you mention that because my wife much prefers to drive. I have to fight her to let me take the helm. The jam cleat isn't a bad idea.

Here's a pic. I'd love to see if I can come up with a way to secure it like this (the red line) and leave my cleat free for dock lines. (The white line over the crown is just there for when I trailered her.)

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hardee



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still wondering, when you say "lines" tied to the cleat, How many and what size? I have one 3/4" line on that cleat and that is all. Only very rarely have I ever put a second line over that cleat, but the was still room. (And the other lines are all 1/2" or 3/8" would be the smallest.) See the my photo with my previous post.

Seems like getting out to where your "red line" rope would be would be putting someone on the verge of .... splash Shocked (Might be able to run a line from the anchor up to the bow pulpit and do the same thing easier and safer.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon



Last edited by hardee on Tue Apr 07, 2020 6:36 pm; edited 2 times in total
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curioustraveler



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When she's in the slip I'll have one line from the forward cleat going to each side. A piling on one side and the dock on the other.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

curioustraveler wrote:
When she's in the slip I'll have one line from the forward cleat going to each side. A piling on one side and the dock on the other.


Oh ouch, That sounds like too much w*^k Wink

Got it, no floating dock.

Harvey
[b]SleepyC[/b

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ssobol



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

curioustraveler wrote:
SSobel,

I think my anchor needs something pulling it in tight or it'll just fall forward out of the roller. Something like a velcro strap might make it sit in there nicely but I think if I hit a big wave it'll fall forward.



I think that putting a strap around the shank like I have will hold your anchor just fine. FWIW, while the boat is on the trailer, get a strap and put it like my image shows and then see how hard it is to get the anchor free by pulling on the anchor flukes.

Put a strap where the green bar is in this image. I use the 6" or 9" velcro cinch straps that WM sells for a buck or 2 each (best deal in the place). If it is like my anchor you'll be surprised at how secure it is. On my boat the velcro strap is pretty much all that secures the anchor when it is stowed.

It's all about balance and CG. The actual force causing the anchor to pivot out of the bow roller is not very much (until the anchor CG goes over center to the deploy position). If the anchor will sit in the stowed position without being tied off, then the force on the strap is very low. You are only wanting to prevent upsets of the anchor due to jostling (either waves or bumps when on the trailer).

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Micahbigsur@msn.com



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Our setup on Sierra is similar to Bob's except we use an Amsteel 1/4" line to the cleat behind the windless, it is stronger than steel and takes up virtually none of the room on the cleat leaving plenty of room for dock lines.
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thataway



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not enthusiast about having ropes of any type against sharp edges (Like the crown, or the SS strap on the anchor roller. That a leads to chafe. I would not feel secure with just a velcro strap...I want some line pulling aft on the shank, or a chain stopper:



Or Chain tensioner.



Agree with Micah that a small line round the base of the cleat will not have any substantial effect on the use of the cleat for a couple of dock lines. You can use any small line even 3/16, put a carabiner or chain hook on one end (can be spliced on, as mine is. Then tie an overhand loop about 4 to 6 inches forward of the cleat, and run the free end of the line, after going a single pass around the cleat, thru the loop, and then a couple of half hitches would be secure. The strap may make it even more so.

I use enough of the double sided Velcro I buy it in larger rolls and cut off what I need.
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journey on



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have both a West Marine knockoff Danforth and the real deal Danforth Hi-Tensile, the same size. The anchors are the same dimension and configuration. I assume the difference is in the materials and workmanship.

Just barely fit in the aft lazeret since its only on the front when I'm anchoring in rocks or seaweed. I usually use a Bruce anchor if it's mud or sand. Or I change to a Ronca every once in a while.

When towing, I tie the anchor off to the front of the pulpit. When on the water the windlass holds the anchor up. In an emergency, I want to be able to deploy the anchor without going up front. The pull of the anchor on the windlass hasn't caused any trouble yet.

Boris
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Pacificcoast101



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote




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Peter & Judy



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a high quality rubber bungie. Attach it to the rear hole in the anchor and then wrap it around the forward cleat. Simple and cheap.
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drbridge



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Our set up looks very similar to Phil Garner's photo, only we use a stainless steel grab hook to connect to the anchor chain and then tie it off to the cleat. It is easy to connect and easy to disconnect and it has never fallen off the chain. I can stand up in the V birth hatch to connect and disconnect it without having to get on the deck. The problem with a C-dory 22 with a windlass is there is no room in between the windlass and the anchor shank to easily tie the anchor off. I am planning to get a clamcleat with the fairlead to mount immediately aft of the deck cleat to make tying off even quicker and easier. I will let you know how it works out.
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