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my oil looks like a milkshake :(
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tsturm



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TyBoo wrote:
I would be interested in learning how frequent overheat can put water in the crankcase. If it was hot enough to warp the head you would not have needed an overheat alarm to know it. And why would it only do it to the brand new oil and not the previous oil if it was a long term condition?

I am not doubting your mechanic, but genuinely interested in knowing. I learn stuff on here all the time and am always appreciative when I do.

Best of luck with the replacement.


Crack in cil. head between water jacket & combustion chamber?
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cmetzenberg



Joined: 04 Jan 2014
Posts: 367
City/Region: Santa Barbara
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Kanaloa
Photos: Kanaloa
PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TyBoo wrote:
I would be interested in learning how frequent overheat can put water in the crankcase. If it was hot enough to warp the head you would not have needed an overheat alarm to know it. And why would it only do it to the brand new oil and not the previous oil if it was a long term condition?

I am not doubting your mechanic, but genuinely interested in knowing. I learn stuff on here all the time and am always appreciative when I do.

Best of luck with the replacement.


right now i am doubting my mechanic. He has a questionable reputation but is the honda rep in the area.
I never got an overheat alarm, just the occasionally alarm for kelp on the intakes, which was cleared. occasionally that would result in a safety shutdown. Could that have been bad enough to trash an engine?!

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07' Tomcat 255 "Kanaloa"
87' Boston Whaler Guardian 17 (BlackFlag, 03-14)
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tsturm



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 1134
City/Region: Soldotna
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: JMR TOO
Photos: JMR-TOO
PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cmetzenberg wrote:
TyBoo wrote:
I would be interested in learning how frequent overheat can put water in the crankcase. If it was hot enough to warp the head you would not have needed an overheat alarm to know it. And why would it only do it to the brand new oil and not the previous oil if it was a long term condition?

I am not doubting your mechanic, but genuinely interested in knowing. I learn stuff on here all the time and am always appreciative when I do.

Best of luck with the replacement.


right now i am doubting my mechanic. He has a questionable reputation but is the honda rep in the area.
I never got an overheat alarm, just the occasionally alarm for kelp on the intakes, which was cleared. occasionally that would result in a safety shutdown. Could that have been bad enough to trash an engine?!


Only takes once to overheat, warp & or crack something.
If it's apart should be easy enough to tell & good time to inspect cil. walls etc.
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jakevolvo@yahoo.com



Joined: 07 Jul 2018
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My guess is cracked cylinder head. Start with that, pull it off have a head shop check it out. If they find a crack just slap a used head on and hope for the best

Also, I had a honda 25hp that sucked some small gravel and plugged up the cooling channels so I put a relatively high pressure hose directly to the water pickup to clear it out. Shot water 30 feet out of the tell tale but also somehow backflowed water into the motor, through the exhaust I assume. Are you using an unusually high water pressure when flushing the motor?
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digger



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don’t know how a mechanic could determine “frequent” overheat - frankly that is bs. I come from a family of master mechanics and have done troubleshooting, and overhauls, on many different engines, as well as all mechanical troubleshooting and repairs. Overheating can crack a head and impact the water jacket, but lack of oil lube from oil getting watered down can cause scoring or parts to wear. Heads can or will warp if overheating occurs, requiring repairs such as welding cracks between valves, and/or milling to make surfaces flat. Most dealer mechanics or reps will not do rebuilds, they only remove and replace major parts. You would need to find an engine rebuilder who inspects parts, grinds cams and cranks, surfaces heads, grinds valves, bores cylinders, etc. I would hesitate having the dealer mechanics do anything but engine replacement, or component replacements. You can find marine engine rebuilders on eBay, etc that have rebuilt “short” or “long” blocks that can get your engine going again. Also, you might find some full-service engine machine shops that have individuals that are experienced with marine repairs. Good luck with your current dealer interactions.
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TyBoo



Joined: 23 Oct 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Only takes once to overheat, warp & or crack something.
If it's apart should be easy enough to tell & good time to inspect cil. walls etc.
Wink Thumbs Up


I understand that overheat can crack things or distort a head enough to bypass the gasket. I guess I was wondering how the shop reached the point of blaming repetitive overheat without finding something definitive, which he would surely report if it had been found.

I lost a water pump impeller that caused an overheat alarm and shutdown on my old Honda 130. I got to Friday Harbor on the kicker but used the main again for docking based on Les Lampman telling me it would be just fine to do. He said the alarm is triggered at a pretty low temp and that shutdown occurs before enough heat is built up to do real damage. That was with 1999 technology. I am sure the technology of today can protect a motor just as well.

Did the mechanic tear down the topside of the motor and inspect the head and gasket to make his diagnosis? If not, then repetitive overheat is a casual guess at best. If he did find the path taken by the water to the crankcase then he would have reported it also, I imagine. Short of removing the head and inspecting, a leak down test is probably the best way to find a bad gasket or cracked head. Do you know if he did that?

Again, I am running on limited experience here and still willing to learn.

Ironically, the Honda 130 that had the overheat alarm also developed a water leak and filled the crankcase. But that was 15 years after the fact! By then it had enough hours that it was better to replace than repair so I never found out exactly what caused it.

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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm agreeing with Tyboo Mike. I'm assuming the mechanic already pulled the head to make that diagnoses? I had a car one time that warped it's head, but that was after a freeze plug blew and I drove it several miles before realizing it. (Small 4 cylinder engine in a Corolla that had recently been rebuilt...) I've overheated my Merc 115 Outboard a few times when weeds have plugged the intakes, but always shut it down as soon as the overheat warning sounded. Mind you, not more than a few times, but yeah, even in those few times I was concerned more about frying the impellar. (Which didn't look that much worse for the wear when I changed it out earlier this fall.) Anyway, just my backyard mechanic mind says with the difference in compression and water in the oil, the blown head gasket still makes more sense.
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digger



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have them sho you and point out how they come to their conclusion
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just another view--My close friend bought a used 25 with a Honda 150 (I believe about 700 hours) on it. The first time he took it out, it had an overheat alarm, went into limp home mode. They were towed in, and when the local Honda dealer started tearing the engine down, they found extensive corrosion causing obstruction in the water passages.

I would sure want to see exactly what the mechanic found. If it is shot (or not)--you are not going to damage it any more by taking a wrench to it, and completing the teardown.

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Thataway
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cmetzenberg



Joined: 04 Jan 2014
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City/Region: Santa Barbara
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all.
875 bucks latter i am 100% sure the engine is in really bad shape lol. Crying or Very sad Scorn cylinders, rust on lots of stuff and the #4 piston has chips missing from the edges. It would take lots of machining to get this back running. I had another mechanic look at it as the heads were off, he said it's fubar too. Perhaps it's the kelp out here; filters can clog up a lot when you're looking for seabass...i don't know what else it could have been. I take damn good care of my engines so i'm guessing the kelp got them.

I wish i was dripping in money like it was 2014 and i was working back in Africa. I have the cash in the bank to repower the entire boat, but i have the financial sense not to do so. I like putting my money towards things that appreciate. That being said I would like to find the most cost effective solution that gets me back up and running; used engine, shortblock, machine and rebuild, a new 'blem'.

1. used engine.
at a glance on ebay i'm seeing used bf 150s from 4500 to 6500. Lots look pretty rough but i can put my current fairings on them. The hard part here is finding one that is mechanically sound and doing due diligence from a far.

2. longblock/crate engine. I don't know much about this option but i like the idea of replacing the powerhead as the rest of the engine is fine. I need to do research and analyse costs. I'm mechanically savy, wonder if i could do this myself?

3. machine and rebuild. I'm pretty sure this option is out due to the labor rates putting the preliminary quotes at or above the cost of used motors ~7k

4. A brand new blem. I could pick up a new blem tomorrow for 11700 sticker price. That's before I pull the walk in with cash trick at around 10k and say take it or leave it. This option would come with a warranty which is great but the cost puts me off; it's not the financially savvy Conrad thing to do...doesn't mean it isn't the smartest thing to do.

Any advise or resources would be appreciated guys.
Thanks,
-Conrad and his broke ass boat.
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westward



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Brand new blem" for 10K would be my personal choice, for speed of repair and you end up with a brand new engine for not that much more than the used/rebuilt route. I wish you the best of luck with whatever you choose. Would really be curious to know what conditions caused your motor to fail as I run a variant of it myself (BF 135).
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localboy



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
...the #4 piston has chips missing from the edges...


That explains the low compression. Probably gouged the cylinder walls to hell and back and damaged the head. I mean, where would the missing chips go and what caused that? Sucks though.

Personally, I'd be leery of buying a "used" outboard, especially sight unseen. The brand new option, with warranty, seems to best for long term peace of mind. But that comes at a price of course. How long do you plan on keeping the current boat? I can't see all the labor, parts, machining etc of a rebuild being cost effective either. Getting a rebuilt long block? Just how mechanical are you? For me that would be a no go...but your skills, tools, location/shop and confidence may be better than mine. That's some serious mechanical labor and if you run into a problem...

Good luck in whatever you decide. Looks like that GW "gotcha" anyway...but at least you're still here...

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hardee



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 2:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Conrad, I'm not a mechanic so first off, I would find one that I trust, recommended by someone I trusted I guess and then go with his recommendation. For me, the options you are looking at, I would be looking and liking the option for a "scratch and dent" new with a warranty. Seems like that would be a hard to be at offer.

Best in whatever you decide.

I was just looking over the photos from the Delta trip last spring, and remembering the fun, and sharing supper with you and family at the duck club. Hope for a great Thanksgiving for you all.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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thataway



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No boat is an "investment"--except in pleasure. You may or may not break even when you eventually sell the boat.

For 10 K I would go with the "blem". As the boat is now--it is worth at least 10K less than it would be with both running engines..

I agree, it sure seems unusual that you were not getting alarms on the overheat. The several times I had debris or weed of any sort, there was an alarm and I was able to shut down, clean the foot, or back down (first thing to do).

Yes, you should be able to put a new/rebuilt block on the engine--but would it affect the warrantee? The problem with rebuilt is what condition was the block--it is not a new one--a core was taken in--and if you don't have a rebuildable core the price will be more. If you with a re-build, be sure and ask about reliability. I have found The Hull Truth probably has the best experience in numbers with outboards. (often 1000 boaters on line at one time). There are some rebuilders to avoid definitely.
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cmetzenberg



Joined: 04 Jan 2014
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thataway wrote:
No boat is an "investment"--except in pleasure. You may or may not break even when you eventually sell the boat.

For 10 K I would go with the "blem". As the boat is now--it is worth at least 10K less than it would be with both running engines..

I agree, it sure seems unusual that you were not getting alarms on the overheat. The several times I had debris or weed of any sort, there was an alarm and I was able to shut down, clean the foot, or back down (first thing to do).

Yes, you should be able to put a new/rebuilt block on the engine--but would it affect the warrantee? The problem with rebuilt is what condition was the block--it is not a new one--a core was taken in--and if you don't have a rebuildable core the price will be more. If you with a re-build, be sure and ask about reliability. I have found The Hull Truth probably has the best experience in numbers with outboards. (often 1000 boaters on line at one time). There are some rebuilders to avoid definitely.

My engines are way past warranty being 07s. I wouldn't rebuild my block. I'd be looking to purchase, what i believe is refered to as, a long block.
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