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Leaky Hull

 
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bmcminn



Joined: 20 Jul 2019
Posts: 30
City/Region: Bellingham
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1992
C-Dory Model: 19 Angler
Vessel Name: TBD
Photos: bmcminn
PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2019 9:43 pm    Post subject: Leaky Hull Reply with quote

So I've had the boat in the water at the dock for a day. Camping with the tent on. Still got some rain in last night so I ran the bilge pump a little to see if it works and mopped up under the dry deck. No big deal, got it all pretty dry.

Later there was more water and when I tasted, it was salty!! So I dried everything off really well and noticed that some of the water was coming down from where the wall under the gunwhale meets the floor of the cockpit. Both sides have a seam there, but the port one has a slow runnel of water running along it and the going down the side to the bottom of the shallow V. Here are a couple of pictures. I'm a kinda worried that this is a big deal. It's a pretty steady flow that is noticeable within a minute or so of being dried off.

Right now it seems to be collecting from beside the co-pilot chair back to under the gunwhale step. That's where it's dripping down.

I'll be heading back to Bellingham tomorrow and putting the boat on the trailer. Regardless having a beautiful time and will post later tonight re: propane heat and electronics. Plus a couple more questions. Haha.





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MikeR



Joined: 21 Apr 2013
Posts: 437
City/Region: Mill Creek
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2016
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: MikeR
PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2019 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In your second photo we can see what looks like white bilge pump tubing. You mentioned that you ran the bilge pump. Are you sure that all the connections, and the hose itself, are not leaking? Maybe when the pump runs some water is spraying back there then seeping out from that seam. Since the cockpit and bilge sump area will usually collect salt spray over time (and we can see your crabbing photos!) salt residue could lead to the taste that you mentioned, and not necessarily from a hull leak. Just some thoughts.

-Mike

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22' C-Dory Cruiser (2016)
16' C-Dory Angler (1989)
10' C-Dory Row Boat (1995)
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nordicstallion



Joined: 16 Dec 2007
Posts: 364
City/Region: Crescent City
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 19 Angler
Vessel Name: Rylee Rose
Photos: Rylee Rose
PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2019 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That area inside the aft gunnels on my 19 is flotation. Leaking rub rails rivets filled that space over the years. I drilled a small hole just about an inch up from the cockpit deck on each side just forward of the fuel tanks & water flowed out of these spaces for quite awhile. Water can also enter those spaces through the rod holders in the gunnel top. Drill a small hole & see if the water squirts out. Reseal the rubrails too. Good luck
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Vern
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bmcminn



Joined: 20 Jul 2019
Posts: 30
City/Region: Bellingham
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1992
C-Dory Model: 19 Angler
Vessel Name: TBD
Photos: bmcminn
PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2019 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that seems likely. Especially as the boat has been out in the rain recently and it had previously been stored indoors. Still leaking and (maybe) smells a little like epoxy, so, yeah.

Maybe I'll pull them off on a dry day and take a look, use a little silicone, and then next summer pull the rails and do it right.

Current storage is outside and, soon, a blue tarp.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 17129
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2019 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Generally silicone is not a good sealant to use on the boat. Once it is on gel coat, it gets into the pores, and it every difficult to get other compounds to stick in the future.

Are you planning on pulling part of the rub rail? It is put in with pop rivets--best to go back with bolts and washers /nuts on the inside.

I don't believe that your issues are serious.

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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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pat.jack



Joined: 01 Aug 2011
Posts: 98
City/Region: Rochester
State or Province: NY
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-renity
Photos: C-renity
PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2019 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure if I followed the discussion, but if you saw water on-board after a rain, I would concur that a likely cause is the rub rail. As Dr Bob mentions, the rub rail is attached with rivets, and they tend to rot and fail over time. I pulled the rub rail off my 22' cruiser and resealed it. I was amazed at how much water accumulated in my cabin from a few rivets that failed, allowing water to enter from the rub rail. It seemed to work like a gutter, pouring water on board. This seems to be one of the common problems on C-Dories. I recall using silkaflex as a sealant, not silicon. I believe Steve Baum provided me that guidance at the time. Lots of great knowledge from folks on this site. As Dr Bob also mentions, use stainless steel nuts and bolts to reattach the rub rail. Worked out for me.
Jack Howell

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2003 C-Dory 22' Cruiser-sold 3/2019
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
Posts: 1842
City/Region: Leesburg
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SoBELLE
Photos: SoBelle
PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2019 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My boat came with a bead of 5200 along the top and bottom edges of where the rub rail joins the boat. No leaks.
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bmcminn



Joined: 20 Jul 2019
Posts: 30
City/Region: Bellingham
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1992
C-Dory Model: 19 Angler
Vessel Name: TBD
Photos: bmcminn
PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2019 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Bob for reassuring me that it doesn't seem to be a big problem. As the water didn't accumulate through the next day (which was dryer) I think you're right about the rub rails. I am confounded by how to get to the attachments though. I haven't removed the rubber yet, but will at some point. All of the leaking seems to be coming from the stern and the rub rail attachment points there are behind whatever you call the wall below the gunwhale. I can see that it is attached in the cabin with screws, but what about in the cockpit? That part is under the place where the gunwhale rolls over.







How would I go about getting to the backside of the rub rail there? Do I use a rivet or something? SoBelle, is that bead on the place where the metal rail meets the fiberglass or the rubber? That sounds interesting and I'd love to see a photo. Couldn't see anything in your album that was close enough.
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
Posts: 1842
City/Region: Leesburg
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SoBELLE
Photos: SoBelle
PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2019 2:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't have a photo and not near my boat, but the bead is for the joint between the metal part of the rail and the fiberglass side of the hull.

3m stuff in red in this image:

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bmcminn



Joined: 20 Jul 2019
Posts: 30
City/Region: Bellingham
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1992
C-Dory Model: 19 Angler
Vessel Name: TBD
Photos: bmcminn
PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2019 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it, thanks!!!
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 17129
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2019 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rivets inside the hull over the V berth are covered inside by either epoxy, or some sealant--like Bostik (whose sealants C Dory used for some time).

I don't know enough about the aft part of the rub rail fastening to know how they are faced on the inside. But sometimes replacement is done "blindly". I use museum putty to stick a nut on my finger and feel to get it started on a machine screw (two person job). Then I put a socket on the nut once started.

I doubt that there is leaking right at the chine in the cockpit--I suspect water is flowing from some other place--maybe aft.
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