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Swim ladder pulling through platform

 
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Gunslinger1



Joined: 17 Feb 2018
Posts: 13
City/Region: Rolla
State or Province: MO
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2019 11:56 am    Post subject: Swim ladder pulling through platform Reply with quote

HI Everyone,

as you see in the photo the swim ladder is pulling through the platform.

Well.........I don't know how to post the photo.

the swim ladder is bolted to the platform on the back of the boat and there are 2 squares on the top that are wanting to pull through the platform.

I would appreciate how this has been handled in the past or ideas on solutions.

Thank you,
Tim



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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 16999
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2019 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the photo has an Internet address, just post that. Ask administrator (TyBoo or DaNag) for a photo album.

Send me a photo, and I can put it up if necessary.


If it is pulling thru the standard C Dory factory swim platform, I would be worried about core damage in the swim step. Undo the bolts which hold the backing plate on the ladder/platform, and remove it. Then take a look at the core of the platform. It is entirely possible that it there is core water intrusion and failure. That means you will have some serious repair work to do. Perhaps even recording the step. Of course you could always put on a larger SS plate--but that just hides the issue--and kicks the can down the road....

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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 16999
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2019 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the photo of Gunslinger1's swim step.


My off the cuff assessment is that either there was a defect in the manufacture of the swim step, or the ladder has been stressed--like a 400 pounder jumping on it.

There appears to be cracking of the upper laminate--both at the stress load plate and the sides of the swim step. Also there is a small crack inboard and above the outboard plate. This tends to make me suspect that perhaps the laminate was thin on the surface.

Repair:--most likely there is core damage. I would pull the bolts for the ladder. Then asses the nature of the core damage. A moisture meter will probably read high on this surface--(only valid if the boat has not had moisture on the swim step for several days. Even after a heavy dew, a horizontal surface may read high.

You can over drill the holes to assess the nature of the core moisture. It will most likely be wet, and compromised. I don't know if it is plywood or balsa. In either case, I would rebuild it with either Coosa board or marine ply 3/4" thick. You will have to remove the core--this may be done easier from the underside. But considering the cracks on the surface, in this case I would rebuild from the top. Cut out the cored area, feather the side fiberglass. Set in the new core with epoxy Where the bolts go thru, make this solid glass or PVC lumber. cut in bloc or a circle. The other option is to over drill the. holes, and fill with epoxy--and then drill the holes. I would overlay with two layers of 1708 fiberglass cloth (this is 17 oz biaxial roving at+/- 45* axis with 3/4oz epoxy computable mat) and epoxy. I would add put one more layer of 6 Oz cloth to be sure it was well tied over the edges. The non skid on this can be obtained with cabosil thickened gel coat. I don't think it is worth trying to save the old surface--but some might take that route. If so you would have to feather in the edges as you bonded to the side of the step. (You have to do. a little of that with the 1708.). To get good gel coat bond on the step, you should wash the cured and faired surface, with soap and water, then lightly sand with 80 grit. Do a quick pass with a propane torch to "flame harden". Then Gel coat should adhere nicely.

Another option would be to fair the surface. Then use either glass micro beads or ground walnut (or similar) shells set in epoxy. Finally several coats of paint in "Hatteras White"--close enough to match the gel coat in the C Dory. I probably would use the latter approach. Silica sand is a bit more aggressive than I like, but is a possibility some would use.
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Gunslinger1



Joined: 17 Feb 2018
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City/Region: Rolla
State or Province: MO
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2019 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhhhh.......I might need a YouTube video....😳😳😳😳😂😂😂😂😂.....thank you
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
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Photos: SoBelle
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2019 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A third option is just buy an entire new swim step from the manufacturer. You can get it from Wefings for about $550 without the ladder. I believe the ladder is Garelick (it is COTS anyway).

Depending on your "handiness" and patience, a new swim step might be the way to go.

The factory swim step is through bolted for the top bolts and the lower bolts are lag screws. Getting the through bolts in/out is a bit of a pain, but can be done without taking out the fuel tank (at least on an '08 22 cruiser).
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Gunslinger1



Joined: 17 Feb 2018
Posts: 13
City/Region: Rolla
State or Province: MO
PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ssobol wrote:
A third option is just buy an entire new swim step from the manufacturer. You can get it from Wefings for about $550 without the ladder. I believe the ladder is Garelick (it is COTS anyway).

Depending on your "handiness" and patience, a new swim step might be the way to go.

The factory swim step is through bolted for the top bolts and the lower bolts are lag screws. Getting the through bolts in/out is a bit of a pain, but can be done without taking out the fuel tank (at least on an '08 22 cruiser).


Thank you for this info......I have wondered about getting the platform off.

are the bottom bolts in serts? or screwed directly into the glass?
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
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City/Region: Leesburg
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C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SoBELLE
Photos: SoBelle
PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gunslinger1 wrote:
ssobol wrote:
A third option is just buy an entire new swim step from the manufacturer. You can get it from Wefings for about $550 without the ladder. I believe the ladder is Garelick (it is COTS anyway).

Depending on your "handiness" and patience, a new swim step might be the way to go.

The factory swim step is through bolted for the top bolts and the lower bolts are lag screws. Getting the through bolts in/out is a bit of a pain, but can be done without taking out the fuel tank (at least on an '08 22 cruiser).


Thank you for this info......I have wondered about getting the platform off.

are the bottom bolts in serts? or screwed directly into the glass?


The bottom attachments are about 1-1/4" lag screws that go directly into the glass.

There is sealant around the edge of the platform where it meets the hull. This will need to be cut. I don't know if there is any sort of sealant or adhesive that is between the step flange and the hull.

My boat had a single step on the port side. I added a second factory step on the starboard side (IMO this is a great mod). When doing this, I took out one of the top bolts and one of the bottom screws on the existing step so I could see what they were in order to get the same hardware to add the new step.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=SoBelle&id=boat_handle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I moved our step from starboard to port a few yrs ago the caulking/adhesive used by the factory did not "give up" without a fight. 5200? Who knows, but it was a battle getting if off. Pics are posted in our gallery along with what I did to overcome the stuff. IIRC, there is also a thread on it with advice from more experienced members.
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Gunslinger1



Joined: 17 Feb 2018
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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

localboy wrote:
When I moved our step from starboard to port a few yrs ago the caulking/adhesive used by the factory did not "give up" without a fight. 5200? Who knows, but it was a battle getting if off. Pics are posted in our gallery along with what I did to overcome the stuff. IIRC, there is also a thread on it with advice from more experienced members.



Looked at your pics of the repair.........Wow really nice work.
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
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City/Region: Leesburg
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C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SoBELLE
Photos: SoBelle
PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

localboy wrote:
When I moved our step from starboard to port a few yrs ago the caulking/adhesive used by the factory did not "give up" without a fight. 5200? Who knows, but it was a battle getting if off. Pics are posted in our gallery along with what I did to overcome the stuff. IIRC, there is also a thread on it with advice from more experienced members.


O would have tried pulling a wire through the joint to try and cut the sealant.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 16999
City/Region: Pensacola
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C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

localboy wrote:
When I moved our step from starboard to port a few yrs ago the caulking/adhesive used by the factory did not "give up" without a fight. 5200? Who knows, but it was a battle getting if off. Pics are posted in our gallery along with what I did to overcome the stuff. IIRC, there is also a thread on it with advice from more experienced members.


Great thread and job: Here is the link.

If, (probably "all") bolts in the transom are thru a core which is not sealed with epoxy, there should be over drilling, undercutting and thickened epoxy filling, with new holes drilled in the center of the plugs. If you are going to take the swim step off, these precautions should be taken to preserve the transom core. One might argue that "foam" does not need to be protected. The issue is that if moisture gets into any core, freeze thaw cycles will cause some delimitation and structural change no matter what the cored material is.

I checked the swim step and ladder on my 25. The original ladder had been removed, and the holes filled with epoxy. A larger/longer ladder had been placed under the step, and there was about a 3/8" piece of PVC lumber between the ladder and the bolts. There were fender washers each each of the 16 bolts on top . No evidence of stress from the new ladder, but the loadt seems to be spread out more than the stock ladder.
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Gunslinger1



Joined: 17 Feb 2018
Posts: 13
City/Region: Rolla
State or Province: MO
PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[If, (probably "all") bolts in the transom are thru a core which is not sealed with epoxy, there should be over drilling, undercutting and thickened epoxy filling, with new holes drilled in the center of the plugs. If you are going to take the swim step off, these precautions should be taken to preserve the transom core. One might argue that "foam" does not need to be protected. The issue is that if moisture gets into any core, freeze thaw cycles will cause some delimitation and structural change no matter what the cored material is.


Bob.........I know this is correct. I am going to do my best to leave it on the boat for the repair.
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