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DF140 Rectifier Code

 
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Westie



Joined: 08 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 1:31 pm    Post subject: DF140 Rectifier Code Reply with quote

Hi - my starboard 2007 Suzuki DF140 is throwing a 1-1 code which looks to be Rectifier & regulator (over charging) issues.

My battery terminals are clean and the rectifier ground looks ok. I know my batteries are old.

Couple questions:
- could old batteries cause this?
- has anyone replaces the rectifier? Can it be done in the slip?

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True North
2006 Tomcat 255
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Westie



Joined: 08 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Additional info:

With starboard running alone, the starter battery ramps up from 14V to 16.55 and starts to decline, at around 16.4 the alarm sounds.

With port running alone, same starter ramps up to 16.2 and holds

I think the 14V starting point was because I had the engines both running for many 15 minutes so there was a carry over charge.

Do you think that means it has to be starboards rectifier?
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journey on



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, to get the discussion started, here's a few comments. Remember I only owned a couple of Suzuki motorcycles 40 years ago.

First of all, 16.2 VDC is high for a lead-acid battery. As a matter of fact, anything over 15 VDC is a bit high. So one should suspect the regulator, or something that regulates the output voltage of the alternator. Are you sure the motors are feeding batteries directly? Usually the battery bank will hold the alternator output to about 15 VDC max since the alternator is current limited. Try running a wire directly from the motors alternator output to the battery around the switches, etc.

Second, the alternator, regulator and rectifier are kept out of harms way to avoid any contact with water, salt or otherwise. So, I'd bet that you can replace the thing without pulling the boat out of the water. An owners manual would be a good investment.

Note that Journey On's Honda produces 40 amps also and I've only seen 14.5-15 VDC when running. Of course you've got two of them feeding ??? batteries.

Boris
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Westie



Joined: 08 Jun 2014
Posts: 160
City/Region: Bodega Bay
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C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: True North
Photos: Westie
PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Boris.

The readings I gave were directly from the battery terminal. Does that change anything?

Since I'm reading an overcharge, could that mean it could be a ground issue and not a bad rectifier?

I tried to see where the black ground wire connects but I was unable without dismantling the engine and I was not prepared to do that.

And ideas?
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journey on



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, you're getting 16.4 VDC at the battery, which says that nothing is getting into the battery (or accurately, very little.) At 16 VDC those batteries should be boiling fairly well. 16 is more than my battery charger puts out to normalize the batteries.

So try a couple of things, and I'm ballparking it here, but see if there's any water left in the batteries. If you're uncertain about the ground, run a ground wire directly back to the alternator. I assume one can reach it by just taking the cowl off.

Have you asked Suzuki or a dealer what the maximum voltage those alternators will put out? That's only a phone call and would stop a lot of guessing. Or get a service manual, they have troubleshooting procedures there. The engine monitor is reading the high voltage and setting the code, so something's not normal.

Boris
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tsturm



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 11:05 pm    Post subject: Re: DF140 Rectifier Code Reply with quote

[quote="Westie"]Hi - my starboard 2007 Suzuki DF140 is throwing a 1-1 code which looks to be Rectifier & regulator (over charging) issues.

My battery terminals are clean and the rectifier ground looks ok. I know my batteries are old.

Couple questions:
- could old batteries cause this?
-
[/quote

1- could old batteries cause this?

Possibly first place to check (probably not)

2-has anyone replaces the rectifier? Can it be done in the slip

No. Think Magneto, Rotor is under the flywheel along with the stator. Rectifier/ regulator is external but not very accessible.
lots of little pieces will be in the drink. look at a manual or parts break down. Wink Good luck
https://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/bp_AP_AssemblyDetail.asp?ID=73

https://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/bp_AP_AssemblyDetail.asp?ID=74


Last edited by tsturm on Thu Mar 07, 2019 11:22 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Westie



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. Ill run back to the marina and check the battery fluids. I bought the batteries in 2014 so they are near their life span I'm guessing. I think I'll just replace them and go from there.

I'll also put some calls into suzuki dealers.
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Westie



Joined: 08 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update on my issue:

I ordered a new rectifier/regulator and drove out to the slip to attempt to install it. I got the old rectifier off with the exception of a ground wire that was behind the plastics fuse box. It turns out, after reading the manual much closer, this wire can only be removed after a larger disassembly which I was comfortable with. So I reconnected and bolted everything back.

I ran the engine before I left and, to my surprise, it never alarmed out. The voltage at the battery was a steady 15.5V. When I had left the boat previously, I didn't leave the charger on because the rectifier was partly disconnected. So i though maybe the issue will only replicate if the batteries were newly charged (probably around 13-14V), The battery read 12.3V on this day so my thinking was that it would take some time to "overcharge" but it was a steady 15.5 so I wasn't sure...

After I reattached the rectifier, I left the charger on for two daysI ran out today and the starter read ~14V after I turned off shore power. I started the engine and it ran for 30 minutes and never went above 15.5V

I hate electrical issue and especially hate an issue without a root cause!
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journey on



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it doesn't occur again, I would think the the root cause was disconnecting and reconnecting those connectors you screwed with. And I don't feel bad about saying that. It's a common occurrence.

If it happens again, undo and redo the same connections and see what the result is. Also, check the water in the batteries.

Boris
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tsturm



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Westie wrote:
Quick update on my issue:

I ordered a new rectifier/regulator and drove out to the slip to attempt to install it. I got the old rectifier off with the exception of a ground wire that was behind the plastics fuse box. It turns out, after reading the manual much closer, this wire can only be removed after a larger disassembly which I was comfortable with. So I reconnected and bolted everything back.

I ran the engine before I left and, to my surprise, it never alarmed out. The voltage at the battery was a steady 15.5V. When I had left the boat previously, I didn't leave the charger on because the rectifier was partly disconnected. So i though maybe the issue will only replicate if the batteries were newly charged (probably around 13-14V), The battery read 12.3V on this day so my thinking was that it would take some time to "overcharge" but it was a steady 15.5 so I wasn't sure...

After I reattached the rectifier, I left the charger on for two daysI ran out today and the starter read ~14V after I turned off shore power. I started the engine and it ran for 30 minutes and never went above 15.5V

I hate electrical issue and especially hate an issue without a root cause!


If 15.5v doesn't taper off to 14-14.5v after a while you are going to boil your battery's. How many amps @ 15.5v? Wink
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Westie



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greatly appreciate the input guys!

My batteries are sealed so there is no water lever to check as far as I know.

It seemed like the voltage was decreasing but only after 15+ min. I didn't check amps. What range should I look for?
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Westie



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2019 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update #2

I ran out today and it gave me the 1-1 code. I think that when I tested it before, I didn't rev the engine enough. It took about 10 minutes at high RPM. The voltage was 18.5V a few minutes after I shut down the engine so it was getting too much juice.

The only issue with replacing the rectifier in the slip is one ground wire that goes behind the parts holder. This is what causes the major disassembly.

Has anyone tried to cut the ground on the original rectifier and link it to the replacement's ground?

I was thinking of crimping them together. There seems to be plenty of room. Any thighs on this work around?

I know its not ideal but could get me through the salmon season.
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