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Restoration of a 1999 C-Dory 22 Cruiser
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pcg



Joined: 31 Aug 2018
Posts: 405
City/Region: Sherwood
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 1999
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Quest
Photos: pcg
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thataway wrote:
...Bondo has no place on a boat; much of this is poor adhesion often to the old glass...
I agree completely. I’ve never been a bondo fan.

I’m wondering what boats have this and why. My boat is a 1999 and I’ve noticed that Sunbeam (2002) has bondo over the keel as well.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album2355&id=9_Forward_with_cleats_epoxied_in_place&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Does anyone know what the purpose of the bondo was?
I’ve been puzzling over this and I’ve read of a water leakage problem in some C-Dorys that was caused by the brass keel strip screws penetrating the hull. Is the bondo an attempt to solve that? Maybe someone at the factory thought the screws shouldn’t be shortened so that area needed to be thickened, and dumping some bondo there was cheaper than laying up more glass?

This is all my speculation of course, but the bondo is over the keel area and it appears to extend from the tip of the bow (I haven’t removed all the foam to verify this) all the way to where the brass keel strip ends. In my boat the bondo stops a little more than a third of the way back from the forward end of the toilet storage area.

Is this where the moisture under the foam in my boat came from, through brass keel strip screw holes in the hull, eventually traveling under and through the bondo?
I’m wondering if I should grind/chisel/peel away all of the bondo over the keel and see if there are screws penetrating the hull. If so, then remove them, fill the holes, thicken the area with some epoxy filler and fiberglass mat, then remount the brass keel strip, being certain that the screws don’t come close to penetrating the hull.

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Paul
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pcg



Joined: 31 Aug 2018
Posts: 405
City/Region: Sherwood
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 1999
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Quest
Photos: pcg
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pcg wrote:
... My immediate concern for aluminum tanks is corrosion... I need to think this through.

I do have Nigel Calder's book on boat maintenance and have read his criteria for proper design of aluminum fuel tanks. Thank you to Bob (Thataway) for steering me to the book and Santa for knowing what I wanted.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As long as the aluminum fuel tanks are not held against saturated salt water foam, they will last many years. (assuming appropriate alloys) There are a number of salt water resistant aluminum alloy; 5052 has many excellent properties for boat building. 6061 and 6963 are also used frequently in boat construction. Many commercial boats are left "raw"--uncoated and do very well.

The Aluminum tank ideally should be washed, etched, and then epoxy (coal tar) coated. It should be laid on fiberglass or plastic strips which will allow any water to run freely clear from under the tank. 5200 is often used to "adhere" the tank to the plastic strips--and the strips to the fiberglass hull. Never use a "rubber" which has carbon in it to either "protect" the tank from chafe, or hold it in place. There are silicon "rubbers" which will do far better. The boats originally had :"cleats" screwed into the deck to hold the tank in place. By 2006 the factory had finally woken up to the better method of glassing strips in place.

I would remove the Bondo--then lay in layers of glass mat to fill the "keel" void--and make this water tight. Polyester or vinyl ester resin should be fine in this area. You don't really need the structural strength of roving or cloth. You only need the thickness. You could use polyester filler, but this often suffers the fate of "Bondo"...eventually. There may be some flexing in this area, and that is why I would suggest the mat. When you re-mount the strip--you can use 5200, instead of the ubiquitous sealants C Dory used during this time.

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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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starcrafttom



Joined: 07 Nov 2003
Posts: 7878
City/Region: marysville
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1984
C-Dory Model: 27 Cruiser
Vessel Name: to be decided later
Photos: Susan E
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
It only really works (as far as improving the boat trim) if you move the tanks forward and leave the original tank space empty.


i was think more like light stuff. Crab pots, fishing gear. fenders, chairs. etc. Lots of stuff that used to put on top of the cabin. dinghy motor?

Aluminum tanks>> I have the original tanks in my 84 27ft cdory. Still going strong.

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Thomas J Elliott
http://tomsfishinggear.blogspot.com/
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