Kyuquot Sound adventure

[Marco Flamingo]

I just finished my "sort of" circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. Kyuquot Sound was the last part of the west coast of the island that I hadn't been to.

We launched at Fair Harbour to spend 10 days on Kyuquot, Checleset Bay, and north to the Brooks Peninsula. The Forest Service road in from the paved highway is sometimes called "gravel," but the term "gravel road" actually means something and the road to Fair Harbour doesn't meet that definition in many areas. More accurately, it may have "once been a gravel road" or it is "partly a gravel road," but fairly large sections are realistically what is called an "improved dirt road." Several sections were undergoing repair/modifications and delays were standard. Figure more than two hours for the 42 mile drive in. Several sections are one lane with turnouts.

Fair Harbour is essentially a trailer that serves as the harbormaster's office, store, and fuel station. There is a mosquito ridden camping area that is mostly used for people parking boat trailers. That is the "secure" parking area. Ask in the store and you will be told that all other parking is reserved. Ask a local and you will be told that you can park wherever you want. The choice is yours.

I had originally intended to take my two 6 gallon deck tanks in addition to my 23 gallon built-in. Then I read in the Don Douglass book that fuel was available at Kyuquot, so I left them behind. I didn't double check availability and, sure enough, Kyuquot hasn't had fuel for over 10 years. Our trips to the outlying areas in Checleset Bay were at hull speed with one eye always on the fuel gauge. As it turned out, it didn't matter that much because the upper reaches of the Malksope and Ououkinish Inlets were shrouded in smoke from the 60+ forest fires burning on Vancouver Island. We stayed mainly out in the bay around the Acous Peninsula and the Bunsby Islands.

With our sightseeing choices limited, we started fishing. I found a lodge that would process our catch and I could "run a tab" and simply pick up everything sealed and frozen on the last day. As it turned out, the lodge had an open day when guests had just left but the new guests weren't arriving for a day. We spent one night at the lodge with hot showers and meals with the guides and the owner's family.

Fishing was hot and cold. One day I had my limit of chinook (2), coho (2), rockfish (3) and ling (2). The next day we targeted salmon and got skunked. We still got plenty of fish and have no complaints about the fishing. Guides were bringing in nice halibut, but they were catching them 12 miles offshore. No thanks, not in a 16' boat with no kicker.

Kyuquot definitely has the most remote feeling of any of the west coast sounds. Part of that is probably because of the new fishing closures. The fishing boats (and not that many of them) are concentrated around Walters Cove, which remains open. With fishing closed in much of Checleset Bay and the inlets, there was no traffic of any kind. It is supposed to be a kayaker's paradise and I can see why. But we didn't see another boat, not even a kayak, for three days around the Acous Peninsula.

The numbers are 297 statute miles traveled in 56 hours for an average speed of 4.4 knots. Lots of miles covered at hull speed and below while trolling. Fuel was 5.24 miles per gallon. Because fuel was only available at Fair Harbour, leaving the fishing grounds to refuel meant burning 3 gallons to Fair Harbour and 3 gallons to get back out (I should have set my fuel monitor system to liters and saved myself some math at the fuel dock). Fuel was $1.49 per liter.

10 days for two in a CD 16 was plenty, but now that I've been back for two days, had a shave, a shower, and a cold beer, I'm ready to go back. Pictures are in my photo album.

Mark

[colbysmith]

Great pictures Mark. Thanks for sharing. Looks like an interesting place. Colby

[Ron on Meander]

Mark,
As always I'm so impressed by the places you choose to visit in your 16! I really appreciate the commentary with the pictures. Its great.
Cheers
Ron

[AstoriaDave]

Great report, superb photos. That CD 16 is the perfect vessel for those small anchorages and off the beach lunch stops. You guys know how to do it. Very surprised you did not see lots of sea kayakers. Very popular for kayaks.

Amongst sea kayakers, the road to Fair Harbour is known as a vehicle beater ... and that is for passenger vehicles sans trailers. Definitely out there.

No surprise Kyuquot was short on services.

[Sea Wolf]

Mark- Beautiful photos. The following one could be a photo contest winner!



Thanks!

Joe.

[Marco Flamingo]

[hardee]

Mark, Nice write up and great photos. You do use that 16 to it's full potential, and some ingenuity too -- the air tank wash down. Good job. I always like to hear about Vancouver Island, so thanks for sharing.

Harvey
SleepyC