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designbug



Joined: 02 Sep 2007
Posts: 61
City/Region: Annapolis
State or Province: MD
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Bella II
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 1:17 pm    Post subject: CD25 Cockpit Steps Reply with quote

Hi All,

I have a 2007 CD25 and I need to replace the cockpit steps. I called the factory today and they said they would give me a call back if they can help. Do any of you have any other suggestions?

Thanks, Dick
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you talking about the boxes which are on the forward end of the cockpit on both sides--which have the fuel fill hose going thru them? (under the inspection plate?

If so--what is wrong with the "step boxes" you have? It probably is easier to repair the fiberglass boxes than to put in new ones....I believe that the new boats are different.

If you just want steps--a number of people have used portable steps, which can be moved from side to side.

Here is one solution.

Here is one solution--this is on a 16, but I have seen similar steps used on 22 and 25 foot C Dorys.

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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
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Home port: Pensacola FL
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designbug



Joined: 02 Sep 2007
Posts: 61
City/Region: Annapolis
State or Province: MD
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Bella II
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Bob,

Thanks for responding. I am talking about the boxes which are on the forward end of the cockpit on both sides.

I keep the boat in the water year round and the boxes are showing wear. One of them separated from the side so I removed it and the balsa core inside the box (step) is almost completely rotted out - the other one is not far behind. Do you think these could be repaired?

Thanks, Dick
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes. Unfortunately these were just put in place with some sealant, and not properly tabbed in as they should have been. Of course if they are tabbed in with fiberglass, it the tank or hose has to be removed, then the tabbing would be cut.

I would grind any mat off the back, and build a new core, with any material--from foam, plywood or balsa--doesn't really make any difference here. Plywood is available, and I would seal it with epoxy and put a layer of cloth on the back, seal the edges and the access port with epoxy. It will last the lifetime of the boat then.

The next question is how to put it back in place. I probably would use some very narrow tabbing, with 6oz glass and epoxy, and paint the step with something like KiwiGrip. One of the bed liners would also be an option. You could use "Hatteras White" paint with some micro beads mixed in. Lots of options at this point.
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4656
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ours jut started to pull away as the sealant is finally giving out. I just noticed it this week when I washed the boat of all it's PNW winter "green". I'm looking at them this weekend....
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

localboy wrote:
Ours jut started to pull away as the sealant is finally giving out. I just noticed it this week when I washed the boat of all it's PNW winter "green". I'm looking at them this weekend....


Probably a good idea to separate them now, do what is necessary to prevent water intrusion into the core (epoxy core--pull the inspection plate--and re-install, with water-resistant precautions.
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South of Heaven



Joined: 15 Aug 2015
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City/Region: Sharon
State or Province: MA
Photos: Blue Water
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Dick. I had that exact same problem on my 2007 25. Are you sure the entire step is rotted? On mine it was just like 2 or 3 inches around the perimeter. I just dug out all the rotted stuff and filled it with epoxy to the edges. It came out pretty good.

I also had some rot around the cockpit sole center round hatch. I did the same thing for that rot. However it wasn't easy taking out the cockpit sole. It's a 2 man job because the sole is HEAVY. It's not a bad idea to check it though. Especially since you already had rot in the steps. Another benefit to removing the sole is that you can examine the fuel tank (top/sides only).

Good luck! I posted a thread on this last year I think. I think it's pitiful that the factory didn't seal the steps properly. It would've taken them an extra 10 minutes to do it correctly. FRUSTRATING.

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<><><> Jason <><><>

2005 Silverton 35 Motoryacht (Twin 385 Crusaders) (SOLD 6/20)

2000 Camano 31 Troll (Volvo TAMD41p) (SOLD 2/19)

2007 C Dory 25' Cruiser (200 hp Suzuki, sold 7/17)

2003 C Dory 19' Angler (80 hp Yamaha, sold 7/16)

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Marco Flamingo



Joined: 09 Jul 2015
Posts: 1154
City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 16 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Limpet
Photos: Limpet
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought two folding steps similar to these, but never used them.

http://www.lfsmarineoutdoor.com/sea-dog-stainless-steel-folding-step.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg7_L2JXY2gIVgsJkCh3LuQ7bEAQYBSABEgLNY_D_BwE

They would require a substantial backing plate on the fiberglass panel, plus, they seemed a little "fiddley." If I was on the dock and hadn't flipped them down, then reaching in to do that would be approximately the same contortion as just performing a barrel roll into the cockpit. Even when extended, it requires a careful and exacting placement of the foot. They may work better on a different model C Dory. I was thinking of taking them to Friday Harbor.

What I ended up using was a small plastic folding step stool. It is also used as part of my "Enclosed Head," as shown in my photos. I still have to remember to set it up before climbing out on to the dock, but it folds flat and stows away easily, serves several functions, is cheap, can't bang or scratch things, requires no drilling, etc. They are available in several heights and sizes.

Mark
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designbug



Joined: 02 Sep 2007
Posts: 61
City/Region: Annapolis
State or Province: MD
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Bella II
PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all your suggestions. I'll let you know what happens.
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4656
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thataway wrote:
localboy wrote:
Ours jut started to pull away as the sealant is finally giving out. I just noticed it this week when I washed the boat of all it's PNW winter "green". I'm looking at them this weekend....


Probably a good idea to separate them now, do what is necessary to prevent water intrusion into the core (epoxy core--pull the inspection plate--and re-install, with water-resistant precautions.


Recommendation for re-bedding them? I was thinking 3M 4000 since it's more UV stable than the 4200.
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Salmon Fisher



Joined: 07 Aug 2009
Posts: 799
City/Region: Arlington
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Kim Christine
Photos: Kim Christine
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have the steps that Dr. Bob referenced with a picture. We have the wood treads.
We also had them on the 22.
They work great and are very sturdy.

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Patrick and Kim Walker

2004 25 Cruiser-Present

2000 22 Cruiser 2009-2014 (Sold)
2006 25 Cruiser 2014-2019 (Sold)
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Honey, this REALLY will be my last boat, honest!
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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
Posts: 3593
City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I repaired the cockpit steps a few years age. Here's the link: Cockpit Recaulk.

The steps needed to be rebuilt, recaulked and refastened, which I did. Pictures.

Boris
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4656
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2018 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I removed both, routed out the bad balsa and filled with West Systems epoxy. (Man that stuff is expensive!) I even routed out the access hatches to back-fill even though they were dry. I'm letting the epoxy dry on the edges before I tackle that.

The port side was worse than starboard for some reason. The bottoms and port-side forward edge had pretty much rotted about 1/2" deep. All the other edges were still nice, dry white balsa so I just painted on epoxy to seal them off.

Whatever sealant the factory used in 2007 was crap. Everything came apart way too easily. I'm re-bedding them with 3M 4000.

Pics in our album. [/b]
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4656
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All installed with 3M 4000. I also removed the access ports above the tank sender and bilge pump..and yep, exposed balsa. Rolling Eyes So, repeat of the procedure; router out balsa about 3/8" deep, drill out screw holes, fill all with thickened West Systems epoxy.

Once I install the new hatches the bilge/cockpit sole etc should be dry and rot proof now. Cool

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album2829&id=steps11&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good, but now you have the nice step seal, and the grungy caulk (like I have) all around the fuel tank hatch! Options? remove all of the caulk and replace. Or Clean up the top, maybe cut out about 1/3 of it, and put in 4000? Also Locktite has a similar compound (which I am trying out--and seems good): Loctite PL Marine Fast Cure Adhesive Sealant,
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