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C-Dory 25 Cockpit Recaulk

 
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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
Posts: 3593
City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 2:22 pm    Post subject: C-Dory 25 Cockpit Recaulk Reply with quote

C-Dory 25 Cockpit Step Repair

Well, here's the latest Boris' Folly. I hope it'll help or at the very least, serve as a lesson. Remember every C-Dory 25 has those. If you've kept your seams tidy, this missive is not for you.

Each C-Dory 25 has 2 ea cockpit steps, one on each side at the front. Actually, I think these were put there to cover up the hole they had to cut in the cockpit floor to install the tank fill hoses. When Journey On was new, the seams between the steps and the cockpit floor leaked and the factory re-caulked them (among other things.) Over the years, those seams cracked and the caulking around the tank access hatch (that plate that covers the whole cockpit floor,) appeared to be lifting and checking. So as one of my spring tasks, I resolved to fix both the steps and the tank cover caulking. Herein lies my tale.

First, I removed the steps. C-Dory must have had a large interest in Bostic caulking, since the steps are held on via a aluminum angle, as shown, using about 8 sheet metal screws and copious amounts of caulking. A heat gun and putty knife with a couple of screwdrivers removed the step.Here's the hole the step covers. Note the towel, referenced later and important.



And here is the cover removed, with the aluminum bracket, the top screws still in:



I noticed that water had leaked between the step and cockpit floor, softening the steps end-grain balsa, as shown below.



I dug the soft balsa out and removed as much of the caulking as I could. Apparently there is a difference between the caulking they used to fill the seams and the caulking they used to glue the steps on. I could remove the former, and bent my pick on the latter. Note that in the picture, there's a lot of caulking left on the inside of the steps; looks messy but it will not show.. I used 3M 5200 to fill the voids. It was cheaper than the epoxy at Home Depot. I did use epoxy to seal the edges where the balsa was still sound, since it bonds better when there's only a thin layer of sealant.



Then I went to work on the tank cover seam. As you can see, the caulking is cracked and looks like it's giving up.



I removed the seam at the front of the cockpit, and my message is: live with the checking, that caulking is a good ½ inch thick and only the surface looks bad. I used 3M 4000 to reseal what I removed. Left the rest alone.

So now I had to remount the steps. Since I felt the seams cracked because the screws and bond allowed flexing, I removed the old caulking as best as I could and replaced the screws with ¼ bolts. As shown, I stuck the bolts from the backside and epoxy-ed the heads in place. It's a bear to put the steps on, put the screws in and then try to reach through and around to put the nuts on.



Also as you're working there, put a towel into the cutout so screws and tools don't fall in. As I gave the last nut on the port side the last turn, the socket fell of the ratchet and went down past the tank. Son-of-a-gun. Finally fished it out; don't forget the towel. Those steps looked good bolted in and felt solid.

Finally finished the job by re-caulking. Since the steps probably would flex somewhat when we stepped on them, I wanted to use a strong caulking, but provide something that was flexable: 3M 4200. This is the job finished:



No more water leaking through the joints and down on the tank, halleluiah.

A few comments. In removing the old caulk, I used a product called Marine Formula by Debond to soften the caulk. It works on silicone, 5200 and whatever that Bostik is called. Not free but it gets the stuff off without attacking the gelcoat. Smells of oranges. I took off as much as I could with the heat gun and putty knife then finished with the Debond.

Also, I looked at the O-rings in the round hatches. They were gone. The replacement was a 4170-161, (70 A Durometer Black Nitrile, 5 1/2” ID, 3/32” cross section), according to the local supplier. Or you could order them from Tempress, the OEM supplier. I hope I got better ones than came with the hatch.

Boris
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boris,
Very nice job and very detailed and informative instructions. My 2003 was different, since there was only one fuel hose, and it was near he middle of the cockpit. My friend has a 2004 and its also different. The 2007 looks very similar-(
-but I haven't really "dug" into it yet Smile. My caulking looks bad, but does not leak (so it seems)--yet. I don't know if there is an aluminum L bracket as yours has or not. Your solution is very good. The reconstruction, or even re-bedding is down the list of my projects. I also think that the 3 M 4000 will give the best cosmetic affect. No telling why they used "Bostik", but they sure did!

If there is not an aluminum bracket, I would suggest wrapping a tab around the step into the inner liner of the cockpit and securing that with epoxy. Then do the sealant with 4000.

On my visit to Home Depot yesterday one of the first things I bought was the "DeBond"--I know I'll be using it a number of places!

_________________
Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4656
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is on "the list". I still have not done anything and we are leaving for a much needed vacation tonight. So, next week...

From looking at the pics, I think I'll be able to use bolts but the other way; nuts/washers between hull and liner. Perhaps...

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"We can go over there...behind the 'little one'....."
Wife to her husband pointing @ us...from the bow of their 50-footer; Prideaux Haven 2013
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
Posts: 3358
City/Region: SW Michigan
State or Province: MI
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SoBELLE
Photos: SoBelle
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Debond is fine at softening/dissolving 3M 5200 or 4200. The one problem is that you end up with little bits of adhesive all over the place. As the Debond evaporates the pieces start sticking to things. So you need to clean them up regularly as you go. They get everywhere.

P.S. Maybe you already know this, but when gluing stuff back together with 3M products don't be using the blue paper "shop towels". You'll get little bits of blue stuck in the adhesive. At least I did.
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