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Snider
Joined: 21 Jun 2013 Posts: 204 City/Region: Charleston
State or Province: SC
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Kestrel Dawn
Photos: Kestrel Dawn
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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 7:37 pm Post subject: Possible Areas for Hull Water Entry |
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As my “new” Boat (2002) has been in the shop for the last three weeks I’ve been devouring the threads here. I’ve come across some other 22’s of my similar vintage that have had some wet core or hull defects. I’m hoping the boat would have had these problems already, seems it’s made it this far. I only had it one day before putting it in the shop and didn’t appreciate any cracks or soft spots then, or when I inspected it prior to purchase. I’d like to prevent any water intrusion in the future as we plan on owning her for a long time. Are there any known areas where I should remove fittings, undercut the core and epoxy seal the hole before reinstalling the hardware? I’m basically trying to do some preventive maintenance.
I plan on removing the transducer and filling the holes, then mount it to some starboard. Is it worth doing the same with the drain hole in the aft cockpit (remove, epoxy, reinstall)? I’ll also look at how the fuel tanks and batteries are held down. I’ve also read of some having water intrusion under the v-berth. I don’t currently have any access plates there, should I place one for inspection? I’m not looking to do this all at once, but a little as I go.
Thanks ahead of time _________________ Brandon
22ft Cruiser
Charleston SC |
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RichardM
Joined: 28 Mar 2012 Posts: 96 City/Region: Akron
State or Province: OH
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Pangur Ban
Photos: Pangur Ban
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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 9:05 pm Post subject: |
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You'll find good advice on this subject on this website.
As a starter, the hole around the transom drain should have been properly epoxied at the factory. If you inspect it closely you may not need to do anything there.
While hardware is off, use a nail or small tool to feel the core in any spot where core exists. You'll easily see if it is wet.. If so you should dig it out, dry well, fill the void with thickened epoxy and re-drill a larger hole, fill that and drill the mounting hole.
It's a good idea to sit inside and inspect all over for leaks while a friend hoses the boat down. Of course if hardware is off you should tape over any holes first. Clear "weatherstrip tape" is one product you might use for that; it doesn't leave a residue.
You'll get lots of good suggestions from other owners too. |
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rbfconstruction
Joined: 19 Sep 2017 Posts: 126 City/Region: huntington beach
State or Province: CA
Photos: Angler Management
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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 10:43 pm Post subject: possible areas for hull water entry |
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My 2006 arrived with about 5 gallons of water in the v berth. I sealed off the anchor locker drain completely, the metal section in the front, and added foam (it had very little to none in the starboard side). I completely let it dry out.
Its back... Dark brown in color. Had the boat on the water for 4 days in San Diego last week to find another gallon. Dried it out. After 5 hours out today, in LB and around I see about a dixie cup full.
DARN!!!! (to keep it nice on this site)
I am ready to completely seal off the old wash down cage on the bottom of the boat, and the thru hole pump. It appears to go to a wash down quick connect. (non working) Where else could it possibly entering from?
My advice to all is know what you are buying with pictures of eeeeevvvvveeeeerrryyyyyy thing first. |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 20827 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:10 pm Post subject: |
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Brandon,
You are off to a good start. I have not owned a boat where the transom drain tube was properly epoxy sealed. It may have been done on some boats.
Definitely do the transducer as planed. If the boat has not had the lazarette hatches replaced with the Imtra ones, do that. You will clean the core, and put the new hatch screws into epoxy plugs.
Go thru the entire boat looking for leaks. Probably not necessary to pull all of the deck hardware unless there is a leak. I have pulled the foreword hatch on 3/4 of the boats I have owned, and had to do the epoxy, seal on these--two the cut out was too big and I had to add some glass after the epoxy seal.
I have not had any under the bunk/porti potty platform water issues. However, I sealed the anchor locker in the current boat, since there was a potential there.
Not sure about your 2002, but check to see how the hold down for the fuel tanks are secured. On my 2006, there were cleats glassed to the floors, and screws put into these cleats, so there was no core penetrations...
Also check the aft cabin bulkhead. Where is your bilge pump? Add a second one. One all of the way aft for when you are under way. One just aft or forward of the aft cabin bulkhead, for when the boat is left in the water or in trailering position. _________________ Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL |
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Snider
Joined: 21 Jun 2013 Posts: 204 City/Region: Charleston
State or Province: SC
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Kestrel Dawn
Photos: Kestrel Dawn
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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 7:33 am Post subject: Thanks |
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Good point about the lazarette hatches, that’s something that will need addressing. I have a bildge pump to starboard in a well at the aft cabin bulkhead. It's wired to a switch last the helm (auto/man/off). I figured I would add one aft at the cockpit drain and wire it directly to the house battery, plus add a manual bilge pump also. My 2 batteries are mounted between the fuel tanks, I’d like to get them elevated a little.
When you guys talk about sealing the anchor locker do you mean it’s not waterproof and you seal the seams? Or something else? |
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Snider
Joined: 21 Jun 2013 Posts: 204 City/Region: Charleston
State or Province: SC
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Kestrel Dawn
Photos: Kestrel Dawn
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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 7:59 am Post subject: Re: possible areas for hull water entry |
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Sounds like an inspection hatch in the V is a good idea, hopefully I don't find anything and can make storage out of it. Sorry to hear about your leak. I don't have any thru hulls below the waterline.
rbfconstruction wrote: | My 2006 arrived with about 5 gallons of water in the v berth. I sealed off the anchor locker drain completely, the metal section in the front, and added foam (it had very little to none in the starboard side). I completely let it dry out.
Its back... Dark brown in color. Had the boat on the water for 4 days in San Diego last week to find another gallon. Dried it out. After 5 hours out today, in LB and around I see about a dixie cup full.
DARN!!!! (to keep it nice on this site)
I am ready to completely seal off the old wash down cage on the bottom of the boat, and the thru hole pump. It appears to go to a wash down quick connect. (non working) Where else could it possibly entering from?
My advice to all is know what you are buying with pictures of eeeeevvvvveeeeerrryyyyyy thing first. |
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rbfconstruction
Joined: 19 Sep 2017 Posts: 126 City/Region: huntington beach
State or Province: CA
Photos: Angler Management
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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 10:08 am Post subject: possible areas for hull water entry |
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As far as the anchor locker, I tested mine from the exit (outside the boat) with a flexible tube and a funnel, to find water going into the v berth. There are ways to fix the path (i have heard) by adding a new tube and re sealing it.
I was so frustrated I just filled the thing and comp[letely sealed it off. My logic was that very very little water would ever be in the locker. Heck, the hole in the locker bottom was an inch too high anyways.
Does anyone else have an idea about my water intrusion into the v berth?
The fact that it is brown makes me think it is wooden core related.
Richard
Where would I put the inspection hole or holes? |
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ssobol
Joined: 27 Oct 2012 Posts: 3381 City/Region: SW Michigan
State or Province: MI
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SoBELLE
Photos: SoBelle
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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 10:31 am Post subject: |
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I found that the transom drain and the anchor locker drains on my '07 boat were too high.
The factory transom plug allowed more than an inch of water to sit in the transom well even with the plug was out. I added a new transom drain plug as low as I could.
The drain hole for my anchor locker was also too high and allowed water to stagnate there. I added a new drain hole and tube that actually hits the bottom of the locker. |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 20827 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 11:16 am Post subject: |
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It is not unusual to find the drain hole too high in the anchor locker, and in many cases to find that the anchor locker is not sealed off from the area under the V berth. The anchor locker is basically the hull on both sides. Aft of it is the short anchor locker bulkhead and then the one piece molded area which is the v berth and the porti potty platform.
There is no cored hull forward of the helm console in most boats--the core stops about where the porti potty platform begins. The balsa is to give strength and rigidity in the after flatter sections of the hull. There are some photos in various albums of the boat construction, where you can see where the core (may be foam in some newer boats stops. Also the tabbed in V Bert and Porti Potty platforms do give some rigidity to the hull in this area. (I have seen boats which have been abused and this tabbing damaged by pounding.)
In my current 22, there was no drain for the anchor locker. It was open to the space between the hull and under the V berth. I filled the area in the bottom of the locker with fiberglass mat and epoxy to build it up slightly. Then I used a couple of layers of 6 oz cloth to build a smooth platform, which sloped slightly to port. I drilled the hole for the platform from the inside of the boat, so that it was at the new bottom of the locker.
Richard--have you pulled the screws which hold the brass strip into the glass in the bow? This is often an area of water intrusion. |
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rbfconstruction
Joined: 19 Sep 2017 Posts: 126 City/Region: huntington beach
State or Province: CA
Photos: Angler Management
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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 1:42 pm Post subject: |
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Yes. I pulled them, they were dry but I still added the sealant and put them back . I also sealed he perimeter of the strip . I am 100 percent confused as I see no way for water intrusion possible and it definitely is not residual thx. Richard |
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nordicstallion
Joined: 16 Dec 2007 Posts: 380 City/Region: Crescent City
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 19 Angler
Vessel Name: Rylee Rose
Photos: Rylee Rose
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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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Richard. What is the LB? The comment about dark brown water makes me think it’s been sitting around somewhere & slowly percolating back into the v berth storage compartment. When I had my water in the berth problem I noticed some dampness under the foam flotation aft of the v storage.possibly seeped in from the v berth when it was sitting for who knows how long with 15 to 30 gallons. The previous owner was obviously baffled & just chose to ignore it since there were obvious numerous high water marks & floating life jackets in there.May not be a new leak but water slowly seeping back in once you drained the storage locker. Again...”dark brown water”I think could be a clue!! Keep us posted & good luck! |
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rbfconstruction
Joined: 19 Sep 2017 Posts: 126 City/Region: huntington beach
State or Province: CA
Photos: Angler Management
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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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I really had hoped it was residual water sealing in but cannot understand the amounts and frequency. I pulled the one plug about a month or longer ago when I saw very little foam to find moister inside. I do notice it seeps in about 6 incessant up the v berth side as well as the bottom. I agree the dark brown tells me that too. Sooo stumped. The LB area was Long Beach. I went out around the drilling rigs and got a few big bass. Can water get in along the rub rail under the windows? This is driving me crazy. Thx. Richard. Sorry to keep beating a dead horse but no correct method yet so trying to help myself and the rest of u for any current or future alike problems |
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nordicstallion
Joined: 16 Dec 2007 Posts: 380 City/Region: Crescent City
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 19 Angler
Vessel Name: Rylee Rose
Photos: Rylee Rose
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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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In the v berth area you can see the bumps where the rub rail rivets were covered I assume for aesthetic reasons but your right, water can come in wherever they weren’t sealed & there was no reason to cover what can’t be seen or are not accessible as are the ones under the windows & in the aft flotation compartments. Those are another place water collects but can’t be seen. The rivets rust & leak. I drilled a small hole near the deck just forward of the fuel tanks and was amazed how much water had collected in aft flotation & had no way out. There was a thread about a year ago of a 19 with a 6 or 8” list to starboard. He drilled a hole & the water gushed out. No more starboard list. Don’t know where it would end up leaking under the windows. There are two more places I found trapped water from leaking rubrail rivets. The space aft of the battery compartments that have no internal access so those are rivets not sealed. Ifoud that when I drilled a screw hole on the side wall of the splash well for transducer wires. You guessed it I’m sure.... water came squirting out!! Good luck in your search my friend! |
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