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LED spot light on bow rail
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Rock-C



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2018 7:23 pm    Post subject: LED spot light on bow rail Reply with quote

I would like to mount a LED spot light on the bow rail & run the wiring through the railing. Any tips on making the transition from the rail into the v-birth area ? I'm concerned about sealing the deck under the rail plate.
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thataway



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2018 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done this on other boats: welded a SS plate across the top of the railing. Run the wiring inside the tubing to the point where it reaches the "down leg". There will not be any hole into the bottom of the bow railing into this down leg, so you have to grind this open, and run the wire thru this. Then the plate at the bottom of the "down leg, has to be drilled out, and then a hole thru the deck (as well as the bolt holes, bored slightly oversize, then epoxy sealed, and rewedded.

To do this properly you will have to take the railing off the boat, and put a pull wire thru the various holes, and then remount the railing. I would use 4000 as a sealant. If sealed properly--and if you plug the hole you ground into the railing, with J B weld, and silicone sealant where the wire first goes into the railing, and silicone where it comes into the inside of the V berth area, there should be no leaks. This is one place where I believe silicone sealant can be of great value. I would be sure the wires are tinned, marine grade AWG and in duplex vinyl jackets.

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smckean (Tosca)



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Given the low power usage of LEDs, does anyone know if it is practical to mount a local battery powered spot light with some sort of remote on/off. I suppose the problem would be the power for whatever small motor would be required to maneuver the spotlight (if anyone even makes such equipment).

On my boat I rarely need a spotlight, so the number of uses would be small, but I'd sure like to have it when I want it. I wouldn't use it enough to justify running wires and all.
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ssobol



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still have to run wires for the remote so you aren't avoiding anything. Mostly I use the spot light to tell if the anchor is dragging when anchored in the dark. Point it at some landmark and you can use it to see if you drift by switching on the light and seeing if the landmark is still in the beam.
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thataway



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

smckean (Tosca) wrote:
Given the low power usage of LEDs, does anyone know if it is practical to mount a local battery powered spot light with some sort of remote on/off. I suppose the problem would be the power for whatever small motor would be required to maneuver the spotlight (if anyone even makes such equipment).

On my boat I rarely need a spotlight, so the number of uses would be small, but I'd sure like to have it when I want it. I wouldn't use it enough to justify running wires and all.


Yes, Golight makes number of wireless spotlights. (they start at about $500). It would be easy to mount a U1 (lawn tractor or even a small motor cycle battery) in a case with the light, and mount that on the bow railing with "U" bolts, thru the base. You could either charge the battery in place, or remove it for recharging.

see video of wireless remote
Probably could pair it with one of the lithium ion battery boosters made for the car or truck. I have see these used with the inflatable boat high pressure pumps.
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jkidd



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After using a Golight for a few years that I could remove from the bowrail and stow I have switched. I’m now using a 6 led off-road light I bought off of Amazon for 20 or 30 bucks for a pair. I put a ram ball on the bottom of it and got a ram claw mount. The claw mount will work on the bow rail or the radar arch or the Bimini for cleaning fish. I run the power across the deck through the center window and plug it in to the helm. I put it away when I dont need it. I have a hand held battery powered spot light for emergency’s that Jay turned me on too.
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hardee



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ssobol wrote:
Still have to run wires for the remote so you aren't avoiding anything. Mostly I use the spot light to tell if the anchor is dragging when anchored in the dark. Point it at some landmark and you can use it to see if you drift by switching on the light and seeing if the landmark is still in the beam.


This sounds OK until you figure in tidal currant and wind affect on the vessel. Even in good shelter, I find I get a 180 degree shift with the tidal rise and fall. That's on a mooring ball, or on anchor unless I have a stern anchor out or a shore tie. (Those two later mentions are very rare though).

I have found that I use my rechargeable handheld LED spot pretty effectively and not that much either. On my anchor checks during the night, most of the time there is enough light to see without the spot. I also keep my Garmin GPS anchor watch light set at the very minimum.

I think Starcraft Tom did a bow rail spot set up and documented it, but I didn't go looking. Best in your effort Terry.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon


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ssobol



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hardee wrote:
ssobol wrote:
Still have to run wires for the remote so you aren't avoiding anything. Mostly I use the spot light to tell if the anchor is dragging when anchored in the dark. Point it at some landmark and you can use it to see if you drift by switching on the light and seeing if the landmark is still in the beam.


This sounds OK until you figure in tidal currant and wind affect on the vessel. Even in good shelter, I find I get a 180 degree shift with the tidal rise and fall. That's on a mooring ball, or on anchor unless I have a stern anchor out or a shore tie. (Those two later mentions are very rare though).


We usually anchor in rivers. If the current changes by 180 deg then I've got bigger problems.
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ssobol



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GoLight makes a wireless remote controlled light. You could use that one with a battery and avoid running wires through the tubing. About $270.
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gulfcoast john



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hated the 4 remote controlled (1 wireless) I've had...always clunky, jerky movements, difficult to aim precisely. Bulbs broke with the vibrations of trailering, LEDs were dim. The motor movements are in the base are subject to water intrusion. Warranties were short for $500-$900 lights.
My handheld LED rechargeable 'lanterns' often had non-replaceable batteries that died in 4 years.
Finally settled on this US made, 1.2 lb waterproof Larson that is very rugged and tough compared to the $59 competition (but it's $159). Way brighter than any LED fixed mount or portable light I've seen, stick it out the window to spot nav aids in the rain while avoiding bowrail glare. Heaviest coil cord I've ever seen.

https://www.larsonelectronics.com/p-1711-6-million-candlepower-spotlight-with-handle-800-long-x-65-wide-spot-beam-12-24-volts-dc.aspx

I'll never go back to any fixed mount with the hassles of threading 8 conductor cables through and out the railings.
Works great for us, but we avoid boating at night.
A compromise to consider, though. Buy quality the first time, and you'll never be dissappointed.
Cheers!
John

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starcrafttom



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rock C I did this to the 22 I had. I drilled from inside the cabin up into the rail and then cut open the rail at the bow to run my wire. If I was doing it again I would remove the rail first or use a drill with a 90 elbow on it. You have to go thru the back up right of the railing as the front one does not connect to the main rail. Its welded to it but is not a passage way.
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Rock-C



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all for the input. I have drilled the rail next to the light. It went pretty easy. Ran a wire to the aft down tube to be sure it's clear. Now I'm drilling up from inside the boat. Not so easy. Slow going. After I get the wire ran, I plan to unbolt the base with the hole in It so I can re-bed with new calk. Thanks again .
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starcrafttom



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might want to use a dremil instead of a drill. Smaller and easier to control in the tight space. Drill a small hole first and then increase the size . Be careful not to drill up into the wall of the tubing ( dont ask) . because then you have to hire a welder to fix it.
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BTDT



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gulfcoast john wrote:
I hated the 4 remote controlled (1 wireless) I've had...always clunky, jerky movements, difficult to aim precisely. Bulbs broke with the vibrations of trailering, LEDs were dim. The motor movements are in the base are subject to water intrusion. Warranties were short for $500-$900 lights.
My handheld LED rechargeable 'lanterns' often had non-replaceable batteries that died in 4 years.
Finally settled on this US made, 1.2 lb waterproof Larson that is very rugged and tough compared to the $59 competition (but it's $159). Way brighter than any LED fixed mount or portable light I've seen, stick it out the window to spot nav aids in the rain while avoiding bowrail glare. Heaviest coil cord I've ever seen.

https://www.larsonelectronics.com/p-1711-6-million-candlepower-spotlight-with-handle-800-long-x-65-wide-spot-beam-12-24-volts-dc.aspx

I'll never go back to any fixed mount with the hassles of threading 8 conductor cables through and out the railings.
Works great for us, but we avoid boating at night.
A compromise to consider, though. Buy quality the first time, and you'll never be dissappointed.
Cheers!
John


I fully concur with Gulfcoastjohn's comments, but I have become a huge fan of LED's with their low power demands and significantly less heat output. I suggest also considering the Larson 6 million candlepower LED version at a slightly less price:

"6 Million Candlepower Rechargable LED Light Hunting Spotlight- 25 Watts - Pistol Style - Li-Ion Part # RL-85-LED-CPR Price: $146.25

The RL-85-LED-CPR 6 Million candlepower handheld spotlight from Larson Electronics is lightweight, ruggedly built, and features a rechargeable lithium ion battery and AC/DC charging adaptor for convenient recharging at home, on the worksite, or on the go. Designed for both functionality and convenience, the RL-85-LED-CPR allows operators to roam freely without the hassle of being plugged into a power source. This unit uses a premium Cree LED and a parabolic reflector to generate an impressive 2,000 lumens while drawing a modest 25 watts of power. This powerful IP65 rated spotlight is ideal for hunting, camping, marine and boating use as well as for first responders and emergency services"

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starcrafttom



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's funny that one person can want one thing for a reason but another does not want it for the exact opposite reason. I tried the hand held spot lights and found then useless for anything other then looking out the side at a 90 degree to the boat. I could never hold my hand far enough out the window to not get glare off the anchor and bow rail when looking forward. Not to mention the only having one hand to drive while sticking my hand and some times head out the window. The utter uselessness of the hand helds while piloting the boat is the reason I when to a mounted remote on the bow rail. I never had a problem with bulbs or a jerky movement. what brands did you use? It was a tad slow on the movement but not to the point of frustration.

its just funny that I got a rail light because of the problems of a hand held and you got a hand held because of the problems of a mounted light. Just goes to show that there is no perfect solution to any problem.
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