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Hull repair substance?
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san juanderer



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 234
City/Region: Stanwood
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1990
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Magic Fix for the DIY !
Presto and it all looks perfect .
Go right at it, I would like to see the DIY finished job.
Good Luck

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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4656
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

san juanderer wrote:
Magic Fix for the DIY !
Presto and it all looks perfect.


Laughing Like the magic scratch fixer for painted cars...WITH clear-coat! Uhm, no...


The guy at Boatworks Today does some cool stuff. I watched the video where he used an old hatch lid to make a mold then made new hatches. He made it look easy.

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no question that epoxy makes a secondary bond far better than polyester resin. Vinyl ester resin has a secondary bond between epoxy and polyester, and will have a better bond with Gel Coat. Yes, limited areas one can get good bonds with gel coats--and there area some tricks. Some use a "tie" primer.

I use epoxy when repairing a structural part, such as a hole in the bottom of the boat. But there is no problem with the strength of polyester when doing a cosmetic repair--that adherence is just not needed. I personally prefer to work with epoxy, but I suspect I have been working with fiberglass and polyester resin for longer than anyone else on the site: since I was responsible for the wooden boat repair at Camp Fox, Catalina Island, in 1952 when Glasspar left a half a dozen 12 foot fiberglass skiffs at the camp to test them out. They left me a gallon of resin, some MEKP and glass, mat and cloth, plus a 15 minute primer. I have built boats, as well done many repairs, including extensive repairs on boats with osmotic blistering.

You will find that virtually all good professionals will prefer to use only polyester products for a gel coat repair. Many will do so for full structural repairs also. The professional winces when they are brought a boat to repair which has had epoxy used--it will have to be all ground out for their repair.

I also second those who suggest that a good professional will get a better match than all than the most seasoned amateur. Matching white gel coat is not easy. You need pigments, a little brown, yellow and blue to get the correct C Dory match.

The depth of the void, will dictate if you will need to grind out a large area, or if just a limited repair will be fine. If you do have to lay up multiple concentric circles of mat/cloth to rebuild structural strength--then definitely grind. But if it is just a small area, where you can fill with chopped strands, and resin--then you may have sand a limited area. I would caution about ever using a substance such as "Bondo" on boats...not a good idea. Although I have used a thickened polyester as a fairing substance, I would not use it to fill a void. A true void needs fabric support.

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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
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Home port: Pensacola FL
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