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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4656
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My only complaint/concern about the Airtronic is the noise.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20815
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ordutch1975 wrote:
Maybe its the newer C-Dorys or something but my Venture is sealed tight - there is no air "leaking out" unless I open windows and the door


I cannot speak for the Venture series--but most of the C Dory line in the past have had several openings to fresh air--Anchor rode deck plates, or windlass, and on both sides between the cockpit and cabin on the outside of the aft bulkhead where the shifter, power, and other electrical cables (including transducer cables) have always allowed some air into the boat, even with doors and windows shut.

There are now anti fogging nano coating which are available. But glycerine or soap are cheaper...

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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
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Home port: Pensacola FL
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ken35216



Joined: 12 Mar 2013
Posts: 569
City/Region: Destin, Florida
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2017
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Lady Onyx
Photos: ken35216
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If there is any condescending on my boat I'll let the crew know right away , as captain, that the flogging will commence and continue until that "condescending attitude" goes away.

I've found it best for everyone involved if I run a tight ship!

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2007 25 Cruiser 150 Suzuki (2013-2016)

2017 25 Cruiser 200 Yamaha (2017-present)
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South of Heaven



Joined: 15 Aug 2015
Posts: 1459
City/Region: Sharon
State or Province: MA
Photos: Blue Water
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ken35216 wrote:
If there is any condescending on my boat I'll let the crew know right away , as captain, that the flogging will commence and continue until that "condescending attitude" goes away.

I've found it best for everyone involved if I run a tight ship!


Commence the flogging!! Sounds like a Monty Python episode!

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2005 Silverton 35 Motoryacht (Twin 385 Crusaders) (SOLD 6/20)

2000 Camano 31 Troll (Volvo TAMD41p) (SOLD 2/19)

2007 C Dory 25' Cruiser (200 hp Suzuki, sold 7/17)

2003 C Dory 19' Angler (80 hp Yamaha, sold 7/16)

1995 C Dory 16' Angler (40 hp Yamaha, sold 2/16)
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C-Dude



Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 89
City/Region: Anchorage
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2013
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Gryphon
Photos: C-Spirit
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ordutch1975 wrote:
I tried the RainX anti-fog - that was a waste of money. I think the Wallas heater (not stove top) will do well for my purposes with the positive airflow. Maybe its the newer C-Dorys or something but my Venture is sealed tight - there is no air "leaking out" unless I open windows and the door but who wants that when its below 40 degrees also I wonder if because the venture is so well insulated inside if the windows are the only place where the condensation can really stick that it accentuates the issue - lets put it this way on the way home with front hatch open and one side window I still had to wipe the windows. Yes I am spoiled but I like to be comfortable. To me this is essential for my boating pleasure. If it wasn't I would be like those crazy guys out there with open aluminum boats and 15 layers of clothing. More power to them but that is not enjoyable to me.

For me the boat is a camper on water - thats my primary purpose just to enjoy & explore and get out away from my desk.

I really appreciate everyones input - I don't understand why Espar doesn't use external air intakes vs recirculated air.

Thanks all for your great experience and insight!
H


My Espar D2 definitely has external fresh air intake, not recirculated intake. I just installed it this spring. It is a separate intake hose that is routed outside of the cabin and feeds into the intake on the heater..

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Ben

2013 C-Dory 22 Cruiser - sold
2006 North River 26 O/S
2004 Wooldridge Alaskan OB Jet
2001 C-Dory 22 Cruiser
1994 Weldcraft Jet boat
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AstoriaDave



Joined: 31 Oct 2005
Posts: 994
City/Region: Astoria
State or Province: OR
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ordutch1975 wrote:
I tried the RainX anti-fog - that was a waste of money. I think the Wallas heater (not stove top) will do well for my purposes with the positive airflow. Maybe its the newer C-Dorys or something but my Venture is sealed tight - there is no air "leaking out" unless I open windows and the door but who wants that when its below 40 degrees
H
In order for the warmed air to remove the moisture, you will have to have an opening for it to leave the cabin. If you opening a window, aft of the heater, just a crack, that should do it while under way. At anchor, select a window on the downwind side. If you do not do that, the moisture in the heated air has no way to leave.

Some folks put a small fan at the "exhaust" window and set it to blow air out of the cabin.

Providing a way for moist air to leave the cabin will also increase the inflow into the heater, thereby increasing its heating effect.

Just don't make the exhaust window opening huge.

Hope this helps.

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Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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Ordutch1975



Joined: 06 Jun 2017
Posts: 255
City/Region: Portland
State or Province: OR
Vessel Name: Boatless :-(
Photos: PennyBridge
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

C-Dude wrote:
My Espar D2 definitely has external fresh air intake, not recirculated intake. I just installed it this spring. It is a separate intake hose that is routed outside of the cabin and feeds into the intake on the heater..


Ok sorry was getting confused - apparently the espar temp sensor is in the unit not the remote which seems a bit whacky. So I guess the D2 vs the 22GB Wallas - which way would you go?

H

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Marco Flamingo



Joined: 09 Jul 2015
Posts: 1155
City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 16 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Limpet
Photos: Limpet
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Espar D2 can use outside air if you have the more expensive thermostat.
That would use all outside air, so it would be like heating your home using all cold air from outside. The cheapest Espar controller just measures return air temps. Because the CD 16 has plenty of air exchange even when closed up, the cheap control works for me.

You can see the different Espar controls here starting at 3:40.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guN0ZtemeO4

Mark
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4656
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm leaning towards the Wallas. Less amp draw, quieter...but more money.

One technical hurdle I have to overcome is the exhaust. I do not want to drill another hole, so I need to figure out a way to use the current hole (exhaust for our cooktop/heater combo) for the furnace. The issue is a minimum 12" from exhaust to the top of the exhaust hose is required. See below:

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album2748&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

This may not be possible, given the area under the sink vs the counter top vs the pre-existing hole. Rolling Eyes
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Ron on Meander



Joined: 17 Jun 2004
Posts: 561
City/Region: Powell River
State or Province: BC
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Meander
Photos: Meander
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
This may not be possible, given the area under the sink vs the counter top vs the pre-existing hole. Rolling Eyes

My Wallas 1800 is installed in the galley cabinet, to the left of the sink. I couldn't achieve the 12" loop either, but I did it anyway. The exhaust tube goes as high as possible until it hits the underside of the counter top. It does not make a twelve inch elevation change. Probably only 8-10. It has had no problem in the 10 years its been installed. Its often running when the boat is crashing through some rough going and I've not had it either go out or seen any corrosion problems yet. Knock on wood.
Cheers
Ron
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Aurelia



Joined: 21 Aug 2009
Posts: 2331
City/Region: Gig Harbor
State or Province: WA
Photos: Aurelia
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The manual for the 22 model states one primary guiding statement that leads the 12in loop drawing in significance. They say the top of the loop has to always be above the water. On many boats, that is likely possible with less than a 12in rise. Especially if your through hull outlet is also elevated above the water line to begin with and you are not a healing/sailing vessel.

Greg

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capt. meares



Joined: 04 Jul 2013
Posts: 146
City/Region: Tillamook
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 1988
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Vianey
Photos: Vianey
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have never understood why so many people are so willing to pay 4K for a heater that is famous for never working. I have been using a mr buddy heater for the last three years. It will heat you out of the cabin, Makes no noise, and starts easily every time. (And yes it is approved for indoor use.) Originally bought it just to get me through the winter until I could afford a better option. Now I don't know if I will ever get rid of it. I built a wooden tray to keep it under the bed where it fits perfectly and stays out of the way and never moves.
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Aurelia



Joined: 21 Aug 2009
Posts: 2331
City/Region: Gig Harbor
State or Province: WA
Photos: Aurelia
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The small 1300 Wallas unit runs about 1500 dollars and many folks have installed other forced air units for less than 1k. We also have a buddy type heater and it was nice added warmth on our lund but is just not in the same league as forced air heat in an enclosed pilot house.

If you are pretty happy with the buddy for your needs, stick with it and be sure to ventilate the interior space your are heating to stay safe. Once you experience the heat of one of the pricier units. It is hard to go back.

Greg
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beermanPDX



Joined: 01 Feb 2012
Posts: 261
City/Region: Portland
State or Province: OR
Photos: Jean Marie
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The issue with the Mr Buddy and other propane / alcohol heaters is that it adds considerable water vapor to the cabin. It made my window condensation problem worse.

The webasto I added to my CD25 was, by far, the best investment I made in that boat. That heater coupled with two overhead console mounted fans ended the window condensation problems for good.

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Rob
2008 25 Cruiser - Sold
2002 Nordic Tug 32/4 - Sold
1989 40 Tollycraft Sport Sedan
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AstoriaDave



Joined: 31 Oct 2005
Posts: 994
City/Region: Astoria
State or Province: OR
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What Rob said about Mr Buddy and similar propane fired heaters which exhaust combustion products into the cabin. In a mild climate, the excess water vapor may not be an issue. In a cold climate, window condensation is going to be much worse than any other choice.

Capt. Meares is on the coast of OR, near me, where a cold day in winter is around 40 or so. And, I bet there are a lot of windows open for safe venting.

I use mr. Buddy style heaters in my boat shed, which has no insulation, and lots of venting through the open soffit vents. They work well there. I like them for that use.
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