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upper carrier housing - Yamaha

 
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jbdba01



Joined: 18 Nov 2014
Posts: 169

State or Province: FL
PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 5:40 am    Post subject: upper carrier housing - Yamaha Reply with quote

I saw that there was a lower housing discussion here, and figured I would add my recent upper bearing housing experience on a 2001 Yamaha 150 HPDI. I looked at the seals while replacing the water pump and saw the tell-tale milky fluid.

In terms of difficulty - 10 being take it to a pro, this was a 7; challenging, but doable. Just take your time.

I used this video to get (no pun intended) my bearings...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IAmkvhmCqM&t=1173s

He uses a fancy gizmo to get the housing off. When I purchased my parts I was able to get 5 min with my local mechanic. Basically if you get two screw drivers under opposite corners you can twist the housing a bit and then pry up. Worked for me like a champ. Once you do it you'll see what I mean. The key is the twisting motion. Easier done than explained.

He mentions using a chisel to get the seal out - I would try just about anything first. That said at the end I ended up using a chisel - it took some serious pounding to get it out and once I saw the price of the housing ($90) I figured "WTH - go for it. Worst case scenario replace the whole thing."
Regardless with some persuasion the seals eventually came out.

The video does a good job of explaining things - there's a waterpump video that I referenced as well, but that one is simple enough - the woodruff key being the headache.

Here's some pics of the effort, and the oil was milky, but had a reasonable amount of viscosity in it.

When I replaced the lower unit oil I kept adding oil until all milky residue was gone.

I just ordered a mityvac 8500 to pressure test the seals - should be 10psi and hold. I'll add that effort to the thread. This one has the pressure AND vacuum seal check.

Confirmation that it's bad...



Housing unscrewed and seals out



Housing cleaned up



Buttoned up...


Some parts needed, seals labeled for next motor.
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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 4131
City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
Photos: BrentB
PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

neat and good job
Did it fail the pressure, vacuum or both tests?

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Brent Barrett
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jbdba01



Joined: 18 Nov 2014
Posts: 169

State or Province: FL
PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BrentB wrote:
neat and good job
Did it fail the pressure, vacuum or both tests?


Mityvac comes in tomorrow. I'll post results after the tests.
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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
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City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. I missed that point,

What fitting are you using in drain hole? The fitting from fluid pump?
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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
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City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
Photos: BrentB
PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great video! thanks
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jbdba01



Joined: 18 Nov 2014
Posts: 169

State or Province: FL
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BrentB wrote:
Thanks. I missed that point,

What fitting are you using in drain hole? The fitting from fluid pump?


Correct - I'll take pics. I believe that the Mityvac I ordered has a set of adapters. Might have to rig up something, but Lowes/Ace/Home Depot should have the tubing/clamps I need.

I found the original pic that started the effort...it started with a simple "Hey...let's replace that water pump." Classic boat project - you find one thing then another...to look at that part it's about as simple as it gets. When replacing the water pump just look under the housing plate and seal protector - course you'll have to get that woodruff key out to get there. I had to dremel and awl it out - about 20 min of work. No torches/heat.

This is what started things



BTW - I think this was the culprit; it appears to me they dry started the engine and heated things up enough to melt the water pump housing. Old vs. new.

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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 4131
City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
Photos: BrentB
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks, great pics

Does it have a drive shaft bushing? With age they become noisy
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jbdba01



Joined: 18 Nov 2014
Posts: 169

State or Province: FL
PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BrentB wrote:
thanks, great pics

Does it have a drive shaft bushing? With age they become noisy


Yes - that pic shows her down to the housing - lots of parts in between.
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jbdba01



Joined: 18 Nov 2014
Posts: 169

State or Province: FL
PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well...finally got things together and everything checked out. I used the oil pump that I use for the gear oil to pressure check the new seals. When I pressure checked the gizmo it was leaking air all over the place - right where the metal met the plastic. I redneck engineered that with a bit of Teflon tape.

Put the plug in place to the lower unit and lo and behold she held steady at 10psi.

While undoing the lower screw I noticed more milky oil - seems I didn't flush the lower unit well enough. So after several more attempts I buttoned her up. There's a touch more in there but I'll try again next time. I tried everything to get it all out, but eventually threw in the towel and was down to just a couple drops.

Time to get her on the water...and on to the next project.

Photos follow:

Mityvac with oil pump attachment (teflon tape to mate plastic to metal - eliminates air leak)


Attached to lower unit (found out that on a Yamaha you can mate to the top "Oil Level" screw as well)



Holding steady at 10 psi



Dang...more milky stuff...flush sevral more times.



The list of doom...
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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
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City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
Photos: BrentB
PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks
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