Need Advice! Anchor / Running Light Breaker Keeps Tripping

[Pat Anderson]

Maybe there is nothing I can do here, but I am asking anyway. We are anchored at Lloyd Creek off the Sassafras River waiting out the Small Craft Advisories that have been in effect on the Chesapeake Bay. Last night the mother of all electrical storms passed over us - impressive and entertaining. After the storm passed, I tried to put the anchor light on - the breaker kept tripping. It trips on the running light side of the switch as well. Any suggestions about what I might look for to fix this, even a temporary fix until we can get to Cape May if we need a marine electrician? Thanks.

[Ferg]

I would try to isolate (disconnect) the wires one at a time to each of the three lamps, and then see which one is causing the circuit to pop. Then diagnose from there.

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Pat, look at the back of the switch. If the 25 is like the 22, there is a chance that something could get pushed into the cover area and cause a short to ground.

I will give you a call.

[BrentB]

m2cw

go on top
turn switch off
inspect light
remove light housing to access bulb
check bulb, socket wiring
remove bulb
inspect socket
switch on
check voltage at socket

[Pat Anderson]

OK, we SEEM to be back in business here! After chatting with Steve Parsons I localized the problem to either the anchor light or the socket. When I pulled the anchor light out of the socket, the breaker stayed on in both switch positions. They both had rust and corrosion. I don't have the stuff to clean them properly, but I did the best I could (scraped with a crab pick and wiped out with a paper towel!), and now the breaker does not trip and the anchor light stays on. Not sure how to really clean this thoroughly, but I suspect it will involve some fine sandpaper. I have always had sandpaper in my tool bag, but somehow I didn't bring any for the Loop. That will get corrected at the next opportunity. I also wonder if spraying some WD40 down the socket and wiping it out or dielectric grease might help? Anyway, thanks all!

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Pat, I'm not a fan of WD 40, but it will be an ok temporary fix. Per my text, go to a NAPA store and get some fine emory cloth (better than sandpaper), some connection grease, and a can of compressed air to blow out anything that needs it.

I'm glad you found the problem!!

[localboy]

Clean all contacts until shiny, blow clean, cover in dielectric grease. You can find it at any decent auto parts store. Comes either in paste consistency (think Vaseline) or a spray. Glad you figured it out.

[thataway]

Glad you got it fixed!. We had a person with a "new" 22, who had the same problem at the Hontoon gathering. I agree with Steve--another option is carrying wet and dry sandpaper, if you don't have emery cloth.

I also like corrosion block, which is a thick greasy spray. It is great for any item you want to avoid corrosion on. (including the motor).

[Marco Flamingo]

I think that my anchor post fitting is the standard C-Dory issue which uses a threaded rod for the anchor post. That fitting isn't really waterproof and salt spray is going to cause a problem sooner or later. I don't leave my anchor light up when not in use. I think that these came with a plastic cap to fit over the stub when the anchor light wasn't in use. Mine was apparently lost before I got the boat, so I just looked through my junk drawer (actually a giant junk locker) for a replacement. What I found was a package of table leg tips, sometimes called a "crutch tip." Mine were "white" but actually were cream colored and matched the C-Dory gel coat. A 1 inch rubber tip makes a nice waterproof fit and I have three spares. Available at any hardware store.

Mark