My Mechanic's suggestions - looking for validation

[Westie]

Hi,
I have a 2006 Tomcat with twin Suzuki DF140s. This weekend I had a mechanic out and he gave me a lot of great advice. There were a few things that I wanted to post here and get some advice.

1) He hated my 'Optima Blue Top Marine Deep Cycle Batteries'. He felt that these types of batteries had amperage variation and Suzuki's don't handle that well. The batteries are from 2014. Anyone else heard this?

2) He did not like that I leave my battery charger on when in the marina as stated in the Owner Manual. The only thing running on battery are the bilge pumps. He basically said it wasn't doing anything. Thoughts?

3) My starboard wiper isn't able to make a full stroke anymore. He said I need a new motor assembly. Anyone else have these go out?

4) Last one, I need to replace a bilge pump. He suggested a Rule-Mate Automatic 1100 but was comfortable with others. Anyone have an opinion here?

[hardee]

Not a mechanic here (by any means) so I'll pass on most of your questions, but ....

I would go with a bigger bilge pump. I guess it depends on where it is, how many you have but, (and I am a succor for duplicite redundancy), in the bilge pump department, a belt and suspenders can't hurt.

I would go with as large a pump as you can fit into the spot. On my 22, I switched out the aft pump for a 1500, and put the 1100 into the spot under the door step, where there had been a 500 (or 750, I can't remember which now), but you get the idea.

Harvey
SleepyC

[Kushtaka]

I've definitely had my bilge pump run my battery out and had quite a bit of water to deal with after, but she stayed floating thanks to the harbormaster!!

But that's on a 22 cruiser, which is a bathtub. Your tomcat should drain most of the rainwater through its scuppers.

[Westie]

I currently have two 1100's; one on the starboard bilge and one in the port bilge. I'm only replacing the port because the dealer who sold the boat to me replaced this without a float switch.

[Marco Flamingo]

I went with a semi-brand X pump that has good reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098ZSOX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


It's a 2000 gph pump at 1/2 the price of the RuleMate 1100, but it doesn't come with a float switch, it needed larger gauge wire, and I upgraded to smooth-wall hose for the install to actually get closer to the advertised gph rating. I consider it a better overall system and I was still under the cost of just the RuleMate 1100 pump (my original was a Rule 500 gph).

It went off once while towing and shot water clear across a lane of traffic (without incident).

Mark

[hardee]

If it is a "Rule Automatic" you shouldn't need a float switch. There is some difference as to the switch control, whether it senses the water via an electronic sensor or a built in float. Rule changed some of their pumps so that they will sense water, but if there is oil in it the pump will not come on. Nice for the EPA, bad for your boat if there happens to be some oil mixed in with the 300 gallons of water that came on board all of a sudden.

It may be better to go with a float controlled switch than a sensor type. Just my opinion, so YMMV.

Harvey
SleepyC

[BTDT]

I disagree with your mechanic on the AGM battery in your boat. There is considerable confusion over Gel cell versus AGM. Although your optima batteries have the six pack look of a gel cell they are advertised by their manufacturer as Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM). As the head of factory warranty and service for a major RV manufacturer my experience with AGM batteries has been excellent, unlike our warranty experience with Gel cells.

Gel cells batteries generally excel in slow discharge rates and high ambient heat, while AGM batteries have much the same charging profiles as their liquid electrolyte brothers. The major difference in AGM being the electrolyte is in a gel solution, the plates are thinner, and the batteries can be used in multiple positions except for directly inverted.

If you choose to use Gel cells in your vehicle or boat I also recommend adding a special regulator to avoid charging issues.

[BTDT]

I also must disagree with your mechanic on not leaving your charger plugged in. I assume your Tomcat is like mine and uses a Guest battery charger that has a maintenance mode that prevents overcharging of batteries.

I personally would much prefer to find my two outboards above the water, with the bilge pump still running, versus replacing a couple of batteries because of an errant battery charger.

On a side note I am very pleased with my new ProNautic 40 amp charger and four AGM deep cycle battery setup.

[SEA3PO]

My boat came with some sort of automatic bilge pump that was wired directly to the batteries...it cycled... checked the water every 10 minutes or so, then would go off...I did not know... it drained my batteries when the boat was in storage... I dumped the pump and installed a regular bilge pump with a normal float switch....when I rewired the boat I mounted a switch on the dash...I now have one pump just aft of the cabin and one pump between the fuel tanks in that well...works fine

Joel
SEA3PO

[Westie]

Thanks for the advice.

My mechanic thought the batteries we gel cell so I'm feeling better about them! I bought them based off a recommendation from another mechanic and didn't do any research.

[rogerbum]

[JamesTXSD]

Good advice here on the batteries and charger.

I have replaced three windshield wipers, and in each case, it started with the sweep lessening. The gear that controls that is plastic (no rebuild kit that I am aware of), and seems to be a weak point. The failure came each time not long after the diminishing sweep.

With all three motors, I had to cut off the wiper assembly from the shaft - the metal in the assembly had fused to the shaft. Just a heads up for what may be necessary when it comes time to replace. I did put white grease on the shaft after each replacement, but it didn't seem to make a difference - still had to cut.

Hope that helps.